Kitchens

The kitchen is a room you will tend to spend a lot of time in, especially if you are the main chef in your household. Make sure you are comfortable with your chosen colour scheme, as you will probably spend a significant amount of time surrounded by it. Bright, invigorating colour schemes can boost energy levels when you have a lot of cooking and cleaning to get through.

As kitchen walls tend to be dominated by cabinetry, benches and the floor, treat these elements as the starting point for your colour scheme.

The appearance of colours in the kitchen will depend on the properties and textures of each of the surfaces. Glossy surfaces, such as Melteca cabinetry, will reflect more light and look different than low-sheen painted walls, so it is important to be careful when trying to match colours in different materials. Sometimes it is better to select a tone lighter or darker, rather than trying to create an exact colour match.

Remember no matter what room you are decorating, artificial lighting can be used very successfully to complement your colour scheme and it is worth reviewing your lighting plan prior to painting.

Living Rooms
Today’s living rooms are often open spaces that link through to dining and kitchen areas. Knowing where to start and finish the colour scheme between each part of an open plan space can be very difficult. There are two techniques that you can use:

Paint a feature wall in an area between the two adjoining rooms/spaces to create a natural colour break.

Use a progression of colours, then paint a unifying colour throughout the spaces and accent with the other progressional colours.

Living rooms are the ideal place to create focal points or feature walls. Traditionally fireplaces act as the focal point of most living rooms. If you don’t have a fireplace, select a focal point for your room and decorate around that. The focal point may be a feature wall, lounge suite or something similar.

As living rooms are usually subjected to less wear and tear than family rooms, you can choose light and dark colours if desired.

Bedrooms
When selecting colours for bedrooms, it is important to choose colours that are conducive to sleeping. You are also likely to spend more time looking at the ceiling than you would in other rooms.

As a general rule, you should avoid using very bright colours here and save them for other parts of your home. Most light and pastel shades are ideal for bedrooms. Blue is a popular colour choice for bedrooms because of its soothing qualities. However, if you have trouble getting up in the morning, you may wish to add an invigorating accent to get you out of bed.

Bathrooms

Bathrooms are one of the smallest rooms in the house and are generally cluttered with towel rails, basins and showers/baths. While this can make them a decorator’s nightmare, it also means you can afford to be a little more courageous with colour. If your original colour choice doesn’t work, you can always repaint a small bathroom quickly.

Chris Paulsen cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com

Drywall is durable but it is also very susceptible to scratches, dings, cracks, dents and holes, especially from door handles when they are flung open and there is no door stopper installed. These can be easily repaired; many hardware and home improvement stores have drywall repair kits that you can purchase. Below, you will find some simple instructions to help you make those little repairs go more smoothly.Use this list of household materials when repairing a small hole in your drywall:
· 1” Putty knife
· String and wire
· Drywall saw (steak knife works too)
· Tape measure
· Sandpaper
· Scrap wood
· Tin lid from can
· Drywall mud
· Primer and brush
· Drill and ¾ mm drill bit

To make a repair to a small drywall hole without a kit, follow these directions:

Step 1: Prepare tin can lid that is at least 1 1/2 inches more in diameter than hole in drywall for backing piece. Use a drill and bit to punch holes in the lid. Measurement of hole plus both narrow slits should equal diameter of lid so you can insert lid sideways into hole.

Step 2: Use the string and thread it through the 2 holes.

Step 3: Using a wire, slide the tin lid through the hole. While holding the wire, pull lid in your direction until the lid is flat against inside of wall. To hold in place, set stick of scrap wood over hole on outside of wall and twist wire tightly over stick. Can lid should be held firmly against inside of wall.

Step 4: Apply the drywall mud with the 1” putty knife over patch. Spread the compound into hole against backing and behind stick. Make sure the drywall mud is inside hole, covering the back and fills the slits. Please do not fill the entire area, but rather leave it just under leveled. Leave the patch for about 24 hours and make sure it is completely dry (turns white). Cut the string and remove the wood.

Step 5: Now you can finish the patch completely by filling it in with more drywall mud until level with the wall. Please allow another 24 hours to dry, lightly sand and then prime it with the brush.

By Chris Paulsen cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com

Believe it or not, the concept of indoor lighting has been around since 70,000 B.C.E., when our ancestors used shells and rocks filled with animal fat to create oil lamps for illuminating their caves. Torches made of bundled sticks became the first portable lamps, and by the 7th century B.C.E. the Greeks had refined the idea, making lamps of terracotta in stylized designs to light their homes and indoor spaces.

We’ve come a long way since then, and today the choice of fixtures available to light our homes and offices is almost limitless. From recessed cans and track lighting to wall sconces and chandeliers, indoor fixtures perform a host of functions and come in an array of styles—each suited to serve specific purposes. Because there is such a variety of lighting available to us, it is important to understand how each type works and, more importantly, how they can all work together to create a warm, inviting and well-lit environment. That is why lighting design is so essential.

It’s All in the Design
Most of us are familiar with “interior design,” “fashion design” and even “landscape design,” but somehow “lighting design” is always left out of the picture. Yet, design is exactly what you need when choosing fixtures for your home. Lighting design can make all the difference in how your home functions and feels; it can dramatically alter the appearance of your décor and transform a glare-filled, uniformly lit living space into a soothing and stunning showpiece.

Lighting design goes far beyond choosing appealing fixtures and plugging them in—and it certainly extends beyond direct lighting. At its most basic, lighting design involves employing different light levels that work together to highlight unique features of each room and address specific illumination requirements.

“If all I have is direct light, spaces are dark and gloomy,” says Al Thomas, Executive Director of Seattle Lighting Design Services. If the light level is uniform or only comes from one source, rooms will appear flat and even the most gorgeous custom spaces will wind up looking dull and uninviting. “If you uniformly light the room, nothing will stand out,” Thomas warns. He insists that rooms require “visual drama” and that in order to create it, “you must have contrast.”

Visual Drama and Contrast
Creating contrast is the main goal of lighting design and is achieved by introducing varying degrees (also known as layers) of light into each room: ambient, task and accent. For example, in a dining room a chandelier could provide the ambient light, while a recessed halogen could serve as a task light that highlights a centerpiece, and wall sconces could provide accent lighting for a buffet.

Though ambient light serves as the general room light, it should not be the primary source of illumination. Instead, ambient light sources should be contrasted by brighter task and accent lights, which provide targeted, more powerful illumination for specific purposes. Primary light sources should be task lights that are 6-10 times the ambient light level; secondary sources should be accent lights that are 3-5 times the ambient level. These layers will vary depending on the individual and the unique attributes of specific rooms, such as room size, ceiling height, architectural features, décor, bulb strength, the amount of natural light available and space utilization.

A common mistake is using decorative fixtures, like chandeliers, as primary light sources. Used this way they burn too brightly, become overpowering and all aesthetic value is lost because they turn into what Thomas terms “glare bombs.” He cautions, “Never use decorative fixtures as primary light sources; they are ‘look and feel’ items, pure and simple.”

Where to Begin
To create visual drama in your home, begin by determining each room’s function and composition. Ask these questions:

How much ambient light do you need?
What unique features do you want to highlight?
What tasks are you performing in that room?
What types of lights are feasible from an architectural point of view?

For the last question, you will need to determine whether or not the ceiling is insulated (this will determine what types of recessed lights are possible, if you choose to use them), how high the ceilings are, and what the wall and room textures are comprised of. For example, if you have a brick fireplace with a lot of depth and character, you may want to highlight its unique texture by grazing it with an angled track or recessed light, rather than by pointing a light directly on it from a close distance, as is commonly done. Direct lights will actually flatten and detract from highly textured surfaces, whereas lights that gently graze the surface will bring out the contours and add contrast and dramatic effect.

Once you have determined which types of lighting you need, you can begin shopping to match your décor. Typical ambient, task and accent lights break down as follows:

Ambient Chandeliers, recessed lights, table lamps, ceiling lights, pendants
Task Reading lamps, spot lights, track lights, recessed lights, table lamps
Accent Sconces, torchieres, table lamps, recessed lights, rail lights, pendants

Clearly, most lighting forms can be used for a variety of applications. Room function will by and large determine which types of fixtures are best suited for each layer but much is dependent upon the light bulbs used with them. Good lighting design incorporates the best combination of light forms that will add contrast and create visual intrigue without producing overpowering glare.

Recessed Lights
These days, recessed lights are one of the most common design elements in new and remodeled homes, yet they remain poorly utilized. “The biggest mistake today with custom homes is the excessive use of recessed cans,” Thomas says. He insists that rows of recessed lights are neither aesthetically pleasing nor economical. Further, the type of bulb, beam spread, can and trim color and size all have an impact on the function of the light and overall lighting design—factors most people do not even consider.

The subject of recessed lighting is so complex and important that the topic must be addressed separately but, briefly, here are some basic facts and myth busters to keep in mind when using these lights in your design scheme:

The fewer recessed lights, the better (contrary to current new home construction trends)
Cans and Trim that are shiny actually produce less glare
Cans and trim that are matte and white produce the most glare
Gold trim only works with a warm color palette
Black trim—known as “Alzak”—makes the light an inconspicuous background light and enables all other light sources in the room to stand out
For non-insulated ceilings, cans can be deeper
For insulated ceilings, use double-walled cans to prevent fire
Be sure all cans are safe yet deep enough to accommodate bulbs—you don’t want bulbs flush with the opening or they will produce glare and defeat the purpose of having a recessed light

Energy Concerns
As you think about creating contrast and visual drama with your lighting design, consider the most energy efficient and cost effective ways to achieve your goals. As Thomas notes, your goal should be to have fewer fixtures and use ones that are more energy-efficient. Although the initial cost of bulbs and housings may be more, Thomas insists that by purchasing energy-efficient products, you will save both time and money in the long run. First, you won’t have to change bulbs as often, and second, by having fewer fixtures that produce as much light as their energy-devouring counterparts, you will save money.
According to a study in Home Energy magazine, 75% of residential energy costs are produced by less than 30% of the fixtures. To reduce such disproportionate energy consumption, halogen and fluorescent lights are a great alternative to incandescent bulbs. Thomas recommends the BT-15, which can be used in place of most incandescent bulbs and is made by a host of manufacturers. In California, fluorescents are now mandated under Title 24, and many states will soon follow suit. Therefore, making the switch now to energy efficient bulbs and fixtures will save you the cost of replacing or retrofitting in the future.
Lumens vs. WattsTo find energy efficient light bulbs, look for the amount of lumens the bulb emits, as opposed to wattage. A lumen is a measurement of light output, whereas a watt is a measurement of energy consumption. Today, manufacturers are required to list lumens on the package so that you can compare bulbs more accurately. The most energy efficient offerings will be lower watt, higher lumen bulbs—these will yield the greatest savings without sacrificing light output.
Once you’ve found the best bulbs, you can match them to the appropriate fixtures. This may seem counter-intuitive, but by working backwards you will ensure that you install energy efficient light sources. You can also look for the Energy Star® seal, which appears on fixtures that meet federal government efficiency standards.

Added Value
As you’ve discovered so far, a little lighting design goes a long way. First, you add visual intrigue to your home which will transform it into a comfortable, captivating showplace. Next, you save money and energy by using fewer, more efficient light sources. And, finally, you can add value to your home which may give you a competitive advantage when you are selling or re-appraising.

According to a survey of realtors, homebuyers respond positively to homes that are well lit—particularly remodels that are in new housing markets. Some suggest that a well-designed lighting scheme could give you a competitive advantage and make your home stand out in the crowd.

We’ve come a long way since the days of burning oil lamps in caves, and as fixtures and homes have evolved, so has the importance of lighting design. It has become a vital part of interior design and, while experts are certainly available to help you, lighting design is a creative process that we can all master. So, take full advantage of the innovative, cost effective options available and make your home the 21st century marvel it can be.

Post courtesy of Destination Lighting

Purchasing a new carpet for your home is not an easy decision and can be a large investment. There are several options that you will need to consider such as types and colors. Depending on the types of carpet you choose, you should be able to find the perfect one for nearly any setting.

Cut Pile

One of the most popular types of carpet is textured cut pile, as it is less resistant to crushing than other types of carpet. Cut looped carpet fibers create a cut pile with yarn bundles standing straight. Preshearing cut pile several times creates a luxurious appearance.

Loop Carpet

Loop carpet is a favorite in many houses, condos and apartments for high-traffic areas. It is also called “level loop” because it is made of loops that are all the same height. The loop heights are high and uncut, creating a level, tougher surface that is much more resistant to wear and tear, to footprints and streaks from vacuuming.

Cut And Loop

Another popular type of carpet in homes is cut and loop. This carpet uses different heights of loops, cutting some and leaving some uncut to create different textures and patterns. Cut and loop carpet is used for lower-traffic areas, as it does not hold up to streaks and marks. It is, however, a supple, more attractive carpet, making it perfect for living areas.

Saxony

A Saxony style carpet is very comfy and elastic, although the display can be deceptive. This appearance is developed by rigidly crafted twirls of thick twine that are fused with heat. Since Saxony is made from thick threads, it is heavy, warm and a popular selection for your home.

Berber

Berber carpets are becoming more popular than any other type of carpet. Berbers eliminate any footprints and vacuum tracks. Berber has a thicker surface than most other level loop pile carpets for high durability. Because the loops are thicker and higher, they tend to keep dirt and become damaged from snags.

Velvet

Velvet carpet is shredded several times to develop a satin-like shimmer. Velvets are elegant carpets where each tread will appear. The Velvet is created and designed with shapes and colors to accent your home and personal taste. Be sure to check out Simple Floors , offering a multitude of flooring options.

Chris Paulsen cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com

Hardwood floors can turn your house into a home. In high traffic areas, make sure that you regularly maintain them to keep looking new.

Hardwood floors can be installed anywhere in your house, on concrete, plywood, or over existing floors. However, I would not recommend this, as it adds weight to your joists. All wood subfloors must be screwed in place before you install. While you are doing this, use a level to insure that floor is even throughout.

After the subfloor is installed, make sure that the surface is sanded and smooth.Once the subfloor is in place, sanded, smoothed or filled to provide a level, even surface, installation of the boards can begin. Some manufacturers recommend using a foam underlay that is placed on top of the subfloor and underneath the new floor. This helps minimize creeks and noise from the new floor.

Some Install Tips

When you are deciding where to start your install, use a focal point of the room, such as a mantel.

Before laying the first board, draw a line to use as a reference point. In this installation, a manufacturer’s recommended underlayment is placed on top of the subfloor.

Level the first row of planks with the draw line to make sure that all following planks will be aligned.

Before you nail in the planks to the subfloor, map out the area like a jigsaw puzzle. Fit the boards, making sure that the planks fit together and they are staggered with at least 12 inches between one another.

Blind nailing tongue-and-groove boards hides nails. Nails should be driven through one board’s groove, and hidden by the next parallel board. With other installs, nails are hammered through the face of the board, a process called top nailing. Planks can be glued together as well.

Choosing the Right Home Inspector is Crucial

Having a home inspected prior to its purchase has become the norm over the past ten years. Real estate agents advise vendors to have the home inspected before they list it, and purchasers to get one done and have it as a condition of purchase when buying. But all home inspectors are not created equally, and it’s imperative for the person shopping for one to do their homework.

A home inspector typically charge from $200 – $500 and usually take about 3 hours for the average home. Make sure that they have some experience in residential homes, especially ones in the area that you looking to purchase or sell.

When I purchased my first home (15 years ago), I was referred to a home inspector by my real estate agent and used them prior to my purchase. He did a fair job, pointed out several areas that needed improvement, such as the roof and electrical. However, there was some things that he did not pick up on because the factors were not visible.

When I took possession of my home, I started renovating right away, basically replacing run-down existing areas. When I tore the carpet off the stairs, I was startled to see 3 of the stairs fall away straight down to the basement. The stairs were in such bad state that I had to replace them, costing me $3000. Also, after ripping down some walls, we found asbestos paper wrapped around the old duct work of the house.

Expect the unexpected and above all, go along during the entire inspection and ask questions – it’s your home! Make sure that they give you a detailed list at the end of the inspection outlining what they found, what was not found and recommendations for repairs. For more information check out Pillar To Post, a professional home inspection company.
Chris Paulsen cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com

A waterproof system will protect your home from cracks caused by water, settling and expansion/shrinkage in the summer and winter. Over 40% of new homes have water problems within the first three years after construction. By law, builders only have to provide a two-year warranty, so be sure to check the fine print of your purchasing agreement.

Water damage only gets worse the longer that you leave it. Water leaks will penetrate your foundation, slip into cracks and slowly break them down — something people often forget is that concrete is porous. Although it is expensive to repair, the value of your house will drop a lot farther in price if there is water damage. Another factor that water damage brings is mold, which can create possible health hazards for you and your family.

Any new residential construction can be waterproofed the right way because the foundation is exposed. The most cost-effective way is to spray a rubberized coating onto the exterior walls. This fills in all the areas of the walls and acts as a membrane, keeping water out. It can be done by the ‘do it yourselfer‘, but you need to do your homework and seek some expert advice beforehand. Other products include cementitious and sheet membranes, hot tar or bentonite. Make sure you get several quotes and recommendations in regards to the leakage.

Lock bumping has been around since the early 1950s. Burglars use a filed-down key, which works on almost ANY lock. It can be slid into any tumbler lock, because it has no grooves, and the lock is bumped to allow the key to catch and open the lock. An experienced burglar can gain entry into your house in seconds! After the thief inserts the key, he bumps the door repeatedly while trying to turn the key, the tumblers fall into place quickly and allow the key to turn and the lock to open.

When considering door locks for your home, you need to do some research. Less expensive locks tend to be break when a burglar ‘bumps’ them and will not allow a key to turn them at all – meaning you won’t be able to get in either. The higher-end locks have been found to be more vulnerable because they have been manufactured to higher standards, allowing keys to slide in and out more easily.

A consideration is purchasing Bump Proof locks. I recently went to Home Depot and I was able to find about 30 different kinds, but be warned, they are not cheap! You could also consider adding a deadbolt to your door, which is harder to crack. Also consider having a locksmith visit your home and assess your current lock. He or she will be able to help and offer any recommendations that are required.

Having a home security system will also help deter any would-be thieves. I had my house broken into two years ago — they smashed my back door window and gained entry from there. It was a good thing that I had home insurance, so please make sure that you have that taken care of too.

One of the biggest problems found to when roofs leak, and walls and basements overflow is the fact the people neglect their gutters. Leafs, dirt and small branches clog up eaves troughs and downspouts, which prevents water from flowing through them. This build-up tends to overflow, often damaging a person’s home.

Here are some simple instructions on how to clean your own gutters;

1. Use a ladder to access the gutters, and make sure you have another person to keep the ladder in place and spot you. Bring along an empty bucket with rope tied to it, so you can dispose of the debris in the gutter safely, rather then dropping it all to the ground and having to do a second clean up. You can use the rope to lower the bucket down to your partner, who can empty it when it’s full and you can safely pull it back up. Also, do not rest the ladder up against any gutters as they will bend and cause damage to them.

2. Use a small gardening shovel to scoop the debris into your bucket. You might also want to bring along your garden hose to spray out small dirt.

3. Using the garden hose, spray the opening portions of your down spouts to ensure that they are clear and clean. You can also use a Shop-Vac at the bottom to help suck out any loose debris.

Using a mesh cover over your gutters will help block out 90% of falling leafs and twigs, and also allows a clean rain flow off of your roof. This is especially important in the winter, as the gunk in your eaves troughs will block water, which will freeze and weigh down your gutters, causing considerable damage.

The debris from your gutters also makes excellent compost, so use it to your advantage, rather then tossing it in a garbage bag and putting it on the curb.

Purchasing a home is a major decision that requires careful consideration. Before jumping into the latest home bidding war after falling in love with a home, here are some things to consider:

1. Curb Appeal – The first impression that your home makes on visitors and maybe potential buyers one day is crucial in the price of your investment. This first impression is referred to as curb appeal and is one area often overlooked by home buyers.

2. How does the frontage size compare to others on the street? This is also an important consideration. If you have a very narrow lot that is sandwiched between two large lots, your house may eventually be dwarfed when two large homes are built on either side. Resale value will be drastically diminished.

3. Does the house have an eat-in kitchen? Forget TV dinners: the kitchen is an important room in the house for entertaining and quality family time.

4. Powder room on your main floor. Not only is this important for your guests, but when you’re rushing out of your house, it’s nice to have a washroom on the main floor so that you don’t have to run all the way upstairs.

5. Make sure there is no obsolete knob and tube Wiring. This is a hazard in any home and has to be replaced.

6. Check for mildew in the basement. This can be a sign of other troubles in the house.

7. Are the windows operating? Windows are expensive to change.

8. Galvanized water piping is a definite no!

9. Ensure the house does not slope to the center.

10. Is the roof in good condition?

All of these considerations can help you make the right decision on a good-quality home that you can enjoy for years to come.