OK, so earlier in the week we covered the beginning stages of an exterior paint job. If you’re still with us and actually want to go through with this grueling work, then read on because there are a few more steps involved.

Step 3: Washing, Sanding and Priming

Once the old paint is removed, fire up the ole power washer for a quick deep cleaning. As the name implies, these washers are extremely powerful, strong enough to rip apart wood, so don’t set it to high and start blasting. The idea is to remove any surface dirt and leftover paint. Once finished, allow two or three days for the wood to completely dry before sanding.

Sanding smoothes the surface and removes any loose, splintering material, which is especially important if you’re going to be walking on the wood. For small surfaces such as windowpanes, a palm sander (electric or manual) works well; for larger spots, use a random orbit sander (rentable). To avoid clogging up the machine, start with coarse, 100-grit sandpaper, moving on to a finer grit (120-grit) as you sand down.

Once sanded, wood needs to be primed to protect against moisture. There are two main primer types: alkyd primer, also called “oil base,” is usually used on wood trim and siding, treated lumber and metal surfaces. Alkyd primers are good for blocking stains, can be diluted using mineral spirits, and usually dry within a few hours or overnight. Apply with a natural bristle brush.

Acrylic, or latex primer, is similar to alkyd primer and can be used underneath any type of paint, even oil-based paint. Unlike alkyd primer, acrylic primer can be diluted using water and—the real benefit—has a reduced drying time, about four hours max.

Step 4: Picking Paint

Finally, time to get painting. But what’s better for exteriors, oil or latex? The answer used to be oil for its durability, but the quality of latex paints (and primers) has improved to the point of equality, with latex leading the pack for its ease of use and better environmental properties. Moreover, some contractors believe oil paint chokes wood, not allowing the material to breath and making it prone to moisture problems whereas latex allows moisture to pass through without causing the paint to pull away from the wood and peel or crack.

I’ve been using the word “paint” but really I’m talking about paint or stain, and when it comes to exterior wood, stain is usually your best bet for two reasons: one, it allows for the natural beauty of the wood to shine through, showing off the grain patters; but even more importantly, stain tends to penetrate deeper into wood whereas paint just coats the outside. Unlike paint, however, oil-based stain tends to stand up to exterior abuse better than latex-based stain, but if you prep the wood properly, the difference between the two is negligible.

The combination of stained wood with painted accents (windowsills, trim, and so on) is timeless, so consider adding some splashes of colour.

As for choosing a brush, there are two basic types: those made with natural bristles, used for applying alkyd or oil-based paint; and those with synthetic bristles, which can be used to apply all types of paint. As for quality, look for tapered ends (the centre bristles should be slightly longer than those at the edge to help lay down the paint smoothly. Also, choose a brush that is at least half-again as long as it is wide (e.g., the bristles on a two-inch-wide brush should be at least three inches in length).

For size, a four-inch brush with tightly packed bristles, about ¼-inch thick, is best for exterior painting, and an angled one-inch sash brush is great for painting trim and window frames. Lastly, don’t skimp on quality. Well-made brushes create a deep, smooth finish that naturally fends off mildew and dirt.

Step 5: Are you sure you want to do this?

Unlike indoor painting, exterior jobs require a lot of work (especially if you’re up on a ladder all day) and require about a week’s worth of dry days and nights. Depending on the size of the job, scraping, sanding, priming and painting can take up to a week, with three or four days of drying time.

Depending on where you live, the best outdoor painting weather is spring or early fall. The middle of summer might seem dry, but the hot, humid weather creates bad conditions for the paint—it simply won’t dry in high humidity; and in extreme heat, paint will dry too fast, causing uneven drying and even wood warping— to say nothing of the painter.

If it’s a small job, like refinishing a deck or painting a garage, this is certainly doable for most seasoned DIYers; if it’s painting an entire house, hire a pro and don’t waste your holidays.

When I was a kid one of my summer jobs was painting and staining decks and cottages. I’d arrive in my little tin boat and spend a day scraping off peeling paint and stain, maybe sanding a few rough edges before slapping on a new coat of finish. Two days work, easy cash. After all, what’s so hard about painting, right? Pick your colour and get rolling, or brushing or spraying. Done and done — if you can make the decision.

But not quite. I bet most of the exterior paint jobs lasted a season or two—at best; more likely, the finish was coming off before Thanksgiving closedown. Unless you want to repaint every year or be left with a spotty, craggy finish, exterior painting requires both mental and physical prep work, as Katie at Besotted Cottage found out. Here’s the scoop.

Step 1: Wood Inspection

Before you argue with your spouse over which hue of green best matches the dog’s fur, trek down to the hardware store and purchase a $30 moisture meter. These simple-to-use (think of those BBQ fork thermometers) devices check the moisture level of the wood. If the wood is too wet, paint won’t adhere properly. As a general rule, if the wood has more than 16 per cent moisture, it shouldn’t be painted. If this is the case, wait until later in the summer, when the wood is dryer from summer sun.

Step 2: Scrape

Scraping is perhaps the most straightforward task. For really loose paint, a simple flanged scraper works well; for harder-to-remove surfaces, use a sharp hook-type scraper. Scraping quickly dulls the blade, so if you’re working with a large area, keep checking the blade to make sure it’s not dull, and keep scraping until the old paint is removed.

For really stubborn areas, you can use an electric heat gun, but make sure you’re wearing a proper face mask to prevent against inhaling dangerous fumes from old oil and lead paint. As well, be aware that a heat gun can burn the wood, so keep water on hand to douse any flames.

Also, a word of warning: don’t fiddle around with sandblasting or chemical paint removers. These are professional-level tools that can easily ruin the wood if you don’t know what you’re doing. If the job requires this level of removal, consider hiring a pro.

Up next in Part 2: Washing, Sanding, Priming and, finally, Painting!

I’ve always been drawn to before-and-after pictures, whether real or fake. There’s something satisfying about seeing the transformation, usually from cluttered to clean, or drab to fab, to borrow a term from all those perky, slightly annoying home design makeover shows. What’s popular today can quickly look dated before the wallpaper even starts to fade.

Far from slick, the most interesting before-and-afters are taken by regular people for their own amusement. (“Hey, remember what this placed looked like when we moved in? Why were we so into ducks?”) So I was glad when I came across a wonderful blog dedicated to all things past and present, which in turn led me to (gulp) the girly magazine CasaSugar, part of an online media company targeting home-loving Carrie Bradshaw types, I was pleasantly surprised by a whole section devoted to my beloved B&A photos.

The site features seven pages of B&A photos and stories, covering everything from a classic aluminum trailer renovation to kitchens, bathrooms and even colour, proving that not all renovations require tearing down and rebuilding; sometimes a simple coat of paint is all that’s required.

On a slightly higher-end note is noted blog Design*Sponge, which features the before-and-after shots from various creative geniuses who reinvent their spaces with things like chalkboards culled from soon-to-be-destroyed schoolhouses and lampshades made from fabric they’ve painted themselves. The only problem? The before pictures often reach a level of put-togetherness that my rooms could only hope to attain.

For those of us still grappling with the before, not able to gaze into the future, there is help online. And check out the Home Renovation Guide’s very own PhotoShare program for a chance to upload your own pictures too.

Somewhere along the way, I’ve developed a reputation for barbecuing food; king of the grill, fire champ, if you catch my drift. It seems wherever I go, I’m expected to drop my drink and take care of the ‘cueing, while everyone else sits around relaxing and watching me like I’m some master chef. Not that I mind, so long as everything’s in perfect order. A champ cannot perform well in bad conditions.

Problems always arise with out-of-tune grills, barbecues with hot and cold spots, low heat, flare-ups or just plain dirty grilling surfaces. But during the outdoor season, the barbecue acts as your kitchen, and how long could you put up with an oven that didn’t work? People live with these issues as if there’s nothing that can be done, but barbecues, like all tools, require yearly maintenance to keep working at top form. That said, the fixes, like everything BBQ, are easy.

Before I continue, I should clarify: I am talking about gas-powered barbecues, not the traditional hibachi or other charcoal cookers. If you’re a traditionalist and consider gas a sin, skip this lesson. For the rest of us, read on.

Step 1: The Burner

Hot and cold spots, flare-ups and other griller eccentrics are almost always related to the burner, the griller’s engine. Depending on how often you use your grill (year-round for me, 52% of other Canadians, according to a recent study by the makers of the fine Weber grills), it eventually burn out and need replacing.

Simply lift off the grills, pull aside the coals or “flavour wave” and lift out the burner. Not all burners are the same size or fit, so wrap it inside a small bag (so it doesn’t make everything dirty) and take it into a hardware store, where you can show it to the guy and get a replacement. For about $40 you’ll have, essentially, a new ‘cue.

Step 2: Spiders and Rust

Spiders and rust … sounds like an Iron Maiden album. New barbecues come equipped with “spider guards” that prevent these small critters from entering the venturi tubes (the metal connectors that feed gas to the burner). This tends to happen over the winter, with spiders and their webs, plus other dirt and debris, clogging up the pipes.

While you’re at the hardware store, pick up a $4 venturi brush, which is basically a long, skinny pipe cleaner with a bristled end. Then simply push the brush through the pipes till they’re clean and free.

Still in a cleaning frame of mind? Now’s the time to get rid of any rust buildup around the venturi tubes, burners and grates. Fine steel wool (#000 or #0000) and some light machine oil should get rid of any surface rust; if the decay runs deeper, you might need to replace a part, but here we’re usually talking about the burner, which should be replaced every two to three years anyway. Same goes for the rubber gas hose similar to the hoses under your car hood; if it’s cracked, replace it.

Rusty propane tanks should not be tinkered with. As a general rule, these tanks last about eight to 10 years. (Quick tip: get two tanks so that if one empties while you’re cooking, you can quickly hook up the full tank without ruining the meal.)

Step 3: Add new coals

Most gas barbecues don’t require charcoal coals because they come with what’s often referred to as a “flavour wave,” which reflects and directs flames while creating smoke from dripping juices and oils. However, that said, you can certainly add charcoal coals to your ‘cue, just make sure you replace them every season or so.

Besides coals, you can also play around with pieces of soaked wood (apple wood smoked ribs, anyone?), such as hickory. Use your own, or buy specially soaked shavings from a specialty food store.

Step 4: You’re Done

That’s right, there is no Step 4. See, I told you, barbecuing is easy living done well, or in my case, medium rare.

Canadians and Americans are different. For every similarity—our love/hate relationship with Celine Dion; our affinity for televised sports, with regional differences, of course — there are differences that clearly make each country separate. And I’m not just talking about Canada’s love for Clamato and the ongoing love affair Americans have with spray cheese. Gross.

But the real difference between America and Canada, at least as far as this blog is concerned, concerns the White House and 24 Sussex Drive. Don’t know what “24 Sussex Drive” is? That’s my point.

This past weekend, the Canadian media reported on the decrepit state of Prime Minister Steve Harper’s abode, pointing out that the 34-room house, built in 1866, is in desperate need of a reno—to the tune of $10 million.

At stake: who will pay for the renos and where will Steve and his family live during the repairs, which include replacing old windows, removing asbestos and installing a sprinkler system. They’re looking at a 12- to 15-month project, and that’s assuming that the subcontractors show up on time.

I simply cannot imagine the White House undergoing such prolonged and publicly debated scrutiny over when and how the “official residence” will be brought up to date; it’s not that the White House has never been renovated—it has, many times—but that Canadian leaders have historically lacked the political will and wallets to authorize big-budget renovations, let alone the cosmetic changes brought in by U.S. presidents and (likely) future leaders.

Of course, all this pales in comparison to the reno headaches suffered by other world leaders. Former Czech president Václav Havel writes in his memoir, To the Castle and Back, about concerns with the Castle’s garden hose, which needs to be lengthened, and the bat inhabiting the vacuum-cleaner closet, all while trying to run a newly democratic country. Talk about gaining perspective.

Sometimes I think Canada suffers from too much democracy; as in, too much debate over how and when things need to get fixed. It’s why there is an excessive number of elections, and a state house in need of the Holmes treatment. In the States, on the other hand, the chain of command means things get done ASAP, which is good when it comes to renos, but not as good when it comes to foreign policy.

No, we’re not the same. But that’s what makes us friends.

Lately I’ve been enjoying the ramblings of Ohio blogger DIY Diva, a self-described “power tool wielding badass” in Ohio. When she’s not shredding legal documents or dreaming of owning a mini-lathe, this ripped jeans–wearing woman is busy remodeling her 80-year-old house.

I mention the Diva because she’s the one who turned me on to Handyguys Podcast. If you’re not familiar with podcasting, basically it’s a downloadable audio or video program, like a TV or radio show, that you can watch or listen to on your computer. Handyman’s Podcast is a weekly advice show (posted every Thursday) put together by two guys with ample reno experience.

The show covers questions sent in by listeners, as well as general how-to advice on everything from deck refinishing to spring cleaning your lawnmower to head-to-head tool tests. It’s a great show led by two entertaining and informed DIYers.

Handyman’s Podcast isn’t the only home-reno show in the blogosphere. Podcasting works well with renos because you get to hear from real people about what they went through and how to solve problems in a way that doesn’t always work in books or magazines. Here are some other remodelling podcasts:

Podcast Directory lists several building-related podcasts, including shows on tiling and insulation.

HGTV (Home and Garden Television) offers tons of podcasts covering everything from basement makeovers to home wine storage.

If you read Popular Science magazine, you’re already familiar with The Toolmonger, a guy who tests and reviews tools like a one-man Consumer Reports. The podcasts feature The Toolmonger offering his opinions and advice on buying and comparing tools.

Of course, with all online content, please use caution when deciding who’s an expert and who’s blowing hot air; not everyone’s the expert they claim to be.

My friend Antony and I often joke about the pleasant feeling evoked by a “Canadian Basement.” You know what I mean: dark, wood panelling, old curtains, shag rugs and often a hint of brown-orange-yellow. Step downstairs and it’s 1976.

Yes, some nostalgia is fine, but when your whole house starts reeking of a bygone era, it might be time for an overhaul into the new century.

The fine folks over at One Project Closer, a blog co-written by two married couples from Baltimore County, Maryland, tackled this very subject in a post about sanding away stipple ceilings.

Stipple ceilings were very popular in the late 1970s and 1980s as a simple, cheap way for homebuilders and cutoff jeans–wearing DIYers to finish a drywall or sheetrock ceiling without having to mud or sand the drywall joints. Often confused with popcorn or spray-on ceilings, stipple ceilings are renowned for great acoustic properties (they reduce room echo) but the porous, crater-like texture looks dated, too space-like, too 1970s, too, well, I hate to use this word, groovy.

If your home was built before 1990, chances are it’s still got some outdated designs. While my heart belongs to wood paneling, some people—most people—aren’t keen on the dark, dingy look, so the panels are the first to go, replaced by drywall or painted over.

Next stop, bathrooms with outdated bulky cabinets and enough sinks to please the Solid Gold Dancers. As a general rule, getting rid of a cluttered look with big drawers is Step 1 in any bathroom update.

Of course, ceilings and counters aren’t the only parts of your home that can quickly look dated. Walls, especially wallpaper-covered ones, can look out of style before the glue dries. But then again, recovering walls with paint or paper is also the quickest way to bring something from 1978 to 2008 in a weekend.

So now that your home is completely up-to-date, ever wonder which of its features will look dated in 10 years?

It’s that time of year again. No, I’m not talking about yachting season (although, really, boat drinks do deserve a full blog entry of their own). I’m talking about digging in the dirt, the perennial springtime sport of gardeners and deck builders.

Most of us have no idea what’s underneath our lawns and gardens, and unless you’ve dug up a pool or set deep deck posts, why would you? When we need to dig, we dig. Unfortunately, freewheeling digging can leave DIYers knee-deep in more than soil when their shovel accidentally jabs an underground utility line.

Luckily, someone has set up a program to help inform people how to create holes in the ground safely. The Safe Digging Month program, which begins this May, provides a website and U.S.-based national phone number to help homeowners get their utility lines marked before breaking ground. To learn more about the program, click here.

Canadian readers, there’s help for you, too. While there’s no national organization or one-stop website, utility line digging resources abound, so simply type “utility line digging” into Google, along with your location (Moosejaw, Halifax, and so on) and you’re good to go.

Alternatively, of course, there’s a tool that will do the work for you. And with that kind of investment, you may just get inspired to go in search of buried treasure.