Having grown up in a house without air conditioning, I know what it’s like to sweat through hot nights and loud fans. This was a time before the efficient, quiet fans now common; back in the day, we put loud, plane-propeller-size units in the window and on the floor hoping for a bit of air movement, just enough to pass out.

Luckily, I’ve found better way to keep cool. I still don’t have air condition, mind you, but I like it that way; besides, I’ve found a more efficient, less energy-taxing solution: the ceiling fan. Installed the right way, in the right place, these inexpensive and easy-to-install devices will keep you cool and save you cash.

Unlike energy-hogging A/C units, electric ceiling fans don’t actually cool the air; rather, they move it around, which helps evaporate moisture, on your skin and on surfaces in your home, making things feel cooler. Ceiling fans also help draw up warm air, mixing it with cooler air for more moderate room temperatures, so you get gentle warmth without the frigid, synthetic feel of air conditioning. (In winter, switch blade direction and the fan will push down warm air rather than draw it up.)

Installation

Putting up a fan is as easy as installing a ceiling light—right? Not quite. Screwing into the existing junction box might not provide enough stability. After all, some of these fans weigh more than 30 pounds standing still; add in the pressure and vibration created by the spinning blades and you’re left with a dangerous spinning blade—to say nothing of an eyesore.

Instead of affixing directly into the existing junction box, attach the fan to something—a beam—that will securely handle the weight and motion of the fan. Of course, it will need to be hooked up for power, so if you’re at all unsure how to safely connect, especially if your fan is also a light, hire an electrician to come in for a quick, inexpensive inspection.

Right place, right fan

Ceiling fans aren’t one-size-fits-all; there are ceiling fans for every type of decor; ceiling fans operable by remote control; fans designed for sloped ceilings; fans with blades as big as canoe paddles—you name it, it exists. Unless you want to recreate the plane-blade scene in Raiders of the Lost Ark, the first consideration here is ceiling height. If your ceiling is less than eight feet, it’s too low for a ceiling fan. Also, the blade span should be no closer than two feet from the wall to allow for airflow.

The final consideration is noise. Put it this way, you could spend $25, but do you really want to live with a fan worthy of the exhaust system at KFC?

Last week Toronto hosted the Green Living Show, a consumer show featuring everything from greywater irrigation systems to renewable energy (solar, wind, water) to food made from organic ingredients. In other words, everything you need to live the eco existence, including a keynote address by none other than Bill Clinton, who headlined with top tips for living green.

Mixed in with the usual contenders—chemical-free cleaning supplies, organic sauces served up with pretzels (what show would be complete without these freebie stalls?), the seemingly un-ironic car companies touting their hybrid vehicles—was a single vendor selling a basic, low-tech idea: The Living Wall.

Like any wall system, The Living Wall acts as both a privacy screen and a noise dampener, except instead of being built out of synthetic materials (brick, steel, iron) this wall is made from willow shrubs that grow quickly, is easy to maintain (the stalks keep their shape and don’t require special watering) and are hardy enough to survive the both the heat of Houston and the frigid wrath of Winnipeg.

The concept behind The Living Wall is quite old, derived from the basic recipe of combining two-year-old willows with wooden posts, which provide stability and force the shoots to project upward and straight. The Wall can be as long as you want, planted as a single line or in rows for added privacy, or in combination with other organic wall systems (see more pictures here). Willows have a lifespan of about 30 to 40 years, so replanting is necessary; other than that, the only maintenance required is gentle trimming.

Completely organic and graffiti-proof, this carbon-dioxide absorber establishes itself quickly, blends in with nature and is cheap to build and maintain—clearly a winning combination when it comes to landscaping.

By now, global-warming naysayers are fringe folk who probably also believe the world is flat. We know the benefits of recycling, and energy efficiency has become the buzzword in home building and renovating. Your highly efficient stove and windows may cost more upfront, but the real savings—and your home’s resale value—come through reduced energy bills and increased life spans while also helping make the planet a better place.

But green building isn’t just about the planet—it’s also about the health of the homeowner. Newly renovated homes often have that “new car” smell, which is really a stew of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) often found in oil paint, as well as formaldehyde off-gassing from engineered wood, like the medium-density fibreboard (MDF) used to make kitchen cabinets and furniture.

According to the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation, indoor air quality—especially in tight, new homes—can be three to four times more polluted than outdoor air, which may be the reason 20 per cent of North Americans have some form of lung disorder, likely linked to dust and mold in your home. We spend an average of 90 per cent of our time indoors, either at work or at home, so eliminating VOCs is crucial.

Luckily, homeowners today have options not readily available even five years ago. Most paint, for example, is virtually VOC-free, and engineered wood such as MDF is now available without formaldehyde. For flooring, CMHC recommends hard surfaces, such as prefinished hardwood flooring, or ceramic tiles laid down using a low-toxin grout. The reason: hard surfaces are easier to clean, they don’t collect dust as easily as carpet and they are last longer, which means, beyond better air quality, you’re also reducing repair costs and trips to the dump to plonk worn-out carpet.

The U.S. National Institutes of Health website includes a page dedicated to household products and toxins. Click Products and then choose Inside the Home (for bathroom, kitchen, etc.) or Home Maintenance (for grout, insulation, paint, etc.).

Still unsure how indoor air quality relates to you or how you can easily reduce harmful VOCs? Health Canada has a section containing information, resources, and even a few quizzes to help you get your air quality where you want it to be.

Up next in the Part 3 of the Green Your Home series: the appliances available that keep you feeling good about the earth.

Ask Sam, The Service Expert

Q. If my home’s air is uncomfortable, what will you look for?

A. We’ll evaluate your home’s air against many criteria including humidity, moisture, airflow, filtration, ductwork and carbon monoxide using our exclusive Home HealthReport™ Card.

Q. Is humidity that big of a deal?

A. It sure is. Humidity levels affect your comfort and health inside as much as they do outside. Too much can promote mildew growth. Too little can dry skin, make throats sore and cause respiratory problems. In other words, humidity levels need to be balanced in order to feel comfortable at normal temperature settings.

Q. Our basement always seems damp. Does that matter?

A. Yes. It can become a breeding ground for microbes and contaminants that can lead to severe respiratory problems, allergies and even immune system disorders. You may need to put in a moisture barrier and then a dehumidification system.

Q. How does inadequate air flow effect my inside comfort?

A. It can cause poor heating and air conditioning equipment performance or increased energy consumption. It could also lead to things like improper humidity levels, an uncomfortable home and higher utility bills. By measuring your home’s air flow, a NATE-certified technician can determine what changes need to be made in your system to ensure maximum comfort and energy efficiency.

Q. Do I need more than the ’standard’ filter in my furnace?

A. Possibly. Without adequate filtration, expensive heating and cooling equipment can become clogged and lead to decreased efficiency, higher utility costs and potentially expensive repairs. The wrong filter could also cause dust buildup that can make your family susceptible to colds, allergies and respiratory disorders.

Q. I noticed some damage to my ductwork. Is that a problem?

A. Yes. If ducts are damaged or improperly sealed or insulated, they can waste energy and draw pollutants into your home, then distribute them to every room.

Q. How can I protect my family from carbon monoxide?

A. Purchase a carbon monoxide detector. In addition, have your gas appliances checked to determine if theyare properly ventilated.

Do you realize that indoor air pollution can be worse than the pollution outdoors? Up to seventy percent worse? And with so many people allergic to items such as pollen and dust, if you can purify the air in the home, it is much better for you and your family.

A furnace air filter is one of the most common ways of cleaning the air in your home. But if you are going to buy one, stay away from the throw-away furnace types. Several (but to make it clear, not all) types of throw-away furnace air filters do not have any sealing capacities. This means that the smaller sized particles pass both through and around the air filter, causing the face of the filter to load up and not stopping the dust and pollen. Don’t buy a throw-away filter unless you are really sure it’s good.

So what other sort of furnace air filter can you buy? To start with, you really want to look for one with a high dust holding capacity, around 330 grams or more. Ring panel furnace air filters are pretty good. They have a great sealing ability and a tight fit when fitted into the air filter slot. The tight fit ensures that all the air passes through the filter, rather than around it, stopping the pollen, dust and all those other little things that can cause allergies.

A permanent washable furnace filter is another good idea. Of course, over time the more that you wash it the less effective it usually becomes, but they do last for a while. And you haven’t got any messy filter to throw away when it needs to be replaced. So the washable furnace filter is an environmentally friendly option, as well as non-allergenic.

One big downside to most furnace filters is that most of them do not remove or lessen some of the main causes of allergies in the house. I am speaking primarily to people who are allergic to dust mites or cats. If you are one of them, then maybe a furnace air filter is not the right kind of filter for you.

On the upside, these types of filters are some of the cheapest to run, so if ongoing cost is a main consideration for you, check out these filters. The furnace air filters also have a reputation for not emitting ozone. Good if you are environmentally aware.

Taking care of your new flooring will keep it looking new for years. It is so important to take proper care of it. Please refer to the below guide which will help you.

Ceramic Tile & Sheet Vinyl
Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove dirt & grit.
Wash floor with suitable mild cleaner.
(Do not use vinegar or bleach).
Wipe up spills promptly with a damp cloth or mop.

Carpet

Regular carpet maintenance can enhance indoor air quality and prevent premature deterioration.

Vacuum and spot clean daily.
Implement a preventative maintenance program.
Steam clean when necessary.

Hardwood & Laminate Flooring

Control and monitor indoor humidity.
Use felt pads on furniture.
Vacuum and sweep regularly.
Only use hardwood and laminate floor cleaners.

Chris Paulsen

There are all kinds of particles floating around in our air that should not be entering our homes. Particles such as viruses, bacteria, dust, dander and pollen, as well as airborne chemicals like formaldehyde and benzene can all be harmful to our health. These contaminants are drawn into the filter and are caught in the electrically charged media pads. The glass fibre pads act as a magnet, capturing even the smallest of particles.

According to the NAFA (National Air Filtration Association), 95 to 98% of indoor air is made up of particles smaller than one micron - including most of the worst toxins, bacteria, viruses and lung-damaging dust.

If we took 0.1 cubic feet of air, here’s approximately how many particles would be found at the following micron sizes:

27,000 particles at the 0.3 - 0.5 micron level
4,500 particles at the 0.5-1.0 micron level
500 particles at the 1.5 micron level
20 particles at the 5-10 micron level
A few at the 10-25 micron level

In order for this to sink in, let’s put it into context. We know that 95 - 98% of indoor air is made up of particles smaller than one micron. How big is a micron, anyway? Put it this way. The size of a human strand of hair is 70 microns. So, unless you’re Superman, you can’t physically see any of the evil floating around in the air.

Many air filter companies say they are “95% efficient at 1 micron” - which really means they are collecting less than 2% of the harmful airborne particulates. That’s not helping you! Knowing the details of what you want to eliminate will help you ensure that your home is as healthy as possible.

Improving the air
doesn’t stop with pollutants.
It’s also important
to consider moisture levels.

You know when your home’s air is too hot or cold. That is because you feel uncomfortable. But the amount of moisture in your home’s air also has an impact on the way you feel, plus it can have a major effect on your health.

Too much
High moisture levels can make your home feel stuffy and create a breeding ground for mold, mildew, dust mites and bacteria. Recent studies have shown that mold can cause or worsen asthma, as well as hay fever and other allergies*.

Too little
Dry air makes furniture shrink, warp and crack. Plus, it causes skin irritation and respiratory problems,** not to mention annoying static shocks.

Just right
For optimal comfort and health, studies show that moisture levels should be in the range of 35% to 50%. You can track your home’s humidity with a hygrometer, available at hardware and home improvement stores. Or, you can contact your local Service Experts professional for in-home consultation.

*American Academy of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology, 2004

**Exposure to excessively dry air (relative humidity of less than 20%) can cause respiratory irritation. Source: American Academy of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology

Article is courtesy Service Experts Canada - Toronto, Mississauga and Ottawa Heating and Cooling specialists

Children exposed to dangerous air at home. Survey finds homeowners still unaware of indoor air risks

Drummondville (Quebec) - According to a recent survey by the Canadian Lung Association, 90% of homeowners polled were not aware that exposure to poor indoor air quality can lead to major health problems. Results from the study proved that the concept of indoor air pollution remains relatively ambiguous to most homeowners.

Gerry Gagnon, Product & Market Manager for Venmar Ventilation, the leader in state-of-the-art air ventilation systems, explains: “Most people feel safe in their homes and simply put, affiliate air toxins with the outdoor environment particularly with concern for acid rain, ozone, smog etc. Overall, little emphasis is placed on the possibility of indoor health related illness, except in regard to the ambient air or toxic exposures in the work place.”

Despite this commonly held belief; there is now growing evidence that indoor air pollution can adversely affect human health. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has determined that indoor pollution may be 100 times higher than pollution outside.

Today’s well-insulated homes only exacerbate the problem as they often lack the ability to “breathe” freely. Changes in construction methods driven by energy and efficiency issues since the 1970s, combined with traditional construction materials and finishes being used, “seal inside” the allergens, irritants, and toxins, driving the astronomical increases in respiratory disorders being seen today.

Different homes have different problem areas. In most cases, homes have an overly humid basement that breeds molds and other unhealthy micro-organisms. According to the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation more than 50 per cent of all homes show visible signs of high levels of basement humidity.

A recent report by the Commission for Environmental Co-operation found that asthma rates among children in North America are now four times higher than they were 20 years ago.
Experts believe the reason for these staggering increases in respiratory illness have to do with the fact that we spend 90% of our time indoors, surrounded by a vast array of indoor pollutant sources. High amounts of chemicals, moisture, allergens and molds, can contribute to indoor air pollution and are linked to a series of lung problems such as asthma, chemical sensitivities and allergies.

As it stands, it is up to the homeowner to contend with health problems attributed to indoor air pollution. According to Gagnon, the most assured and practical way to clean indoor air is to invest in an air exchanger system that will filter out harmful pollutants and distribute fresh air throughout the home. The latest technology in indoor air management is the Venmar air exchanger which combines the benefits of both HEPA filtration and ventilation. This system evacuates polluted indoor air and replaces it with fresh, filtered, outdoor air by trapping airborne allergens such as pollen, dust, pet dander mold and bacteria. Excess humidity during the cold season as well as harmful gaseous pollutants not trapped by the system’s HEPA filter are also drawn outside and eliminated.

More information is available at http://www.venmar.ca/

While homeowners choose to undertake many kinds of home renovations, installation and/or repair of heating, ventilating, air conditioning and refrigeration equipment is usually considered an exceptional measure. Yet the heating and cooling system in any structure is a critical factor in occupant comfort and quality of life. The purchase of a furnace, air conditioner or ventilation system is a major investment and deserves careful consideration. Most provinces require the hiring of a licensed or qualified HVAC tradesperson to perform the work because of the safety concerns and consequences involved. However, homeowners frequently do not distinguish among contractors on anything other than price. Consumers should be aware that the lowest price is not always the best value!

There are some obvious red flags to look for when you are shopping around for a contractor. For example, reputable contractors will not quote prices without seeing the job. Reputable contractors will not request large cash advances prior to the delivery of any equipment or materials. And any reputable contractor will readily provide a full business address as well as a telephone number where they can be reached. Apart from these more obvious tip-offs, there are a number of guidelines that a homeowner should keep in mind in order to get the best value when hiring a heating and air conditioning contractor.

1. Finding Reputable Contractors

You may wish to contact neighbours, friends, relatives and co-workers for opinions on work done recently by an HVAC contractor. You can also use the business directory for your area, or newspaper, radio and television ads to identify contractors. In most cases you will be better off selecting contractors that promote the quality of their service and equipment at a reasonable rate, rather than just low prices. It may be best to select experienced firms. If possible, try to visit their offices.

You will want to determine whether the contractor has appropriately certified personnel on staff (sheet metal, refrigeration and air conditioning or electrician journeymen, gas fitters, etc.), whether 24-hour emergency service is available, and whether the contractor offers maintenance and service agreements after the installation and warranty. The warranty policy should be clearly stated for equipment, materials and labour and should indicate who is responsible for honouring the warranty.

2. Getting Estimates

Arrange for the contractor to come and inspect the job site. Some small jobs may be priced out and an estimate written immediately, but larger jobs may require additional time to price properly and to prepare a heat loss and gain calculation for proper sizing of the equipment.

Make sure that each estimate is written on a proper form that is easily read and understood. When comparing the estimates received, the statements about the work to be performed and the materials used should be of comparable quality, or the estimates should make proper allowances for any differences. Be sure that the estimate includes the proper permits and licenses. The warranty policy should be clearly stated for equipment, materials and labour. If the contractor uses sub-contractors for some of the actual work, these should be listed on the proposal and in the contract.

3. The Contract

The contract is the agreement between the homeowner and the contractor that specifies what work will be performed and gives a firm dollar value on that work. It is a legal, binding document when signed by both parties, so be sure you understand and agree with the contents before signing. Any changes or additions in the work to be done should never be made without those alterations being written into the contract and initialed by both parties. If extra billing is to occur, it must be clearly stated and initialled by both parties.

In addition to the name, address and telephone number of the consumer and the contractor, the contract should clearly state the following items:

* required licenses and permits to be purchased by the contractor
* responsibility for removal of old equipment and materials
* warranties and guarantees on materials and labour
* approximate start and completion dates unless specific dates and times are agreed upon
* price and terms of payment

The contractor should also provide orientation regarding operation and maintenance of the equipment, and should leave an operations and maintenance manual with the consumer.

4. Payment Methods

There is no standard method of payment, so the payment schedule will vary from company to company. In any case, the payment schedule should be easy to understand and clearly stated if interest charges are applicable. A nominal deposit may be requested. Get a receipt for your deposit or have the amount shown on the contract and get the salesman to initial it. All payments should be made directly to the company named in the contract.

5. Insurance

It is important that the contractor and any sub-contractors each have public liability and property damage insurance, and be able to produce a certificate of good standing from the Workers Compensation Board. You may wish to ask who the policy is with and follow up to verify that it is current.

6. References

Reputable contractors will be more than willing to give you the names and addresses of customers they’ve done work for in your area. You may wish to contact the Better Business Bureau, which maintains records of consumer complaints about its members. You should also ask whether the contractor is a member of the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Contractors of Canada (HRAC-Canada), the industry association for heating and air conditioning contractors in Canada. HRAC requires its members to carry relevant trade, fuel safety and municipal licenses as well as workers compensation. A companies membership in HRAC tells you that the company is properly licensed and that they are committed to continuous improvement through education and training.

Reprinted with permission from the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Contractors of Canada. www.hrac.ca

**Courtesy of Sears Home Central - Home Central

Note: For American contractors, please visit the Air Conditioning Contractors of America at www.acca.org.