by Guest

Dealing with mold can be a scary thing, but it doesn’t have to be.  Follow the five steps below to eliminate and prevent mold problems, so you and your family can move on to enjoying a healthy home:

Keep it Dry! Maintain indoor relative humidity between 30 and 50 percent, using dehumidifiers as required.  New houses require constant dehumidification, according to the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation. Monitor humidity levels with a hygrometer: an inexpensive device found at many hardware stores.

Circulate, Circulate, Circulate! Nothing helps moisture breed quicker than stale, dead air.  Ensure ventilation of humid areas such as bathrooms and attics, and of moisture-producing appliances, such as clothes dryers. Encourage air exchange by opening doors and windows when possible; indoor mold spore counts are typically higher than outdoor counts.  Consider ceiling fans in several areas of your home (and keep them on as much as possible).  Air conditioning also helps circulate air in the home.

Seal it Properly. Avoid condensation-related moisture by properly sealing windows and insulating cold water pipes and air conditioning vents.

Investigate Monthly. Monitor mold hotspots such as bathrooms, kitchens, basements and attics for evidence of mold. It might be a good idea to take a look around these areas once a month.  Look for surface discoloration and ‘follow your nose’ – that musty, earthy smell could be hidden mold.

Treat it Right Away! If you find mold treat it immediately. However, there are more friendly products than bleach that are available. Treating mold can be something that homeowners can do easily themselves but beware if you have mold that makes up more than a 10ft x 3ft space — you should call in a professional to take a look.

This article has been provided by Concrobium®, makers of an earth friendly method to kill and prevent mold that is approved by Health Canada called Concrobium Mold Control®.

For all your home improvement needs, search North America’s largest online directory Home Renovation Guide. Looking for a home improvement professional? Get a free quote? Submit your project here and have local contractors find you.

by Kert Heinecke

Green building in its current manifestation is primarily hype. The market, quick to jump on the bandwagon, has focused primarily on tangible products that may draw envy from neighbors, but do little to actually preserve precious resources and reduce your energy bills. The real decision to go ‘green’ should start with the decision to minimize the home energy footprint. Growing consensus among building scientists suggest that the first major step to improving a homes energy efficiency is home air sealing, and it is feasible for all existing homes. When you add the current tax credits and utility company rebates to the equation, the opportunity to take this first step towards the energy smart home is nearly impossible to ignore.

So why Air Seal?

Starting back with the energy crisis of the 1970’s and continuing into the 80’s, there was a push in the building industry to make homes more energy efficient by increasing the R-value of the building envelope. The thinking at the time was that if we add more insulation, and thereby increase its R-value (a measure of a materials resistance to heat flow) we could slow down the heat loss that is conducted through the building envelope. While this thinking was right on and took us a step in the right direction, it failed to consider the complete heat transfer picture. More recent studies have now concluded that houses will continue to under perform thermally unless air leakage has been addressed.

A tight building envelope, one that has been properly air sealed, can provide numerous benefits to its owners and the environment. Energy conservation quickly rushed onto everyone’s radar last year as the cost of fuel skyrocketed.

As we see the cost of energy continue to rise, conserving energy and reducing our energy bills will continue to be at the forefront of the public consciousness. In several recent projects, we have seen energy bills reduced by as much as 30% through the implementation of strategic air sealing.

In New England, where cold winters and chilly evenings are a given, we can all appreciate the value of occupant comfort as we are forced to put on sweaters or sit under blankets to combat a winter chill. Leaky window sashes and doors that lack weather stripping are obvious sources of drafts. On the other hand, the less apparent sources, the smaller gaps and cracks that exist in all structures seem to small to be concerned with. When added together, all of these smaller gaps can equal the size of a typical window sash or larger being left wide open in the middle of winter. While sweaters and blankets have become iconic symbols of winter coziness, no one would choose to wear a sweater instead of closing the window.

Perhaps one of the strongest arguments for air sealing is building durability. The greatest contribution we can make towards green building and resource conservation is to construct buildings to last for generations. When it comes to building durability in cold climates like ours, Air sealing is used not to stop infiltration, but ex-filtration of air. In the winter, warm interior air is laden with moisture from occupant respiration, cooking, and bathing. When this moisture filled air moves through the building envelope, it eventually comes into contact with a cold surface that is below the dew point temperature. When this occurs, the moisture condenses and builds up leaving large quantities of water in the building structure. This water can lead to rot, decay, and mold growth that undermine the buildings integrity.

The other impact on building durability from air leakage is ice damming. Icicles are a standard prop in the stage set of New England winter, but they are also evidence of a problem that can lead to numerous areas of damage including plaster and structural damage from leaks inside the house as well as damage to siding, gutters, and shingles outside the house. Ice damming is typically caused by the stack effect. As warm air rises within the conditioned interior, it escapes through the numerous small leaks in the ceiling. Over time, this escaping heat can greatly increase the temperature of the roof surface melting the snow which then refreezes as it reaches the cold eaves line forming the ice dam. The only way to effective way to battle all of these issues is through strategic air sealing.

Air Sealing Basics

The premise of air sealing is really quite simple, but execution is the key. Air sealing is the systematic location and sealing, or stopping, of the major leaks in a homes building envelope.

The process typically starts with a thermal envelope performance audit consisting of blower door testing, and a visual inspection of the building envelope using an infrared camera. The blower door is an indispensable tool. The blower door is a large fan that is installed in the main entry door and depressurizes the house. It is used to run a series of tests that result in a calculated volume of air leakage under normal conditions. With this data, it is possible to determine how much money and energy is being lost to air leakage. Conversely, it makes predicting savings from air sealing a snap and provides an important piece of data necessary for cost benefit analysis of the actual work ahead.

The blower door is also used during the visual inspection. Again, by depressurizing the building, it is possible to exaggerate the effects of air leakage. With even a modest temperature difference between indoors and outdoors, the leaks become immediately apparent when viewed with an infrared camera. The camera uses infrared technology to read the surface temperatures of the building envelope from the interior, and represents them graphically with an operator determined color coding scheme (e.g. Blue is cold, red is hot). With these two tools, an inventory of problem areas can be developed in about 1-2 hours time, and the remediation plan can be targeted to realize the greatest reduction in energy consumption and the largest improvement in building performance and durability.

This article has been provided by, Feinmann Inc., a Boston company known for its thoughtful and beautiful design, a well-articulated process, superb craftsmanship, responsive service, and the best value for the cost. With a little inspiration and a lot of follow-through, the Feinmann team has transformed hundreds of homes in the Boston area from good to great. Photographs courtesy of Feinmann Inc. For more information visit www.Feinmann.com.

Looking for a local contractor? Get a free quote.

by Tina Gleisner

Keep the Water Out

Today’s houses are built with a variety of materials. Vinyl siding won’t rot when exposed to water but many parts of a house are made from natural materials like wood. Wood becomes a food source for mold growth when the moisture level gets too high.

Our homes are designed to direct water down and away from your home. Roof shingles overlap to keep water flowing down but when they age (crack, curl, etc) water can get under the shingles and the plywood sheathing can rot.

Inspect and Repair Potential Water Leaks

You will save time and money if you periodically inspect your home for potential water damage. Of course you also need to make needed repairs quickly. Here are several different approaches to monitoring the water tightness of your home:

• Use a pair of binoculars to visually inspect your home every year – fall, spring or both. More frequent reviews will help you recognize changes that indicate potential problems. You’re looking for missing/deteriorating roof shingles and gaps/cracks around the chimney or roof vents. On each side of your home, check wood trim right below the roof line for discoloration (water stains or mold), wood siding and trim (windows, corner boards, etc) for cracked/peeling paint or gaps form aging caulk, and focus on window sills which are a common problem.

• Pick one aspect of your home to inspect more thoroughly. Learn which side of your house gets more exposure to the elements (sun, wind, rain and moisture) and has more repair needs, and check this side twice as often as the other 3 sides. If you’re on a 6 year paint schedule, consider painting this one side every 3 years.

• Check your roof – shingles, chimney and vent pipes, ventilation (inflow & outflow) plus gutters and wood trim immediately below the roof on all sides.

• Check windows and doors focusing on the bottom where water tends to collect, i.e., window sills and door thresholds and gaps/cracks in caulk used to seal seams around the windows.

• Check siding and associated trim like corner boards.

• Check foundation to make sure water is directed away from your home’s foundation. This is critical with new homes (or remodeling) where dirt is filled back after excavation, and settles over a few years. Shrubs should also be trimmed.

Learn to test for squishy or punky wood. Press gently with your finger and you’ll quickly learn to recognize the difference between solid wood and wood that is soft with hidden damage. You can then use a thin, pointed object (needle, paper clip, etc) to see how deep the damage goes but do it carefully to prevent the wood from disintegrating in front of your eyes!

Hopefully this list has given you ideas for how to break down the work into bite size chunks you can complete every 3 to 4 years.Your goal should be to find and correct problems quickly, which will save you money!

Keep Warm (or Cool) Air Inside

People are more aware of energy costs since gas prices rose above $4.00/gallon in 2007. Europeans have paid higher fuel costs for years, so the US government looked there when setting new energy standards. US manufacturers had to retool to meet the standards by June 1, 2009. Home owners have to the end of 2010, to use the $1,500 residential home energy tax credit (new construction different).

• Window Tax Credit Standards*

Most of the energy improvements in cars, appliances and building codes are driven by government regulations. We’ll try to update you frequently and you’ll want to research future purchases to benefit in new exterior products like siding, windows and doors to internal systems including heating, electrical/lighting and plumbing, i.e. there are new hot water heaters coming.

Inspect and Seal or Insulate: Don’t Lose heat out Your Window

Now lets break down home maintenance “energy saving” projects into bite size chunks, ones that won’t overwhelm you. Our goal is to help every home owner reduce their energy consumption … to save money, to improve the value of their home and to help the environment.

First you want to seal air leaks that allow cold (or warm) air to get into your home. Here are the most common areas for savings, and it’s okay to do one each year:

• Windows and doors should be caulked outside,and insulated between the window and the rough framing, to reduce unwanted air flow. Caulk can deteriorate over time and often, little or no insulation surrounds windows and doors.

• Single pane windows should be replaced with energy efficient, double pane windows. If you can’t afford to do the entire house, pick 2 or 3 rooms where you spend the most time.

• Weatherstripping around doors, typically rubber, will become less effective over time and should be replaced to block small cracks.

• Where the wood framing of the house meets the foundation is prone to air leaks. Ideally you can insulate and seal these areas from the basement.

• Next you want to insulate to reduce warn air from escaping, i.e. you’ve paid to heat the air and want to gain as much benefit as you can.

• With warm air rising, the first place to improve insulation is the floor of your attic, to keep warm air in your living spaces.

• Outside walls are more challenging. The most practical time to add insulation is when you’re replacing the siding. We’ve helped customers with creative solutions like a second wall in upstairs bedrooms as opening up and insulating 2×4 walls won’t achieve today’s standards which assume 2×6 framing.

• Insulate (and seal) systems that carry warm air (ductwork) or water (exposed heating and hot water pipes) and put an insulating blanket on your hot water heater.

About the Author

Tina Gleisner is the founder of the Association of Home Professionals, which helps home owners find the information and resources they need to manage their homes with confidence (www.hometipsandtools.com). She has written hundreds of articles about home maintenance, repairs and remodeling to help customers find the best solutions for their home, lifestyle and budget. Through My Handyman of Southern NH, Tina offers services in home maintenance including wood rot and water damage, energy saving improvements and updates such as trim, tile, painting and creative storage solutions.

We were recently contacted with further information to provide homeowners with facts about the 2009 Home Renovation Tax Credit. Great timing since there have been many interesting questions about what projects, materials, or labour are applicable for this credit.

Image provided by Sico Paints

To view the webpages, visit:   http://www.cra-arc.gc.ca/hrtc/

Below, is the FAQ page content, which hopefully will answer some of your questions about how you can benefit from this tax credit.

Here is the link of the page: http://www.cra-arc.gc.ca/gncy/bdgt/2009/fqhmrnvtn-eng.html

FAQS

1. What is the Home Renovation Tax Credit (HRTC)?

The proposed HRTC is a non-refundable tax credit for work performed or goods acquired in respect of an eligible dwelling.

2. What is meant by eligible dwelling?

An eligible dwelling is a housing unit that is eligible to be an individual’s principal residence or that of one or more of their family members, at any time between January 27, 2009 and February 1, 2010. In general, a housing unit is considered eligible to be an individual’s principal residence where it is owned by the individual and ordinarily inhabited by the individual, the individual’s spouse or common-law partner, or their children. This means that any dwelling that you own and use personally could qualify, including your home or your cottage.

3. What is the eligibility period?

The credit will be based on eligible expenditures for work performed or goods acquired after January 27, 2009, and before February 1, 2010. Expenditures incurred pursuant to an agreement that was entered into before January 28, 2009, will not be eligible for the credit.

4. Who will be eligible for the credit?

Eligibility for the HRTC will be family based. A family will generally be considered to consist of an individual or an individual and his or her spouse or common-law partner, including children who will be under 18 years of age, at the end of 2009. A family will be allowed a single credit that may be shared within the family.

If two or more families share the ownership of an eligible dwelling, each family will be eligible for their own separate credit (i.e. each up to $1,350) that will be calculated on their respective eligible expenditures.

5. How will the credit be calculated?

The credit will only be available for the 2009 tax year and applies to eligible expenditures of more than $1,000, but not more than $10,000, resulting in a maximum credit of $1,350 ($9,000 x 15%).

6. What are eligible expenditures?

To be eligible, expenditures incurred in relation to a renovation or alteration to an eligible dwelling (or the land that forms part of the eligible dwelling) must be of an enduring nature and integral to the dwelling, and includes the cost of labour and professional services, building materials, fixtures, rentals, and permits.

Eligible expenditures must be supported by acceptable documentation.

7. What does the CRA consider to be acceptable documentation?

Documentation, such as agreements, invoices, and receipts, must clearly identify the type and quantity of goods purchased or services provided, including, but not limited to, the following information:

• information that clearly identifies the vendor/contractor, their business address and, if applicable, the GST/HST registration number;
• a description of the goods and the date when the goods were purchased;
• The date when the goods were delivered (keep your delivery slip as proof) and/or when the work or services were performed;
• A description of the work performed including the address where the work was performed;
• the amount of the invoice; and
• proof of payment.  Receipts or invoices must indicate paid in full or be accompanied by other proof of payment, such as a credit card slip or cancelled cheque.

Please consult our Underground Economy Web page, for tips to protect yourself when hiring a contractor.

To verify whether someone is registered for GST/HST, please consult the GST/HST Registry.

8. If I own both a house and a cottage and incur eligible expenditures for both, are both sets of expenditures eligible for the HRTC?

If you own and use your home and cottage personally, eligible expenditures incurred for both properties will normally qualify for the HRTC. Please note that the maximum amount of eligible expenditures you can claim in respect of the HRTC is $10,000 per family.

9. I am planning to replace my windows in 2009: can I hire my brother-in-law to help me out and still be eligible?

It depends. Expenditures will not be eligible if the related goods or services are provided by a person not dealing at arm’s length with the individual, unless that person is registered for the Goods and Services Tax/Harmonized Sales Tax under the Excise Tax Act. So, in your case, if your brother-in-law is registered for GST/HST and if all other conditions are met, the expenditure will be eligible for the credit.

10. Will expenditures for the common areas of condominiums and co-operative housing corporations qualify for the credit?

In the case of condominiums and co-operative housing corporations, the individual’s share of the cost of eligible expenditures for common areas will qualify.

11. I rent out my basement. If I renovate the basement for my tenant, will I be allowed to claim the credit?

No. Individuals who earn business or rental income from part of their principal residence will be allowed to claim the credit only for expenditures made for the personal-use areas of the residence.

For expenditures made for common areas or that benefit the housing unit as a whole (such as re-shingling a roof), you must divide the expense between personal use and income-earning use. For further information, please consult the Business and Professional Income Guide or the Rental Income Guide, as applicable.

12. If an eligible expenditure also qualifies for the Medical Expense Tax Credit (METC), will I be allowed to claim both the HRTC and METC?

Yes. Where an eligible expenditure qualifies for the METC the individual will be permitted to claim both the METC and the HRTC for that expenditure.

13. Will the credit be reduced by other government grants or credits that I may receive for the same expenditures?

No. Eligible expenditures will not be reduced by other government tax credits or grants that the individual may be entitled to.

14. Does work performed by electricians, plumbers, carpenters, architects, etc. qualify?

Generally, work performed by electricians, plumbers, carpenters, architects, etc. in respect of an eligible expenditure will qualify. See below for examples of eligible expenditures. If you’re planning on hiring a contractor to do construction, renovation, or repair work on your home, the Get it in Writing! Web site has information that will help you.

15. Could you provide me with some examples of eligible and ineligible expenditures?

Yes, some examples are:

16. What types of expenditures will not qualify?

The following expenditures will not be eligible for the HRTC:

• the cost of routine repairs and maintenance normally performed on an annual or more frequent basis;
• expenditures that are not integral to the dwelling, and other indirect expenditures that retain a value independent of the renovation;
• expenditures for appliances and audio-visual electronics; and
• financing costs.

17. Do I have to submit any supporting documents with my income tax return?

No. However, you must ensure that this information is available, should it be requested by the CRA.

18. How will I claim the HRTC?

A new line will be incorporated in the 2009 personal income tax return to allow you to claim the credit.

19. Where can I get more information about this new tax credit?

Additional information will be posted on the CRA’s Web site as it becomes available. In the meantime, please see the Department of Finance’s Budget 2009 documents for details.

20. The Budget also mentions the ecoENERGY Retrofit – Homes grant. What is it and how can I obtain more information?

The ecoENERGY Retrofit – Homes grant is administered by Natural Resources Canada. The grant applies to a host of measures that reduce energy consumption and provide for a cleaner environment. Home and property owners could be eligible for federal grants of up to $5,000 to offset the cost of making energy efficiency improvements to their home or property. Most provinces and territories have complementary programs that offer additional financial assistance based on the results of the ecoENERGY Retrofit evaluation. For information on how you can qualify, please consult the ecoACTION Web site.

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An online pamphlet will soon be available.

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Planning on some home improvements? What project ideas do you have that fits in the $1000-$10,000 range? Does the HRTC give you the incentive to renovate this year?

Amazingly, hints of spring have been around these past too weeks (although as the temp just recently cooled down, I might have spoken too soon). Aside from longer days and a slight compulsion to wear shorts, it’s really the plethora of spring flowers on the street everywhere I turn that sing spring. The myriad of colours; tulips, daffodils, lilacs, cyclamens and many more I don’t know the sames of, simply brighten up one’s day.

Photo courtesy of Cool, Green, and Shady

Here, at HRG we’ve been working with a local florist Cool, Green, and Shady (2012 Queen St. East located in the Beaches area) for home shows across Ontario. Seeing how the lovely brilliant flowers really lit up the recent National home show (amongst many staged interiors), encouraged me to get some for my own home. Not to mention, there’s a reason why home stagers love adding plants in the home; they really do add some warmth and freshness to any room.

A super cute gift idea for your home or a loved one is a “bulb” plant, which will slowly blossom in the home and after which, can be planted outside.

Here are some helpful hints from their website:

HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR BULB POT (”Bulb pots” are pots and baskets that include a mixture of spring bulbs.)
•	Bulb pots require a moderately bright location.
•	Keep soil moist, but avoid over watering.
•	Room temperature is preferred; avoid excess heat or cold.
•	Once your bulb pot has finished blooming, you may prune the greens and plant the bulbs in your garden where they will bloom again each spring.

Although there are some arguments about how green the cultivated plant industry is, I can’t help but feel that flowers are a simple luxury, and you can take the extra step in asking where your local florist sources the flowers and plants they sell.

Consider buying plants that you can nurture that will clean the air in your home, rather than cut flowers that will not last as long. Mini rosebushes - need I say more?

Painting your home interior may be as easy as paint by numbers for some, but for those uninitiated yet willing to give it a go (and save hundreds of dollars), having a bit of background knowledge is a boon.  This past weekend I painted my entire apartment.  It’s pretty small - only 3 rooms - so, I figured it would be a breeze.  Wrong.  I’m sure that as with most other people, the assumption may be that painting is a no-brainer and hey with a roller, fast too.  While it isn’t rocket science, there are a few pointers that can be very helpful (which I now wish I’d had before hand) for first timers.

I suppose you might want to start out with how to pick colours.  Although I flirted with some ideas of setting a Mediterranean Island feel/California terra-cotta look, in the end I went with a light cream to open up the rooms which had been previously coloured light olive, mauve, and yellow - all hideous shades.

If you’re not sure about which colours you’d like, or even where to begin, you can watch Mag Ruffman’s video tips or read the article. She basically recommends using more than an itty bitty paint chip as a reference.  For further reiteration Style at Home’s article also suggests viewing your chosen hue in different lighting.

Now that you’re sure about the colour(s), what other tools do you need?

1. masking tape

2. drop cloth

3. wall brush & trim and sash brush

4. roller

5. painting paint

6. cleaning supplies

Perusing a number of articles, I was surprised to learn that a number of professionals suggest washing your walls first.  Or, if the existing paint is glossy, you might have to wash with a special solution or else the new paint may not even adhere properly.

I also asked around and the general consensus was to cover everything of importance with a plastic drop cloth, cover edges with masking tape, cut the edges (line with paint) and then fill in the rest with a roller.

I thought this was all I needed to know.  Instead this is what happened …

Top 5 things I learned about painting:

1.  Make sure you have enough paint.

Seems obvious right?  Well, you might not want to end up with a bathroom door and one bedroom wall baby blue as I did.

2. Go towards the light:

Daylight reveals imperfections that are hidden in dim lighting that you’ll be quick to want to correct.

3. Tape the edges:

It will actually save you time in the long run.  I thought that painting the baseboards would be easy since as a fine art painter, I can draw straight lines on canvas no problem.  But as I cut across the baseboards, the effort it took to wipe up dribbles each time it happened collectively took longer than the couple of minutes it would have taken to put down tape in the first place.

4. Don’t overload the roller

Dipping your roller where the paint starts to pool in your paint tray and rolling it until the paint covers it thinly and evenly, tip it so that joint where it attaches is pointing to the ceiling as this will help to avoid gobs on the floor.

5. Start from the Middle

When applying paint with a roller, start about midway on the wall, roll upwards first, then pull down - this way the paint has less of a chance of running onto the floor.

Looking for more detailed instructions? One of my go-to sites - sort of like an online Dummies equivalant - HowStuffWorks.com has a great section on various aspects of painting.

For a host of painting tips, paint decor ideas, the low down on paint, materials, accessories and more, the Home Renovation Guide’s article library painting section is chock full of useful information; from the difference between Latex vs. Elastomeric Paint or the secrets to How to Make a Room Look Larger with Paint.

I wish I had been armed with all of this information, so I hope this post will help out others out there with the determination to beautify their space with paint.  When all is said and done, next time, I’d seriously consider just hiring a professional.

Having grown up in a house without air conditioning, I know what it’s like to sweat through hot nights and loud fans. This was a time before the efficient, quiet fans now common; back in the day, we put loud, plane-propeller-size units in the window and on the floor hoping for a bit of air movement, just enough to pass out.

Luckily, I’ve found better way to keep cool. I still don’t have air condition, mind you, but I like it that way; besides, I’ve found a more efficient, less energy-taxing solution: the ceiling fan. Installed the right way, in the right place, these inexpensive and easy-to-install devices will keep you cool and save you cash.

Unlike energy-hogging A/C units, electric ceiling fans don’t actually cool the air; rather, they move it around, which helps evaporate moisture, on your skin and on surfaces in your home, making things feel cooler. Ceiling fans also help draw up warm air, mixing it with cooler air for more moderate room temperatures, so you get gentle warmth without the frigid, synthetic feel of air conditioning. (In winter, switch blade direction and the fan will push down warm air rather than draw it up.)

Installation

Putting up a fan is as easy as installing a ceiling light—right? Not quite. Screwing into the existing junction box might not provide enough stability. After all, some of these fans weigh more than 30 pounds standing still; add in the pressure and vibration created by the spinning blades and you’re left with a dangerous spinning blade—to say nothing of an eyesore.

Instead of affixing directly into the existing junction box, attach the fan to something—a beam—that will securely handle the weight and motion of the fan. Of course, it will need to be hooked up for power, so if you’re at all unsure how to safely connect, especially if your fan is also a light, hire an electrician to come in for a quick, inexpensive inspection.

Right place, right fan

Ceiling fans aren’t one-size-fits-all; there are ceiling fans for every type of decor; ceiling fans operable by remote control; fans designed for sloped ceilings; fans with blades as big as canoe paddles—you name it, it exists. Unless you want to recreate the plane-blade scene in Raiders of the Lost Ark, the first consideration here is ceiling height. If your ceiling is less than eight feet, it’s too low for a ceiling fan. Also, the blade span should be no closer than two feet from the wall to allow for airflow.

The final consideration is noise. Put it this way, you could spend $25, but do you really want to live with a fan worthy of the exhaust system at KFC?

Last week Toronto hosted the Green Living Show, a consumer show featuring everything from greywater irrigation systems to renewable energy (solar, wind, water) to food made from organic ingredients. In other words, everything you need to live the eco existence, including a keynote address by none other than Bill Clinton, who headlined with top tips for living green.

Mixed in with the usual contenders—chemical-free cleaning supplies, organic sauces served up with pretzels (what show would be complete without these freebie stalls?), the seemingly un-ironic car companies touting their hybrid vehicles—was a single vendor selling a basic, low-tech idea: The Living Wall.

Like any wall system, The Living Wall acts as both a privacy screen and a noise dampener, except instead of being built out of synthetic materials (brick, steel, iron) this wall is made from willow shrubs that grow quickly, is easy to maintain (the stalks keep their shape and don’t require special watering) and are hardy enough to survive the both the heat of Houston and the frigid wrath of Winnipeg.

The concept behind The Living Wall is quite old, derived from the basic recipe of combining two-year-old willows with wooden posts, which provide stability and force the shoots to project upward and straight. The Wall can be as long as you want, planted as a single line or in rows for added privacy, or in combination with other organic wall systems (see more pictures here). Willows have a lifespan of about 30 to 40 years, so replanting is necessary; other than that, the only maintenance required is gentle trimming.

Completely organic and graffiti-proof, this carbon-dioxide absorber establishes itself quickly, blends in with nature and is cheap to build and maintain—clearly a winning combination when it comes to landscaping.

By now, global-warming naysayers are fringe folk who probably also believe the world is flat. We know the benefits of recycling, and energy efficiency has become the buzzword in home building and renovating. Your highly efficient stove and windows may cost more upfront, but the real savings—and your home’s resale value—come through reduced energy bills and increased life spans while also helping make the planet a better place.

But green building isn’t just about the planet—it’s also about the health of the homeowner. Newly renovated homes often have that “new car” smell, which is really a stew of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) often found in oil paint, as well as formaldehyde off-gassing from engineered wood, like the medium-density fibreboard (MDF) used to make kitchen cabinets and furniture.

According to the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation, indoor air quality—especially in tight, new homes—can be three to four times more polluted than outdoor air, which may be the reason 20 per cent of North Americans have some form of lung disorder, likely linked to dust and mold in your home. We spend an average of 90 per cent of our time indoors, either at work or at home, so eliminating VOCs is crucial.

Luckily, homeowners today have options not readily available even five years ago. Most paint, for example, is virtually VOC-free, and engineered wood such as MDF is now available without formaldehyde. For flooring, CMHC recommends hard surfaces, such as prefinished hardwood flooring, or ceramic tiles laid down using a low-toxin grout. The reason: hard surfaces are easier to clean, they don’t collect dust as easily as carpet and they are last longer, which means, beyond better air quality, you’re also reducing repair costs and trips to the dump to plonk worn-out carpet.

The U.S. National Institutes of Health website includes a page dedicated to household products and toxins. Click Products and then choose Inside the Home (for bathroom, kitchen, etc.) or Home Maintenance (for grout, insulation, paint, etc.).

Still unsure how indoor air quality relates to you or how you can easily reduce harmful VOCs? Health Canada has a section containing information, resources, and even a few quizzes to help you get your air quality where you want it to be.

Up next in the Part 3 of the Green Your Home series: the appliances available that keep you feeling good about the earth.

Ask Sam, The Service Expert

Q. If my home’s air is uncomfortable, what will you look for?

A. We’ll evaluate your home’s air against many criteria including humidity, moisture, airflow, filtration, ductwork and carbon monoxide using our exclusive Home HealthReport™ Card.

Q. Is humidity that big of a deal?

A. It sure is. Humidity levels affect your comfort and health inside as much as they do outside. Too much can promote mildew growth. Too little can dry skin, make throats sore and cause respiratory problems. In other words, humidity levels need to be balanced in order to feel comfortable at normal temperature settings.

Q. Our basement always seems damp. Does that matter?

A. Yes. It can become a breeding ground for microbes and contaminants that can lead to severe respiratory problems, allergies and even immune system disorders. You may need to put in a moisture barrier and then a dehumidification system.

Q. How does inadequate air flow effect my inside comfort?

A. It can cause poor heating and air conditioning equipment performance or increased energy consumption. It could also lead to things like improper humidity levels, an uncomfortable home and higher utility bills. By measuring your home’s air flow, a NATE-certified technician can determine what changes need to be made in your system to ensure maximum comfort and energy efficiency.

Q. Do I need more than the ’standard’ filter in my furnace?

A. Possibly. Without adequate filtration, expensive heating and cooling equipment can become clogged and lead to decreased efficiency, higher utility costs and potentially expensive repairs. The wrong filter could also cause dust buildup that can make your family susceptible to colds, allergies and respiratory disorders.

Q. I noticed some damage to my ductwork. Is that a problem?

A. Yes. If ducts are damaged or improperly sealed or insulated, they can waste energy and draw pollutants into your home, then distribute them to every room.

Q. How can I protect my family from carbon monoxide?

A. Purchase a carbon monoxide detector. In addition, have your gas appliances checked to determine if theyare properly ventilated.