My friend Antony and I often joke about the pleasant feeling evoked by a “Canadian Basement.” You know what I mean: dark, wood panelling, old curtains, shag rugs and often a hint of brown-orange-yellow. Step downstairs and it’s 1976.

Yes, some nostalgia is fine, but when your whole house starts reeking of a bygone era, it might be time for an overhaul into the new century.

The fine folks over at One Project Closer, a blog co-written by two married couples from Baltimore County, Maryland, tackled this very subject in a post about sanding away stipple ceilings.

Stipple ceilings were very popular in the late 1970s and 1980s as a simple, cheap way for homebuilders and cutoff jeans–wearing DIYers to finish a drywall or sheetrock ceiling without having to mud or sand the drywall joints. Often confused with popcorn or spray-on ceilings, stipple ceilings are renowned for great acoustic properties (they reduce room echo) but the porous, crater-like texture looks dated, too space-like, too 1970s, too, well, I hate to use this word, groovy.

If your home was built before 1990, chances are it’s still got some outdated designs. While my heart belongs to wood paneling, some people—most people—aren’t keen on the dark, dingy look, so the panels are the first to go, replaced by drywall or painted over.

Next stop, bathrooms with outdated bulky cabinets and enough sinks to please the Solid Gold Dancers. As a general rule, getting rid of a cluttered look with big drawers is Step 1 in any bathroom update.

Of course, ceilings and counters aren’t the only parts of your home that can quickly look dated. Walls, especially wallpaper-covered ones, can look out of style before the glue dries. But then again, recovering walls with paint or paper is also the quickest way to bring something from 1978 to 2008 in a weekend.

So now that your home is completely up-to-date, ever wonder which of its features will look dated in 10 years?

Ah, springtime. The melting of snow, the sprouting of tulips, the return to life for many of us … and when I say “us,” I’m not just talking human beings. Spring cleaning can unearth unwanted house guests such as termites and carpenter ants that have been sleeping—that is, burrowing, building nests—in your walls and floors.

According to the Termite Institute, termites are a $5 billion problem for homeowners. Perhaps an even bigger problem, ants—not just carpenter but 10 different species that can threaten homes—are capable of infesting and multiplying at rapid rates. You know what I mean if you’ve ever left a can of pop open outside in summertime, or dropped fruit scraps in the kitchen; in mere hours, ants are at the scene like paparazzi on Britney (another unwanted, gross house guest).

Besides entomologists and Gary Larson fans, nobody wants to talk about pests unless you’re already facing an infestation; however, because termites and ants can strike without warning, even the best-kept homes are at risk.

The Termite Institute and the Ant Institute are trying to change all this by speaking out to homeowners about these pesky pests, providing homeowners with identification, prevention and eradication information. Especially interesting, both websites offer live web cameras that vividly simulate what it would be like if either bug moved in.

If you’ve read this far, you’re either worried about infestation or already dealing with one. Horror stories certainly abound across the Web, from those dealing with ongoing struggles that want to share their knowledge, to notification of goings on Down Under, where admittedly, the bugs look a whole lot scarier. For elimination of termites, the University of Kentucky’s Department of Entomology has a straightforward guide for homeowners, including how to deal with the problem and how to prevent it from happening in the first place.

The University has a similar site for ants, again directed right at homeowners. Why so generous, Kentucky? Maybe it’s all that tasty blue grass.

Ask Sam, The Service Expert

Q. If my home’s air is uncomfortable, what will you look for?

A. We’ll evaluate your home’s air against many criteria including humidity, moisture, airflow, filtration, ductwork and carbon monoxide using our exclusive Home HealthReport™ Card.

Q. Is humidity that big of a deal?

A. It sure is. Humidity levels affect your comfort and health inside as much as they do outside. Too much can promote mildew growth. Too little can dry skin, make throats sore and cause respiratory problems. In other words, humidity levels need to be balanced in order to feel comfortable at normal temperature settings.

Q. Our basement always seems damp. Does that matter?

A. Yes. It can become a breeding ground for microbes and contaminants that can lead to severe respiratory problems, allergies and even immune system disorders. You may need to put in a moisture barrier and then a dehumidification system.

Q. How does inadequate air flow effect my inside comfort?

A. It can cause poor heating and air conditioning equipment performance or increased energy consumption. It could also lead to things like improper humidity levels, an uncomfortable home and higher utility bills. By measuring your home’s air flow, a NATE-certified technician can determine what changes need to be made in your system to ensure maximum comfort and energy efficiency.

Q. Do I need more than the ’standard’ filter in my furnace?

A. Possibly. Without adequate filtration, expensive heating and cooling equipment can become clogged and lead to decreased efficiency, higher utility costs and potentially expensive repairs. The wrong filter could also cause dust buildup that can make your family susceptible to colds, allergies and respiratory disorders.

Q. I noticed some damage to my ductwork. Is that a problem?

A. Yes. If ducts are damaged or improperly sealed or insulated, they can waste energy and draw pollutants into your home, then distribute them to every room.

Q. How can I protect my family from carbon monoxide?

A. Purchase a carbon monoxide detector. In addition, have your gas appliances checked to determine if theyare properly ventilated.

More people are killed or injured in fires than all the burglaries of homes or businesses combined. Smoke & soot damage will consume every square inch of your home. I had a neighbour who had a fire and clothes packed in suitcases still got damaged with soot. They were far removed from the actual fire. So it is important to add fire protection to your security system.

Most smoke detectors security alarm companies use is different than the ones sold in hardware stores. They measure the quality of the air electronically. They usually can detect a fire as opposed to fumes using this method is much better. When a fire is detected, the fire department is notified even sometimes before you the home owner know you have a fire. The internal siren in the home alerts your family of the fire. Most alarm systems give intermittent short blasts if there is a fire as opposed to a steady sound of the siren. This also lets you know even in a deep sleep that when the siren goes off, you know it’s a fire instead of a break-in.

It is important where you place these devices. Some cities have codes stating you have to have one for each bedroom. Most of the time they are installed in a common hallway outside of the bedrooms.

Another device is called a heat rise or heat sensor. Most of these devices operate sensing the heat of the air surrounding them. There are two kinds. The first device will detect a fire if the heat rises to a certain temperature. The other device will activate if there is a sudden change of temperature from a certain degree to another.

These devices are placed in areas like kitchens, garages, attics, basements near the furnace, utility rooms, and any where you have a heater or flammable materials.

Every family should have a fire drill every so often. Each member of the family should know all exits. Have a place where you meet outside, like at the mail box, so you know everyone has gotten out. Many people have lost their lives going back into a burning home thinking that someone is still in the home when actually they were out but on the other side of the home.

Keep in mind that most insurance companies give discounts if you have a security system installed in your home or business. The more levels of protection could mean a greater discount on your insurance. So an investment in a complete security system could mean a substantial savings over the years plus the “peace of mind” knowing you’re protected.

Get a FREE* ADT Alarm System worth over $850, with a $99* installation fee, and $ 0 activation fee, 24/7 Immediate Emergency Medical, Police and Fire Response, 2 Way Voice Enabled Control Centre and much more. Please visit: http://www.apexdirect.ca/promos/3 to get a FREE, no obligation Life Safety System quote or call us at 1 888 496 9488

If you are considering renovating your home, buying a home to renovate, or flipping a house, this will give you some insight as to what it really takes to do a total home renovation.

Week 3 and 4
After gutting the entire interior of the house, the wiring, and plumbing, needs to be replaced. Seeming these are things that I am not willing to allow my husband to do, in fear that he might blow himself or the house up, we brought in the professionals!

After these two weeks, the stress scale hit a nine on the stress “o” meter. Some problems we came across were:

Issue #1 was finding a good plumber and electrician. No easy task! There are a number of excellent resources available such as the Home Renovation Guide that can make the search easier, but we knew that with the amount of work that was apparent, both these teams would be in the house for at least a week each.

The Plumber!
The plumber was great in the end. After 5 days they had completed all that was needed (which was everything!). Every pipe in the house was replaced, as it had been 80 years since anything had been. Additionally, the hot water tank needed to be move to open up the space in the laundry room, the basin sinks relocated to accommodate the washer dryer, and a drain needed to be dug up in the basement and run out side, to eliminate further water damage, and the list ran on, and on, and on.

Issues Encountered
The main pipe that ran from the basement, up through the kitchen, and then up into the bathroom, was rotten! This was something that we thought (the plumbers and us), would have been okay as it was the original cast iron pipe. Of course with replacement, come added costs, and more time. However, replacing this also eliminated the smell of urine that was so predominate.

The second major problem we ran into was in the basement. As mentioned earlier a drain needed to be created outside that would act as a place for the water run off instead of going into the basement. Once they began digging the way for the pipe, they realized that the pipe they were going to link to was broken. So add another day, and more money.

Over all because we supplied the materials, and were able to work out flat rates with them, we were only $245 over the plumbing budget, but still had significant savings from the original quote.

Electrical
Well, knob-and-tube is just as confusing as it sounds. Who really knows how it works, and why it was legal? With the condition of the knob and tube, the house would have burned down long before the breaker went … words right from the electrician.

Again, we supplied the materials, which helped save money, but it was also time consuming because there were things that we could not find easily. That said, here are some of the “fun” encounters we had:

• Time - these guys are not timely! As patience is a virtue, one in which I try hard to possess, without success, this was terrible for me! They make their own schedule, and seemed to have dragged things on for over two weeks, while it could have been done in 5 days if they worked consecutive days.

• Of course, there were problems! Trying to feed the new lines through the house prompted some harsh words under the breath of the electrical team. Because of the board and batten walls that currently existed, it was not easy to get the lines up. Moreover, the existing electrical in the house was sparse, so there were a lot of new light fixtures, switches and outlets put in to get the house up to code.

In the end, the electrician has to come back once more after the drywall is finished to put up the faceplates and futures.

Well, these two weeks were not as exciting as next week, when we stop demolishing and start rebuilding! Yep, the walls are going up, and the exterior is being started.

Suggestions
Here are a few suggestions to make sure that your stress “o” meter doesn’t hit the 10!

• Ask if you can supply the materials. This saved us a great deal of money by avoiding the mark-up of at least 10%.

• Ask if you can pay a flat rate instead of by the hour. That way they want the job done speedily as well.

• Get at least 2 quotes to hear out any suggestions that they may have. Contractors can tell you how to save space, money and time if you listen, and you can see what they offer that is different if the prices really vary.

• Lastly, you are going to have to interact with the people you hire, so like them! Money is not always the deciding factor, your sanity is too…

If you are considering renovating your home, buying a home to renovate, or flipping a house, this will give you some insight as to what it really takes to do a total home renovation.

Week Two

The homes interior needed to be completely gutted. After speaking to some of the neighbours, we discovered that there were 10 illegal immigrants renting small sections of a room, so they wound up dividing bedrooms into 2 or 3 very small spaces to rent out more spaces. Along the way there were some surprises; here is what happened.

Knowing that it was a physically challenging job, and that don’t come close to having my husbands strength, we started with the upstairs. This way the thinks that took the most energy I could do right away.

The small room on the upstairs addition previously used as a second kitchen to accommodate more people. We removed the sink, walls, and ceiling. One pleasant surprise was the ceiling under the pressboard. It was actually usable! Updating the windows to create a beautiful solarium looking over the back yard, this can be an office or baby area. The exposed brink will add a unique feeling to a small but great space.

The bedroom attached to this area was sectioned off, creating a walkway to the makeshift kitchen. We took down the way, and we very happy to see that they had not destroyed the hardwood floors that we are refinishing. They did however reinforce that wall into the molding around the door, so all of that has to be replaced.

Once we were able to open the room up a bit, we starting by demolishing the wall connected to the bathroom. Any stress that I had, I put to good use, as this wall was all board and baton plaster so required some serious strength.

One thing to remember when working with board and baton plaster, WEAR A MASK, or you get the black lung! It’s messy and not pleasant to breathe in!

Meanwhile, in the other two bedrooms, all the T Bar ceilings had to go. They are okay at an office, but not a home. Both the master and the larger of the other two rooms had limited closet space, so the master bedroom is getting a new wall-to-wall closet that is both functional and accommodating. The existing closet in the master bedroom now opens into the second bedroom so there is one large usable closet for added storage.

Now on to the fun stuff! The upstairs bathroom, in all its pink glory was completely town out, including the floorboards. This is where we noticed the weak floors that we need to replace. No light duty here, the tiles in the bathroom weighed a ton and was dragged down stairs and out the back into the dumpster.

After day one, the upstairs was finished and we were on to the main floor. In the front entrance, we decided that the hardwood was too damaged to repair, so marble tiles will be laid. Easier to keep clean and an warm welcome home. After removing the hardwood, we found more hard wood! Still too much damage from the 100+ nails per square inch, but it was a nice surprise that will save some money by not having to redo the entire area.

Next, we took out the living room doorway. It closed off the entire space and the fireplace in the living room can now be seen as soon as you walk in. Again, board and Baton plaster.

The dining room was already in good shape. Little needs to be done here so we were off to the Kitchen.

No small task, we tore out the kitchen. Cupboards, counters, and floor all needed to go. There was previous water damage so we took out some walls to ensure that everything was sealed up properly. We have yet to decide how to handle the century hardwood floors we found in the kitchen, originally we had intended on tile, however, the beautiful floors we discovered are priceless, and we hate to cover them up.

A small area of the kitchen converted to add a second bathroom, not a bad idea, however they had no lights so they added (and poorly) glass planes to allow the light in. Both the tub and toilet had to go. Its still a mystery where the sink was suppose to be. After much deliberation, we decided to move the bathroom into the back addition and make it a half bath, leaving much more room in the kitchen.

Day 2 was a long day spent mainly on the living room and kitchen, but will be worth it in the end.

By the end of the week we were tired, and swore, however the feeling of accomplishment was there making it worthwhile, and why the stress scale was only a 7.2.

Come back next week as we start framing and the electrical. Goodbye, knob and tube wiring!

Placing a sub floor over a concrete is one way to help you finish off your basement. The sub floor will act as a level base and not be as cold on the feet. When you’re getting ready, prepare the surrounding area properly, ensuring that water will not seep through to the concrete underneath.

Map It Out
Plan your renovation by drawing it out on some graph paper, using each square as per square. Calculate the number and length of 2″ x 3″ strips of wood required for the area of the basement. Then, measure and calculate the length and amount of 2″ x 3″ pieces needed for sleeper, which you will nail on 40 cm (16 inch) centres. Lastly, measure the number of 4′ x 8′ fibre or plywood pieces that you will need to cover the sub floor.

Waterproofing
Place 6mm polyethylene on top of the concrete to act as a barrier and prevent humidity to the ground floor. Be sure to leave about 4 inches of polyethylene along the side of each wall. This will prevent any further humidity damage.

Note: Instead of 6mm polyethylene, you can also use a 15 lb felt paper.

Framing
Build a sub floor frame throughout the basement along the floor. Using 2″ x 3″ strips of wood, place them directly on top of the 6mm polyethylene along each wall of the basement. Now, using a 16-inch centre, place sleepers throughout the frame, making sure that the first sleeper is 16 inches from the wall with the rest being 16 inches apart. Be sure to lay the sleeper in the direction to the smallest area of the room.

Making it Level
Make sure that the sleepers are level. You may have to use shims in order to get the entire floor leveled - this is very important. After they are leveled, anchor them to the concrete floor using a concrete drill or ramset. Allow a distance of 12 inches between each nail. Cut off the excess polyethylene with a utility knife. Using a pencil, mark the placement of each sleeper along the basement walls as a template for when the sheets of plywood.

Laying It All Down
Before laying down the fibre or plywood, ensure that they are 5/8″ thick. Also, apply a strong adhesive to each sleeper throughout the basement prior to laying the sheets down. Make sure that you stagger the plywood sheets from one sheet to the next, creating a stronger floor area. Place the sheets perpendicular to the sleepers, making sure that they are parallel to the shortest wall. Now, using the templated pencil marks, screw in the sheets of plywood to the sleepers and framing. Space out the screws approximately 12 inches while using 1-1/2″ wood screws.

You will be able to find or rent all the tools and materials at your local building supply store.

Chris Paulsen
cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com