air quality

A Beginner’s Guide on How to Paint a Room

September 30th, 2008  |  Published in DIY, air quality, decor, green, painting, walls

Painting your home interior may be as easy as paint by numbers for some, but for those uninitiated yet willing to give it a go (and save hundreds of dollars), having a bit of background knowledge is a boon.  This past weekend I painted my entire apartment.  It’s pretty small - only 3 rooms - so, I figured it would be a breeze.  Wrong.  I’m sure that as with most other people, the assumption may be that painting is a no-brainer and hey with a roller, fast too.  While it isn’t rocket science, there are a few pointers that can be very helpful (which I now wish I’d had before hand) for first timers.painting A Beginners Guide on How to Paint a Room

I suppose you might want to start out with how to pick colours.  Although I flirted with some ideas of setting a Mediterranean Island feel/California terra-cotta look, in the end I went with a light cream to open up the rooms which had been previously coloured light olive, mauve, and yellow - all hideous shades.

If you’re not sure about which colours you’d like, or even where to begin, you can watch Mag Ruffman’s video tips or read the article. She basically recommends using more than an itty bitty paint chip as a reference.  For further reiteration Style at Home’s article also suggests viewing your chosen hue in different lighting.

Now that you’re sure about the colour(s), what other tools do you need?

1. masking tape

2. drop cloth

3. wall brush & trim and sash brush

4. roller

5. painting paint

6. cleaning supplies

Perusing a number of articles, I was surprised to learn that a number of professionals suggest washing your walls first.  Or, if the existing paint is glossy, you might have to wash with a special solution or else the new paint may not even adhere properly.

I also asked around and the general consensus was to cover everything of importance with a plastic drop cloth, cover edges with masking tape, cut the edges (line with paint) and then fill in the rest with a roller.

I thought this was all I needed to know.  Instead this is what happened …

Top 5 things I learned about painting:

1.  Make sure you have enough paint.

Seems obvious right?  Well, you might not want to end up with a bathroom door and one bedroom wall baby blue as I did.

2. Go towards the light:

Daylight reveals imperfections that are hidden in dim lighting that you’ll be quick to want to correct.

3. Tape the edges:

It will actually save you time in the long run.  I thought that painting the baseboards would be easy since as a fine art painter, I can draw straight lines on canvas no problem.  But as I cut across the baseboards, the effort it took to wipe up dribbles each time it happened collectively took longer than the couple of minutes it would have taken to put down tape in the first place.

4. Don’t overload the roller

Dipping your roller where the paint starts to pool in your paint tray and rolling it until the paint covers it thinly and evenly, tip it so that joint where it attaches is pointing to the ceiling as this will help to avoid gobs on the floor.

5. Start from the Middle

When applying paint with a roller, start about midway on the wall, roll upwards first, then pull down - this way the paint has less of a chance of running onto the floor.

Looking for more detailed instructions? One of my go-to sites - sort of like an online Dummies equivalant - HowStuffWorks.com has a great section on various aspects of painting.

For a host of painting tips, paint decor ideas, the low down on paint, materials, accessories and more, the Home Renovation Guide’s article library painting section is chock full of useful information; from the difference between Latex vs. Elastomeric Paint or the secrets to How to Make a Room Look Larger with Paint.

I wish I had been armed with all of this information, so I hope this post will help out others out there with the determination to beautify their space with paint.  When all is said and done, next time, I’d seriously consider just hiring a professional.

Beat the Heat

June 23rd, 2008  |  Published in DIY, air quality, heating and cooling, tools

Having grown up in a house without air conditioning, I know what it’s like to sweat through hot nights and loud fans. This was a time before the efficient, quiet fans now common; back in the day, we put loud, plane-propeller-size units in the window and on the floor hoping for a bit of air movement, just enough to pass out.

Luckily, I’ve found better way to keep cool. I still don’t have air condition, mind you, but I like it that way; besides, I’ve found a more efficient, less energy-taxing solution: the ceiling fan. Installed the right way, in the right place, these inexpensive and easy-to-install devices will keep you cool and save you cash.

Hot Summer

Unlike energy-hogging A/C units, electric ceiling fans don’t actually cool the air; rather, they move it around, which helps evaporate moisture, on your skin and on surfaces in your home, making things feel cooler. Ceiling fans also help draw up warm air, mixing it with cooler air for more moderate room temperatures, so you get gentle warmth without the frigid, synthetic feel of air conditioning. (In winter, switch blade direction and the fan will push down warm air rather than draw it up.)

Installation

Ceiling Fan Installation

Putting up a fan is as easy as installing a ceiling light—right? Not quite. Screwing into the existing junction box might not provide enough stability. After all, some of these fans weigh more than 30 pounds standing still; add in the pressure and vibration created by the spinning blades and you’re left with a dangerous spinning blade—to say nothing of an eyesore.

Instead of affixing directly into the existing junction box, attach the fan to something—a beam—that will securely handle the weight and motion of the fan. Of course, it will need to be hooked up for power, so if you’re at all unsure how to safely connect, especially if your fan is also a light, hire an electrician to come in for a quick, inexpensive inspection.

Right place, right fan

Ceiling fans aren’t one-size-fits-all; there are ceiling fans for every type of decor; ceiling fans operable by remote control; fans designed for sloped ceilings; fans with blades as big as canoe paddles—you name it, it exists. Unless you want to recreate the plane-blade scene in Raiders of the Lost Ark, the first consideration here is ceiling height. If your ceiling is less than eight feet, it’s too low for a ceiling fan. Also, the blade span should be no closer than two feet from the wall to allow for airflow.

The final consideration is noise. Put it this way, you could spend $25, but do you really want to live with a fan worthy of the exhaust system at KFC?

The Living Wall

April 28th, 2008  |  Published in air quality, green, walls

Last week Toronto hosted the Green Living Show, a consumer show featuring everything from greywater irrigation systems to renewable energy (solar, wind, water) to food made from organic ingredients. In other words, everything you need to live the eco existence, including a keynote address by none other than Bill Clinton, who headlined with top tips for living green.

Mixed in with the usual contenders—chemical-free cleaning supplies, organic sauces served up with pretzels (what show would be complete without these freebie stalls?), the seemingly un-ironic car companies touting their hybrid vehicles—was a single vendor selling a basic, low-tech idea: The Living Wall.

Like any wall system, The Living Wall acts as both a privacy screen and a noise dampener, except instead of being built out of synthetic materials (brick, steel, iron) this wall is made from willow shrubs that grow quickly, is easy to maintain (the stalks keep their shape and don’t require special watering) and are hardy enough to survive the both the heat of Houston and the frigid wrath of Winnipeg.

The concept behind The Living Wall is quite old, derived from the basic recipe of combining two-year-old willows with wooden posts, which provide stability and force the shoots to project upward and straight. The Wall can be as long as you want, planted as a single line or in rows for added privacy, or in combination with other organic wall systems (see more pictures here). Willows have a lifespan of about 30 to 40 years, so replanting is necessary; other than that, the only maintenance required is gentle trimming.

Completely organic and graffiti-proof, this carbon-dioxide absorber establishes itself quickly, blends in with nature and is cheap to build and maintain—clearly a winning combination when it comes to landscaping.

Green Your Home, Part 2: Indoor Air Quality

March 7th, 2008  |  Published in air quality, flooring, green, painting, remodeling, renovating

By now, global-warming naysayers are fringe folk who probably also believe the world is flat. We know the benefits of recycling, and energy efficiency has become the buzzword in home building and renovating. Your highly efficient stove and windows may cost more upfront, but the real savings—and your home’s resale value—come through reduced energy bills and increased life spans while also helping make the planet a better place.

But green building isn’t just about the planet—it’s also about the health of the homeowner. Newly renovated homes often have that “new car” smell, which is really a stew of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) often found in oil paint, as well as formaldehyde off-gassing from engineered wood, like the medium-density fibreboard (MDF) used to make kitchen cabinets and furniture.

According to the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation, indoor air quality—especially in tight, new homes—can be three to four times more polluted than outdoor air, which may be the reason 20 per cent of North Americans have some form of lung disorder, likely linked to dust and mold in your home. We spend an average of 90 per cent of our time indoors, either at work or at home, so eliminating VOCs is crucial.

Luckily, homeowners today have options not readily available even five years ago. Most paint, for example, is virtually VOC-free, and engineered wood such as MDF is now available without formaldehyde. For flooring, CMHC recommends hard surfaces, such as prefinished hardwood flooring, or ceramic tiles laid down using a low-toxin grout. The reason: hard surfaces are easier to clean, they don’t collect dust as easily as carpet and they are last longer, which means, beyond better air quality, you’re also reducing repair costs and trips to the dump to plonk worn-out carpet.

The U.S. National Institutes of Health website includes a page dedicated to household products and toxins. Click Products and then choose Inside the Home (for bathroom, kitchen, etc.) or Home Maintenance (for grout, insulation, paint, etc.).

Still unsure how indoor air quality relates to you or how you can easily reduce harmful VOCs? Health Canada has a section containing information, resources, and even a few quizzes to help you get your air quality where you want it to be.

Up next in the Part 3 of the Green Your Home series: the appliances available that keep you feeling good about the earth.

Q&A With The Service Experts

September 13th, 2007  |  Published in air quality, basement, heating and cooling

Ask Sam, The Service Expert

Q. If my home’s air is uncomfortable, what will you look for?

A. We’ll evaluate your home’s air against many criteria including humidity, moisture, airflow, filtration, ductwork and carbon monoxide using our exclusive Home HealthReport™ Card.

Q. Is humidity that big of a deal?

A. It sure is. Humidity levels affect your comfort and health inside as much as they do outside. Too much can promote mildew growth. Too little can dry skin, make throats sore and cause respiratory problems. In other words, humidity levels need to be balanced in order to feel comfortable at normal temperature settings.

Q. Our basement always seems damp. Does that matter?

A. Yes. It can become a breeding ground for microbes and contaminants that can lead to severe respiratory problems, allergies and even immune system disorders. You may need to put in a moisture barrier and then a dehumidification system.

Q. How does inadequate air flow effect my inside comfort?

A. It can cause poor heating and air conditioning equipment performance or increased energy consumption. It could also lead to things like improper humidity levels, an uncomfortable home and higher utility bills. By measuring your home’s air flow, a NATE-certified technician can determine what changes need to be made in your system to ensure maximum comfort and energy efficiency.

Q. Do I need more than the ’standard’ filter in my furnace?

A. Possibly. Without adequate filtration, expensive heating and cooling equipment can become clogged and lead to decreased efficiency, higher utility costs and potentially expensive repairs. The wrong filter could also cause dust buildup that can make your family susceptible to colds, allergies and respiratory disorders.

Q. I noticed some damage to my ductwork. Is that a problem?

A. Yes. If ducts are damaged or improperly sealed or insulated, they can waste energy and draw pollutants into your home, then distribute them to every room.

Q. How can I protect my family from carbon monoxide?

A. Purchase a carbon monoxide detector. In addition, have your gas appliances checked to determine if theyare properly ventilated.

Indoor air pollution

June 6th, 2007  |  Published in air quality, green

Do you realize that indoor air pollution can be worse than the pollution outdoors? Up to seventy percent worse? And with so many people allergic to items such as pollen and dust, if you can purify the air in the home, it is much better for you and your family.

A furnace air filter is one of the most common ways of cleaning the air in your home. But if you are going to buy one, stay away from the throw-away furnace types. Several (but to make it clear, not all) types of throw-away furnace air filters do not have any sealing capacities. This means that the smaller sized particles pass both through and around the air filter, causing the face of the filter to load up and not stopping the dust and pollen. Don’t buy a throw-away filter unless you are really sure it’s good.

So what other sort of furnace air filter can you buy? To start with, you really want to look for one with a high dust holding capacity, around 330 grams or more. Ring panel furnace air filters are pretty good. They have a great sealing ability and a tight fit when fitted into the air filter slot. The tight fit ensures that all the air passes through the filter, rather than around it, stopping the pollen, dust and all those other little things that can cause allergies.

A permanent washable furnace filter is another good idea. Of course, over time the more that you wash it the less effective it usually becomes, but they do last for a while. And you haven’t got any messy filter to throw away when it needs to be replaced. So the washable furnace filter is an environmentally friendly option, as well as non-allergenic.

One big downside to most furnace filters is that most of them do not remove or lessen some of the main causes of allergies in the house. I am speaking primarily to people who are allergic to dust mites or cats. If you are one of them, then maybe a furnace air filter is not the right kind of filter for you.

On the upside, these types of filters are some of the cheapest to run, so if ongoing cost is a main consideration for you, check out these filters. The furnace air filters also have a reputation for not emitting ozone. Good if you are environmentally aware.

101: Floor Care and Maintenance

April 19th, 2007  |  Published in air quality, flooring, maintanence

Taking care of your new flooring will keep it looking new for years. It is so important to take proper care of it. Please refer to the below guide which will help you.

Ceramic Tile & Sheet Vinyl
Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove dirt & grit.
Wash floor with suitable mild cleaner.
(Do not use vinegar or bleach).
Wipe up spills promptly with a damp cloth or mop.

Carpet

Regular carpet maintenance can enhance indoor air quality and prevent premature deterioration.

Vacuum and spot clean daily.
Implement a preventative maintenance program.
Steam clean when necessary.

Hardwood & Laminate Flooring

Control and monitor indoor humidity.
Use felt pads on furniture.
Vacuum and sweep regularly.
Only use hardwood and laminate floor cleaners.

Chris Paulsen

Air Filtration

April 17th, 2007  |  Published in air quality

There are all kinds of particles floating around in our air that should not be entering our homes. Particles such as viruses, bacteria, dust, dander and pollen, as well as airborne chemicals like formaldehyde and benzene can all be harmful to our health. These contaminants are drawn into the filter and are caught in the electrically charged media pads. The glass fibre pads act as a magnet, capturing even the smallest of particles.

According to the NAFA (National Air Filtration Association), 95 to 98% of indoor air is made up of particles smaller than one micron - including most of the worst toxins, bacteria, viruses and lung-damaging dust.

If we took 0.1 cubic feet of air, here’s approximately how many particles would be found at the following micron sizes:

27,000 particles at the 0.3 - 0.5 micron level
4,500 particles at the 0.5-1.0 micron level
500 particles at the 1.5 micron level
20 particles at the 5-10 micron level
A few at the 10-25 micron level

In order for this to sink in, let’s put it into context. We know that 95 - 98% of indoor air is made up of particles smaller than one micron. How big is a micron, anyway? Put it this way. The size of a human strand of hair is 70 microns. So, unless you’re Superman, you can’t physically see any of the evil floating around in the air.

Many air filter companies say they are “95% efficient at 1 micron” - which really means they are collecting less than 2% of the harmful airborne particulates. That’s not helping you! Knowing the details of what you want to eliminate will help you ensure that your home is as healthy as possible.

Your Home’s Air Quality

April 13th, 2007  |  Published in air quality

humidity_chart_small-725087 Your Homes Air Quality

Improving the air
doesn’t stop with pollutants.
It’s also important
to consider moisture levels.

You know when your home’s air is too hot or cold. That is because you feel uncomfortable. But the amount of moisture in your home’s air also has an impact on the way you feel, plus it can have a major effect on your health.

Too much
High moisture levels can make your home feel stuffy and create a breeding ground for mold, mildew, dust mites and bacteria. Recent studies have shown that mold can cause or worsen asthma, as well as hay fever and other allergies*.

Too little
Dry air makes furniture shrink, warp and crack. Plus, it causes skin irritation and respiratory problems,** not to mention annoying static shocks.

Just right
For optimal comfort and health, studies show that moisture levels should be in the range of 35% to 50%. You can track your home’s humidity with a hygrometer, available at hardware and home improvement stores. Or, you can contact your local Service Experts professional for in-home consultation.

*American Academy of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology, 2004

**Exposure to excessively dry air (relative humidity of less than 20%) can cause respiratory irritation. Source: American Academy of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology

Article is courtesy Service Experts Canada - Toronto, Mississauga and Ottawa Heating and Cooling specialists

Indoor Air Ventilation - Clean Air Information

April 10th, 2007  |  Published in air quality

Children exposed to dangerous air at home. Survey finds homeowners still unaware of indoor air risks

Drummondville (Quebec) - According to a recent survey by the Canadian Lung Association, 90% of homeowners polled were not aware that exposure to poor indoor air quality can lead to major health problems. Results from the study proved that the concept of indoor air pollution remains relatively ambiguous to most homeowners.

Gerry Gagnon, Product & Market Manager for Venmar Ventilation, the leader in state-of-the-art air ventilation systems, explains: “Most people feel safe in their homes and simply put, affiliate air toxins with the outdoor environment particularly with concern for acid rain, ozone, smog etc. Overall, little emphasis is placed on the possibility of indoor health related illness, except in regard to the ambient air or toxic exposures in the work place.”

Despite this commonly held belief; there is now growing evidence that indoor air pollution can adversely affect human health. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has determined that indoor pollution may be 100 times higher than pollution outside.

Today’s well-insulated homes only exacerbate the problem as they often lack the ability to “breathe” freely. Changes in construction methods driven by energy and efficiency issues since the 1970s, combined with traditional construction materials and finishes being used, “seal inside” the allergens, irritants, and toxins, driving the astronomical increases in respiratory disorders being seen today.

Different homes have different problem areas. In most cases, homes have an overly humid basement that breeds molds and other unhealthy micro-organisms. According to the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation more than 50 per cent of all homes show visible signs of high levels of basement humidity.

A recent report by the Commission for Environmental Co-operation found that asthma rates among children in North America are now four times higher than they were 20 years ago.
Experts believe the reason for these staggering increases in respiratory illness have to do with the fact that we spend 90% of our time indoors, surrounded by a vast array of indoor pollutant sources. High amounts of chemicals, moisture, allergens and molds, can contribute to indoor air pollution and are linked to a series of lung problems such as asthma, chemical sensitivities and allergies.

As it stands, it is up to the homeowner to contend with health problems attributed to indoor air pollution. According to Gagnon, the most assured and practical way to clean indoor air is to invest in an air exchanger system that will filter out harmful pollutants and distribute fresh air throughout the home. The latest technology in indoor air management is the Venmar air exchanger which combines the benefits of both HEPA filtration and ventilation. This system evacuates polluted indoor air and replaces it with fresh, filtered, outdoor air by trapping airborne allergens such as pollen, dust, pet dander mold and bacteria. Excess humidity during the cold season as well as harmful gaseous pollutants not trapped by the system’s HEPA filter are also drawn outside and eliminated.

More information is available at http://www.venmar.ca/