My friend Antony and I often joke about the pleasant feeling evoked by a “Canadian Basement.” You know what I mean: dark, wood panelling, old curtains, shag rugs and often a hint of brown-orange-yellow. Step downstairs and it’s 1976.

Yes, some nostalgia is fine, but when your whole house starts reeking of a bygone era, it might be time for an overhaul into the new century.

The fine folks over at One Project Closer, a blog co-written by two married couples from Baltimore County, Maryland, tackled this very subject in a post about sanding away stipple ceilings.

Stipple ceilings were very popular in the late 1970s and 1980s as a simple, cheap way for homebuilders and cutoff jeans–wearing DIYers to finish a drywall or sheetrock ceiling without having to mud or sand the drywall joints. Often confused with popcorn or spray-on ceilings, stipple ceilings are renowned for great acoustic properties (they reduce room echo) but the porous, crater-like texture looks dated, too space-like, too 1970s, too, well, I hate to use this word, groovy.

If your home was built before 1990, chances are it’s still got some outdated designs. While my heart belongs to wood paneling, some people—most people—aren’t keen on the dark, dingy look, so the panels are the first to go, replaced by drywall or painted over.

Next stop, bathrooms with outdated bulky cabinets and enough sinks to please the Solid Gold Dancers. As a general rule, getting rid of a cluttered look with big drawers is Step 1 in any bathroom update.

Of course, ceilings and counters aren’t the only parts of your home that can quickly look dated. Walls, especially wallpaper-covered ones, can look out of style before the glue dries. But then again, recovering walls with paint or paper is also the quickest way to bring something from 1978 to 2008 in a weekend.

So now that your home is completely up-to-date, ever wonder which of its features will look dated in 10 years?

Ah, springtime. The melting of snow, the sprouting of tulips, the return to life for many of us … and when I say “us,” I’m not just talking human beings. Spring cleaning can unearth unwanted house guests such as termites and carpenter ants that have been sleeping—that is, burrowing, building nests—in your walls and floors.

According to the Termite Institute, termites are a $5 billion problem for homeowners. Perhaps an even bigger problem, ants—not just carpenter but 10 different species that can threaten homes—are capable of infesting and multiplying at rapid rates. You know what I mean if you’ve ever left a can of pop open outside in summertime, or dropped fruit scraps in the kitchen; in mere hours, ants are at the scene like paparazzi on Britney (another unwanted, gross house guest).

Besides entomologists and Gary Larson fans, nobody wants to talk about pests unless you’re already facing an infestation; however, because termites and ants can strike without warning, even the best-kept homes are at risk.

The Termite Institute and the Ant Institute are trying to change all this by speaking out to homeowners about these pesky pests, providing homeowners with identification, prevention and eradication information. Especially interesting, both websites offer live web cameras that vividly simulate what it would be like if either bug moved in.

If you’ve read this far, you’re either worried about infestation or already dealing with one. Horror stories certainly abound across the Web, from those dealing with ongoing struggles that want to share their knowledge, to notification of goings on Down Under, where admittedly, the bugs look a whole lot scarier. For elimination of termites, the University of Kentucky’s Department of Entomology has a straightforward guide for homeowners, including how to deal with the problem and how to prevent it from happening in the first place.

The University has a similar site for ants, again directed right at homeowners. Why so generous, Kentucky? Maybe it’s all that tasty blue grass.

More people are killed or injured in fires than all the burglaries of homes or businesses combined. Smoke & soot damage will consume every square inch of your home. I had a neighbour who had a fire and clothes packed in suitcases still got damaged with soot. They were far removed from the actual fire. So it is important to add fire protection to your security system.

Most smoke detectors security alarm companies use is different than the ones sold in hardware stores. They measure the quality of the air electronically. They usually can detect a fire as opposed to fumes using this method is much better. When a fire is detected, the fire department is notified even sometimes before you the home owner know you have a fire. The internal siren in the home alerts your family of the fire. Most alarm systems give intermittent short blasts if there is a fire as opposed to a steady sound of the siren. This also lets you know even in a deep sleep that when the siren goes off, you know it’s a fire instead of a break-in.

It is important where you place these devices. Some cities have codes stating you have to have one for each bedroom. Most of the time they are installed in a common hallway outside of the bedrooms.

Another device is called a heat rise or heat sensor. Most of these devices operate sensing the heat of the air surrounding them. There are two kinds. The first device will detect a fire if the heat rises to a certain temperature. The other device will activate if there is a sudden change of temperature from a certain degree to another.

These devices are placed in areas like kitchens, garages, attacks, basements near the furnace, utility rooms, and any where you have a heater or flammable materials.

Every family should have a fire drill every so often. Each member of the family should know all exits. Have a place where you meet outside, like at the mail box, so you know everyone has gotten out. Many people have lost their lives going back into a burning home thinking that someone is still in the home when actually they were out but on the other side of the home.
Keep in mind that most insurance companies give discounts if you have a security system installed in your home or business. The more levels of protection could mean a greater discount on your insurance. So an investment in a complete security system could mean a substantial savings over the years plus the “peace of mind” knowing you’re protected.

Get a FREE* ADT Alarm System worth over $850, with a $99* installation fee, and $ 0 activation fee, 24/7 Immediate Emergency Medical, Police and Fire Response, 2 Way Voice Enabled Control Centre and much more. Please visit: http://www.apexdirect.ca/promos/3 to get a FREE, no obligation Life Safety System quote or call us at 1 888 496 9488

If you are considering renovating your home, buying a home to renovate, or flipping a house, this will give you some incite as to what it really takes to do a total home renovation.

Week Two

The homes interior needed to be completely gutted. After speaking to some of the neighbours, we discovered that there were 10 illegal immigrants renting small sections of a room, so they wound up dividing bedrooms into 2 or 3 very small spaces to rent out more spaces. Along the way there were some surprises; here is what happened.

Knowing that it was a physically challenging job, and that don’t come close to having my husbands strength, we started with the upstairs. This way the thinks that took the most energy I could do right away.

The small room on the upstairs addition previously used as a second kitchen to accommodate more people. We removed the sink, walls, and ceiling. One pleasant surprise was the ceiling under the pressboard. It was actually usable! Updating the windows to create a beautiful solarium looking over the back yard, this can be an office or baby area. The exposed brink will add a unique feeling to a small but great space.

The bedroom attached to this area was sectioned off, creating a walkway to the makeshift kitchen. We took down the way, and we very happy to see that they had not destroyed the hardwood floors that we are refinishing. They did however reinforce that wall into the molding around the door, so all of that has to be replaced.

Once we were able to open the room up a bit, we starting by demolishing the wall connected to the bathroom. Any stress that I had, I put to good use, as this wall was all board and baton plaster so required some serious strength.

One thing to remember when working with board and baton plaster, WEAR A MASK, or you get the black lung! It’s messy and not pleasant to breathe in!

Meanwhile, in the other 2 bedrooms all the T Bar ceilings had to go. It is okay of an office but not a home. Both the master and the larger of the other two rooms had limited closet space, so the master bedroom is getting a new wall-to-wall closet that is both functional and accommodating. The existing closet in the master bedroom now opens into the second bedroom so there is one large usable closet for added storage.

Now on to the fun stuff! The upstairs bathroom, in all its pink glory was completely town out, including the floorboards. This is where we noticed the weak floors that we need to replace. No light duty here, the tiles in the bathroom weighed a ton and was dragged down stairs and out the back into the dumpster.

After day one, the upstairs was finished and we were on to the main floor. In the front entrance, we decided that the hardwood was too damaged to repair, so marble tiles will be laid. Easier to keep clean and an warm welcome home. After removing the hardwood, we found more hard wood! Still too much damage from the 100+ nails per square inch, but it was a nice surprise that will save some money by not having to redo the entire area.

Next, we took out the living room doorway. It closed off the entire space and the fireplace in the living room can now be seen as soon as you walk in. Again, board and Baton plaster.

The dining room was already in good shape. Little needs to be done here so we were off to the Kitchen.

No small task, we tore out the kitchen. Cupboards, counters, and floor all needed to go. There was previous water damage so we took out some walls to ensure that everything was sealed up properly. We have yet to decide how to handle the century hardwood floors we found in the kitchen, originally we had intended on tile, however, the beautiful floors we discovered are priceless, and we hate to cover them up.

A small area of the kitchen converted to add a second bathroom, not a bad idea, however they had no lights so they added (and poorly) glass planes to allow the light in. Both the tub and toilet had to go. Its still a mystery where the sink was suppose to be. After much deliberation, we decided to move the bathroom into the back addition and make it a half bath, leaving much more room in the kitchen.

Day 2 was a long day spent mainly on the living room and kitchen, but will be worth it in the end.

By the end of the week we were tired, and swore, however the feeling of accomplishment was there making it worthwhile, and why the stress scale was only a 7.2.

Come back next week as we start framing and the electrical. Good bye knob and tube wiring.

Placing a sub floor over a concrete is one way to help you finish off your basement. The sub floor will act as a level base and not be as cold on the feet. When you’re getting ready, prepare the surrounding area properly, ensuring that water will not seep through to the concrete underneath.

Map It Out
Plan your renovation by drawing it out on some graph paper, using each square as per square. Calculate the number and length of 2″ x 3″ strips of wood required for the area of the basement. Then, measure and calculate the length and amount of 2″ x 3″ pieces needed for sleeper, which you will nail on 40 cm (16 inch) centres. Lastly, measure the number of 4′ x 8′ fibre or plywood pieces that you will need to cover the sub floor.

Waterproofing
Place 6mm polyethylene on top of the concrete to act as a barrier and prevent humidity to the ground floor. Be sure to leave about 4 inches of polyethylene along the side of each wall. This will prevent any further humidity damage.

Note: Instead of 6mm polyethylene, you can also use a 15 lb felt paper.

Framing
Build a sub floor frame throughout the basement along the floor. Using 2″ x 3″ strips of wood, place them directly on top of the 6mm polyethylene along each wall of the basement. Now, using a 16-inch centre, place sleepers throughout the frame, making sure that the first sleeper is 16 inches from the wall with the rest being 16 inches apart. Be sure to lay the sleeper in the direction to the smallest area of the room.

Making it Level
Make sure that the sleepers are level. You may have to use shims in order to get the entire floor leveled - this is very important. After they are leveled, anchor them to the concrete floor using a concrete drill or ramset. Allow a distance of 12 inches between each nail. Cut off the excess polyethylene with a utility knife. Using a pencil, mark the placement of each sleeper along the basement walls as a template for when the sheets of plywood.

Laying It All Down
Before laying down the fibre or plywood, ensure that they are 5/8″ thick. Also, apply a strong adhesive to each sleeper throughout the basement prior to laying the sheets down. Make sure that you stagger the plywood sheets from one sheet to the next, creating a stronger floor area. Place the sheets perpendicular to the sleepers, making sure that they are parallel to the shortest wall. Now, using the templated pencil marks, screw in the sheets of plywood to the sleepers and framing. Space out the screws approximately 12 inches while using 1-1/2″ wood screws.

You will be able to find or rent all the tools and materials at your local building supply store.

Chris Paulsen
cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com

It usually happens that when you buy your first home, you were thinking about your current situation. A few short years later, you are feeling cramped and debating between renovating or moving. Most people like their area and do not want to move, but feel that renovating can be costly. In addition, they lack the liquid cash to do so, making selling and moving seem like the better option.

Another consideration is a renovation loan. This can be added to you mortgage payment in small amounts that will add up to less than the cost of purchasing a new home.

Since 1994, the cost of buying a home has increased 3.7% per year*. That is 48.1% over the past 13 years. Moreover, the savings from the real estate agent to sell your current home and purchase a new one can be $10,000 or more**.

Continue to add in your new moving costs of $ 2,000 - 5,000, depending on the distance*, and your renovation seems more and more affordable.

The instant savings of not moving and paying a real estate agent already have saved you over $12,000. Add that to the budget for a home makeover, and you can add in a new level, upgrade your kitchen, finish your basement, or create an en-suite so you have the added privacy you crave.

nrollins@homerenovationguide.com

*Source: Bureau of Economic Analysis
** Figures correct if current home sells for $ 200,000, and new home cost $ 245,000 at a commission rate of 2.25% (($200,000.00 x 2.25%) + ($245,000.00 x 2.25%))