flooring

Green Your Home, Part 2: Indoor Air Quality

March 7th, 2008  |  Published in air quality, flooring, green, painting, remodeling, renovating

By now, global-warming naysayers are fringe folk who probably also believe the world is flat. We know the benefits of recycling, and energy efficiency has become the buzzword in home building and renovating. Your highly efficient stove and windows may cost more upfront, but the real savings—and your home’s resale value—come through reduced energy bills and increased life spans while also helping make the planet a better place.

But green building isn’t just about the planet—it’s also about the health of the homeowner. Newly renovated homes often have that “new car” smell, which is really a stew of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) often found in oil paint, as well as formaldehyde off-gassing from engineered wood, like the medium-density fibreboard (MDF) used to make kitchen cabinets and furniture.

According to the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation, indoor air quality—especially in tight, new homes—can be three to four times more polluted than outdoor air, which may be the reason 20 per cent of North Americans have some form of lung disorder, likely linked to dust and mold in your home. We spend an average of 90 per cent of our time indoors, either at work or at home, so eliminating VOCs is crucial.

Luckily, homeowners today have options not readily available even five years ago. Most paint, for example, is virtually VOC-free, and engineered wood such as MDF is now available without formaldehyde. For flooring, CMHC recommends hard surfaces, such as prefinished hardwood flooring, or ceramic tiles laid down using a low-toxin grout. The reason: hard surfaces are easier to clean, they don’t collect dust as easily as carpet and they are last longer, which means, beyond better air quality, you’re also reducing repair costs and trips to the dump to plonk worn-out carpet.

The U.S. National Institutes of Health website includes a page dedicated to household products and toxins. Click Products and then choose Inside the Home (for bathroom, kitchen, etc.) or Home Maintenance (for grout, insulation, paint, etc.).

Still unsure how indoor air quality relates to you or how you can easily reduce harmful VOCs? Health Canada has a section containing information, resources, and even a few quizzes to help you get your air quality where you want it to be.

Up next in the Part 3 of the Green Your Home series: the appliances available that keep you feeling good about the earth.

Design trends

February 21st, 2008  |  Published in decor, flooring, green, plumbing

The 10th annual Interior Design Show was held a few weeks ago in Toronto, and although the bitter cold has turned everything snow white, the real colour of choice this year is, you guessed it, green.

IDS 08 featured a seminar on the benefits of sustainable design, from your home’s mechanical systems (heating, cooling, ventilation) to design (passive solar) to furniture and fixtures. Sustainability permeated every corner of interior design, as shown by the new products on display at the show.
Luckily, you didn’t have to come to Toronto to find these goods. Here’s a sampling of the new, the cool, the green.

Rad Rads
Belgian manufacturer Jaga has transformed boring—albeit efficient—radiators into objets d’arte. First there’s Angula Plus, which, unlike a traditional rad, fixes around 90-degree corners with a thin width that makes it perfect for small spaces, such as entranceways and bathrooms. But it’s the Heatwave (pictured below), designed by Joris Laarman, that will cause your head to spin.

Heatwave radiator

Unbeatable Underfoot
Forget hardwood flooring and look to its evolution with Plyboo, a laminated bamboo material that can be used for flooring, paneling and plywood. Plyboo has been recognized by the Leadership in Environmental Design (LEED) certification system for its durability, and its composition from 100 per cent bamboo grass means the resources used can be replenished without needing to replant them.

Let it Flow
American Standard’s new FloWise high-efficiency toilet is the Cadillac—the Michael Caine—of toilets. Not only is it stylish and easy to clean (if there’s anywhere for an anti-microbial surface, it’s definitely the toilet)it also uses 20 per cent less water than standard, 1.6-gallon-per-flush toilets, and comes with a 10-year warranty.

Rock On
South African designer Ronel Jordaan has taken our fixation with fixing the planet and turned it into rock—well, soft—solid comfort. 100 per cent wool rock-shaped cushions and pebble carpets contain fibres that link when rubbed together, bringing nature inside, while keeping things comfy.

Helpful Flooring Information

May 22nd, 2007  |  Published in decor, flooring

seniorcouple-771964 Helpful Flooring Information
Flooring Hints:

* The most important part of a flooring project is its proper installation. A poor installation can reduce the floor’s life span significantly. Choose a reputable local dealer.

* Take samples of fabrics, wallpaper and paint swatches to the flooring showroom. Take a cabinet drawer for kitchen projects.

* Often customers bring the room sizes to the showroom in order to help the salesperson ballpark the total investment based on different selection options. A room’s dimensions are simple: 1 linear foot equals 1 block.

What’s Your Mental Picture?

Ask yourself the questions below before you visit the flooring showroom. It will help the sales consultant understand your mental picture during your showroom visit. Finding you the right product is the priority. Knowing your mental picture helps the dealer.

* What is the room used for? How much traffic? Children or pets?
* Do kids play on the floor? Is comfort important?
* Is the room the center of activity for family OR is it used for entertainment?
* Is there direct access (soiling) from outside?
* Is there anything I liked/disliked about the existing floor that I am replacing
* What is my color scheme?
* How much natural sunlight does the room get?
* How long do I plan on staying in the house? Is resale important to me?
* Have I ever had a negative experience with a flooring project in the past?
* What needs to happen to avoid that problem again?

*Courtesy of Molyneaux - Carpet and Flooring in Pittsburgh, VA.

Stain Removal Tips

May 4th, 2007  |  Published in flooring, maintanence

Rug-754016 Stain Removal Tips

You have probably heard of a thousand different techniques for stain removal - everyone has been taught something different by their mothers, but certain elements will always help when you find yourself with a stain on your rug. The following is a brief and simple tutorial that should cover the majority of common household stains. Using carbonated water in place of normal water in our experience has more beneficial effects and will not harm the material.

1) Act immediately.
2) Scrape off any solids or lumps with a table knife or spoon.
3) Do not rub or scrub the stain - this may permanently distort the carpet fibres.
4) Soak up the stain with clean white towels or paper towels by pressing on stain. Keep repeating with a fresh towel surface until there are no more stain transfers to towel.
5) For all water soluble stains such as coffee, wine, soft drinks and food stuffs, use Turco-Persian’s Carpet Stain Remover, or mix 1 tsp of laundry detergent with 8 oz of warm water. Dab solution onto stain and repeat above absorption with towelling. Repeat procedure as long as stain is coming out. Be careful not to oversoak rug.
6) When no more stain is coming onto the towel, get a fresh bath towel, fold it 3-4 times in half and place on stained area. Place a telephone book on top of towel. Leave for 24-36 hours.
7) If any trace of stain remains, wipe gently with a mild solution of white vinegar. (i.e. 1 oz vinegar to 6 oz cold water).

FOR URINE

1) Soak up immediately.
2) Dab on straight solution of white vinegar if stain is still wet to neutralize fresh urine.
3) Repeat folded towel procedure as above.

FOR GUM, GREASE, SHOE POLISH, OILY TYPE STAINS

1) Spot clean with odourless mineral spirits (readily available at hardware stores).
2) Put on towel & wipe the spot.
3) Do not soak rug.

Courtesy of Turco Persian Rug Company Ltd - Unbeatable for over a 100 years.

Ceramic Floors - General Care

May 1st, 2007  |  Published in flooring, maintanence

Ceramic tile requires minimal floor care compared to most other flooring types, but there are a few things you need to do to maintain the beauty of the ceramic tile floor.

Wash Regularly
Wash the floor regularly to remove any dirt or grit. Use a mild, diluted household detergent solution. Regular cleaning will help in the prevention of stains and abrasions. After washing with a mild detergent you should thoroughly rinse the floor with clean, warm water every time.

Vacuum Regularly
Sweep, or vacuum your glazed tile regularly. This will help remove larger particles of dirt that could scratch and damage your tiles.

Wipe Spills Immediately
Liquids spills may be wiped up with an all-purpose household cleaner. This will also help the grout joints from becoming discolored from possible stains.

Avoid Ammonia-based Cleaners
Ammonia-based cleaners may discolor some types of colored grout.

Never Wax a Tile
The glazed ceramic finish should never be waxed.

Grout Sealers
Grout joints should be treated with a silicone grout sealer twice a year to help preserve the grout color and to prevent discoloration from spills.

Chris Paulsen
cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com

Making Wood Shine

April 27th, 2007  |  Published in DIY, flooring

Wood finishing is fun and easy. We’ll take you through the wood finishing process including preparing the wood, choosing the proper applicator, and applying traditional and one-step finishes. Whether you’re planning to build or refinish furniture or bookshelves for your room, make gift items for your family, friends or a local charity, or take up woodworking as a profession, you’ll find woodworking to be a rewarding experience.

It’s a practical skill that you’ll take with you throughout life. After all, even novice woodworkers can save money by building or refinishing their own furniture, or by doing their own renovations, making woodworking a particularly important skill during challenging economic times. And, whether you’re a novice or a regular in the workshop, you can succeed in creating a professional-looking project, which is both beautiful and functional, by taking a common sense approach to woodworking. An important part of this approach is developing fundamental wood finishing skills.

Today, the secret of a fine wood finish is no secret at all. Beautiful results can be obtained easily if you prepare the wood surface to accept a finish, “troubleshoot” before application to minimize problems during the finishing process, and use high-quality wood finishing products. Always read the label directions and cautions.

Choosing the Right Wood

Look around your home. The floor may be oak or maple; the baseboard and window sills may be clear-finished pine, poplar or cherry. Kitchen cabinets could be solid or laminated, from knotty pine, oak, maple or cherry. With so many types of wood available, it’s important to learn how to recognize and evaluate basic types of woods to recognize their strengths and weaknesses.

How do you know what type of wood to use?

Before making your purchase, think about how you intend to use the wood. When choosing the actual piece of wood, check for any twists or warping. Look for splits at the ends of the board and surface defects like knots. Look for machine marks, insect holes, dents, and shipping scars. Will these defects affect how you intend to use the wood? Compare the different types of grain patterns. Try to match grain patterns in boards that will be used next to one another, since differences will become more pronounced once you brush on a coat of stain. Finally, once you’ve made your decision, be sure to measure the wood before you buy it.

*Article courtesy of Minwax - Makes and Keeps Wood Beautiful

Chris Paulsen
cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com

101: Bamboo Floors From Harvest to Flooring

April 24th, 2007  |  Published in decor, flooring, green

 101: Bamboo Floors From Harvest to Flooring
A common error some people make about bamboo is that it is a type of hardwood. Not to be confused with common associations of many species of grass, bamboo is actually a type of grass which matures into a material that can rival the hardness of maple! Well adapted to their environment, bamboo plants thrive in areas of fair-to-poor soil quality and still remain one of the fastest growing plants in the world. Controlled harvesting has very little impact on each individual stalk, which will continue to grow long after harvesting. This is what makes bamboo such a renewable source of flooring material, and why it is often associated with environmentally minded choices for flooring. The fact that it is so uniquely attractive makes bamboo flooring an extremely beneficial choice for your own interior environment!

How Bamboo Flooring is Made

Once the bamboo has been harvested, the outer layer of green skin is removed and each stalk is cut into lengthwise strips or fillets. These curved fillets of bamboo are milled along their outer edges in order to flatten them. The excess elements of this process will go into another type of bamboo flooring that is called strand-woven bamboo flooring. The flattened strips of bamboo are then kiln dried in order to remove the natural moisture in the bamboo, and are then boiled. The bamboo fillets are now ready to be glued together to make a solid, dependable surface that is more than suitable for flooring. The bamboo undergoes one final compression stage, which makes it that much more durable and ready to ship. Tongue-and-groove elements are added in order to make installation as easy as possible. The outcome of this manufacturing process is dependent on which kind of bamboo flooring is being made. There are several types of bamboo flooring, both in terms of cut and of color, and some differences in how they are processed.

Horizontal or Vertical Bamboo Flooring

During the gluing process, the bamboo can either be bound with the narrow edges facing up, which results in a thin, channel pattern, or so that the broader surface of the bamboo is bound facing upward, making for a surface that is more akin to traditional hardwood patterns. These styles of bamboo flooring are known as vertical and horizontal bamboo flooring, respectively. There are visual benefits to each one, depending on your personal taste, but both remain decorative choices. The horizontal style is striking for its knuckle or node patterns (the pattern naturally occurring in the bamboo that is the equivalent of growth rings in many hardwood species). The vertical style is a unique surface that remains unmatched by any other natural flooring material.

There is very little wasted material during the bamboo flooring manufacturing process, making bamboo a truly renewable and sustainable source of flooring materials.
Link:

This article was provided by BuildDirect. BuildDirect offers durable and attractive bamboo floors at less than retail cost. Order in pallet or container quantities securely online. Or call BuildDirect toll-free at (877) 631-2845.

posted by Nikki Rollins
nrollins@homerenovationguide.com

101: Floor Care and Maintenance

April 19th, 2007  |  Published in air quality, flooring, maintanence

Taking care of your new flooring will keep it looking new for years. It is so important to take proper care of it. Please refer to the below guide which will help you.

Ceramic Tile & Sheet Vinyl
Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove dirt & grit.
Wash floor with suitable mild cleaner.
(Do not use vinegar or bleach).
Wipe up spills promptly with a damp cloth or mop.

Carpet

Regular carpet maintenance can enhance indoor air quality and prevent premature deterioration.

Vacuum and spot clean daily.
Implement a preventative maintenance program.
Steam clean when necessary.

Hardwood & Laminate Flooring

Control and monitor indoor humidity.
Use felt pads on furniture.
Vacuum and sweep regularly.
Only use hardwood and laminate floor cleaners.

Chris Paulsen

Soma’s Restaurant Renovation Goes Right

April 13th, 2007  |  Published in decor, electrical wiring, flooring, kitchen, lighting, plumbing, remodeling, renovating

soma-1-788131 Somas Restaurant Renovation Goes Right

Soma sits in an old Riverside building on one of the east end’s busiest — and formerly one of its seediest — corners, in a neighbourhood with virtually no nightlife (besides the hard-to-miss Jilly’s strip club, of course).

The choice of location may seem like a gamble to some, but a recent boom in activity on the Queen East strip, and a desperate need for an upscale neighbourhood lounge, has enabled Soma to pack the house almost every night since its opening.

In fact, the building had not been upgraded since 1902 and had to be completely gutted to create Soma. Previously a martial arts studio, it had no plumbing and even had an asphalt floor, making it a bit of an indoor driveway. However, despite many people’s disbelief and a year of transformation, the owners of Soma built a restaurant and lounge from scratch and have unveiled one of the Toronto’s most stunning new lounges, designed with the building’s history in mind.

An original secret passageway at the side of the room was restored and is now used for service staff, so you never see a parade of dirty dishes or encounter what would have been congestion by the washrooms and kitchen doors. The exposed brick behind the concrete bar is the building’s original, and any bricks removed during construction were saved to use on the exterior of the building.

But as old as its history may be, the new definitely comes out with the rest of the place. A sleek, modern lounge area sits in the front, with comfy black leather couches and ottomans, and tables line the back for either drinkers or diners. Most of Soma’s decor is black, grey and white except for the occasional screaming yellow wall.

WHERE: 703 Queen St. E. Toronto, ON

WHO YOU WILL MEET: East-enders desperate for an upscale place to go without having to cross that bridge into downtown. A big part of their clientele comes from the film industry from nearby lofts and studios.

TIP: Check out Soma’s stunning light fixtures. They were purchased from Italy and installed by a local Leslieviller, and kind of look like exploding silver flowers. Very cool.

Project: Placing a Sub Floor over Concrete

April 9th, 2007  |  Published in DIY, basement, flooring, plumbing, tools

sub-floor-756111 Project: Placing a Sub Floor over Concrete
Placing a sub floor over a concrete is one way to help you finish off your basement. The sub floor will act as a level base and not be as cold on the feet. When you’re getting ready, prepare the surrounding area properly, ensuring that water will not seep through to the concrete underneath.

Map It Out
Plan your renovation by drawing it out on some graph paper, using each square as per square. Calculate the number and length of 2″ x 3″ strips of wood required for the area of the basement. Then, measure and calculate the length and amount of 2″ x 3″ pieces needed for sleeper, which you will nail on 40 cm (16 inch) centres. Lastly, measure the number of 4′ x 8′ fibre or plywood pieces that you will need to cover the sub floor.

Waterproofing
Place 6mm polyethylene on top of the concrete to act as a barrier and prevent humidity to the ground floor. Be sure to leave about 4 inches of polyethylene along the side of each wall. This will prevent any further humidity damage.

Note: Instead of 6mm polyethylene, you can also use a 15 lb felt paper.

Framing
Build a sub floor frame throughout the basement along the floor. Using 2″ x 3″ strips of wood, place them directly on top of the 6mm polyethylene along each wall of the basement. Now, using a 16-inch centre, place sleepers throughout the frame, making sure that the first sleeper is 16 inches from the wall with the rest being 16 inches apart. Be sure to lay the sleeper in the direction to the smallest area of the room.

Making it Level
Make sure that the sleepers are level. You may have to use shims in order to get the entire floor leveled - this is very important. After they are leveled, anchor them to the concrete floor using a concrete drill or ramset. Allow a distance of 12 inches between each nail. Cut off the excess polyethylene with a utility knife. Using a pencil, mark the placement of each sleeper along the basement walls as a template for when the sheets of plywood.

Laying It All Down
Before laying down the fibre or plywood, ensure that they are 5/8″ thick. Also, apply a strong adhesive to each sleeper throughout the basement prior to laying the sheets down. Make sure that you stagger the plywood sheets from one sheet to the next, creating a stronger floor area. Place the sheets perpendicular to the sleepers, making sure that they are parallel to the shortest wall. Now, using the templated pencil marks, screw in the sheets of plywood to the sleepers and framing. Space out the screws approximately 12 inches while using 1-1/2″ wood screws.

You will be able to find or rent all the tools and materials at your local building supply store.

Chris Paulsen
cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com