Problems always arise with out-of-tune grills, barbecues with hot and cold spots, low heat, flare-ups or just plain dirty grilling surfaces. But during the outdoor season, the barbecue acts as your kitchen, and how long could you put up with an oven that didn’t work? People live with these issues as if there’s nothing that can be done, but barbecues, like all tools, require yearly maintenance to keep working at top form. That said, the fixes, like everything BBQ, are easy.

Before I continue, I should clarify: I am talking about gas-powered barbecues, not the traditional hibachi or other charcoal cookers. If you’re a traditionalist and consider gas a sin, skip this lesson. For the rest of us, read on.

Step 1: The Burner

Hot and cold spots, flare-ups and other griller eccentrics are almost always related to the burner, the griller’s engine. Depending on how often you use your grill (year-round for me, 52% of other Canadians, according to a recent study by the makers of the fine Weber grills), it eventually burn out and need replacing.

Simply lift off the grills, pull aside the coals or “flavour wave” and lift out the burner. Not all burners are the same size or fit, so wrap it inside a small bag (so it doesn’t make everything dirty) and take it into a hardware store, where you can show it to the guy and get a replacement. For about $40 you’ll have, essentially, a new ‘cue.

Step 2: Spiders and Rust

Spiders and rust … sounds like an Iron Maiden album. New barbecues come equipped with “spider guards” that prevent these small critters from entering the venturi tubes (the metal connectors that feed gas to the burner). This tends to happen over the winter, with spiders and their webs, plus other dirt and debris, clogging up the pipes.

While you’re at the hardware store, pick up a $4 venturi brush, which is basically a long, skinny pipe cleaner with a bristled end. Then simply push the brush through the pipes till they’re clean and free.

Still in a cleaning frame of mind? Now’s the time to get rid of any rust buildup around the venturi tubes, burners and grates. Fine steel wool (#000 or #0000) and some light machine oil should get rid of any surface rust; if the decay runs deeper, you might need to replace a part, but here we’re usually talking about the burner, which should be replaced every two to three years anyway. Same goes for the rubber gas hose similar to the hoses under your car hood; if it’s cracked, replace it.

Rusty propane tanks should not be tinkered with. As a general rule, these tanks last about eight to 10 years. (Quick tip: get two tanks so that if one empties while you’re cooking, you can quickly hook up the full tank without ruining the meal.)

Step 3: Add new coals

Most gas barbecues don’t require charcoal coals because they come with what’s often referred to as a “flavour wave,” which reflects and directs flames while creating smoke from dripping juices and oils. However, that said, you can certainly add charcoal coals to your ‘cue, just make sure you replace them every season or so.

Besides coals, you can also play around with pieces of soaked wood (apple wood smoked ribs, anyone?), such as hickory. Use your own, or buy specially soaked shavings from a specialty food store.

Step 4: You’re Done

That’s right, there is no Step 4. See, I told you, barbecuing is easy living done well, or in my case, medium rare.

But the real difference between America and Canada, at least as far as this blog is concerned, concerns the White House and 24 Sussex Drive. Don’t know what “24 Sussex Drive” is? That’s my point.

This past weekend, the Canadian media reported on the decrepit state of Prime Minister Steve Harper’s abode, pointing out that the 34-room house, built in 1866, is in desperate need of a reno—to the tune of $10 million.

At stake: who will pay for the renos and where will Steve and his family live during the repairs, which include replacing old windows, removing asbestos and installing a sprinkler system. They’re looking at a 12- to 15-month project, and that’s assuming that the subcontractors show up on time.

I simply cannot imagine the White House undergoing such prolonged and publicly debated scrutiny over when and how the “official residence” will be brought up to date; it’s not that the White House has never been renovated—it has, many times—but that Canadian leaders have historically lacked the political will and wallets to authorize big-budget renovations, let alone the cosmetic changes brought in by U.S. presidents and (likely) future leaders.

Of course, all this pales in comparison to the reno headaches suffered by other world leaders. Former Czech president Václav Havel writes in his memoir, To the Castle and Back, about concerns with the Castle’s garden hose, which needs to be lengthened, and the bat inhabiting the vacuum-cleaner closet, all while trying to run a newly democratic country. Talk about gaining perspective.

Sometimes I think Canada suffers from too much democracy; as in, too much debate over how and when things need to get fixed. It’s why there is an excessive number of elections, and a state house in need of the Holmes treatment. In the States, on the other hand, the chain of command means things get done ASAP, which is good when it comes to renos, but not as good when it comes to foreign policy.

No, we’re not the same. But that’s what makes us friends.

I mention the Diva because she’s the one who turned me on to Handyguys Podcast. If you’re not familiar with podcasting, basically it’s a downloadable audio or video program, like a TV or radio show, that you can watch or listen to on your computer. Handyman’s Podcast is a weekly advice show (posted every Thursday) put together by two guys with ample reno experience.

The show covers questions sent in by listeners, as well as general how-to advice on everything from deck refinishing to spring cleaning your lawnmower to head-to-head tool tests. It’s a great show led by two entertaining and informed DIYers.

Handyman’s Podcast isn’t the only home-reno show in the blogosphere. Podcasting works well with renos because you get to hear from real people about what they went through and how to solve problems in a way that doesn’t always work in books or magazines. Here are some other remodelling podcasts:

Podcast Directory lists several building-related podcasts, including shows on tiling and insulation.

HGTV (Home and Garden Television) offers tons of podcasts covering everything from basement makeovers to home wine storage.

If you read Popular Science magazine, you’re already familiar with The Toolmonger, a guy who tests and reviews tools like a one-man Consumer Reports. The podcasts feature The Toolmonger offering his opinions and advice on buying and comparing tools.

Of course, with all online content, please use caution when deciding who’s an expert and who’s blowing hot air; not everyone’s the expert they claim to be.

Yes, some nostalgia is fine, but when your whole house starts reeking of a bygone era, it might be time for an overhaul into the new century.

The fine folks over at One Project Closer, a blog co-written by two married couples from Baltimore County, Maryland, tackled this very subject in a post about sanding away stipple ceilings.

Stipple ceilings were very popular in the late 1970s and 1980s as a simple, cheap way for homebuilders and cutoff jeans–wearing DIYers to finish a drywall or sheetrock ceiling without having to mud or sand the drywall joints. Often confused with popcorn or spray-on ceilings, stipple ceilings are renowned for great acoustic properties (they reduce room echo) but the porous, crater-like texture looks dated, too space-like, too 1970s, too, well, I hate to use this word, groovy.

If your home was built before 1990, chances are it’s still got some outdated designs. While my heart belongs to wood paneling, some people—most people—aren’t keen on the dark, dingy look, so the panels are the first to go, replaced by drywall or painted over.

Next stop, bathrooms with outdated bulky cabinets and enough sinks to please the Solid Gold Dancers. As a general rule, getting rid of a cluttered look with big drawers is Step 1 in any bathroom update.

Of course, ceilings and counters aren’t the only parts of your home that can quickly look dated. Walls, especially wallpaper-covered ones, can look out of style before the glue dries. But then again, recovering walls with paint or paper is also the quickest way to bring something from 1978 to 2008 in a weekend.

So now that your home is completely up-to-date, ever wonder which of its features will look dated in 10 years?

Most of us have no idea what’s underneath our lawns and gardens, and unless you’ve dug up a pool or set deep deck posts, why would you? When we need to dig, we dig. Unfortunately, freewheeling digging can leave DIYers knee-deep in more than soil when their shovel accidentally jabs an underground utility line.

Luckily, someone has set up a program to help inform people how to create holes in the ground safely. The Safe Digging Month program, which begins this May, provides a website and U.S.-based national phone number to help homeowners get their utility lines marked before breaking ground. To learn more about the program, click here.

Canadian readers, there’s help for you, too. While there’s no national organization or one-stop website, utility line digging resources abound, so simply type “utility line digging” into Google, along with your location (Moosejaw, Halifax, and so on) and you’re good to go.

Alternatively, of course, there’s a tool that will do the work for you. And with that kind of investment, you may just get inspired to go in search of buried treasure.

Mixed in with the usual contenders—chemical-free cleaning supplies, organic sauces served up with pretzels (what show would be complete without these freebie stalls?), the seemingly un-ironic car companies touting their hybrid vehicles—was a single vendor selling a basic, low-tech idea: The Living Wall.

Like any wall system, The Living Wall acts as both a privacy screen and a noise dampener, except instead of being built out of synthetic materials (brick, steel, iron) this wall is made from willow shrubs that grow quickly, is easy to maintain (the stalks keep their shape and don’t require special watering) and are hardy enough to survive the both the heat of Houston and the frigid wrath of Winnipeg.

The concept behind The Living Wall is quite old, derived from the basic recipe of combining two-year-old willows with wooden posts, which provide stability and force the shoots to project upward and straight. The Wall can be as long as you want, planted as a single line or in rows for added privacy, or in combination with other organic wall systems (see more pictures here). Willows have a lifespan of about 30 to 40 years, so replanting is necessary; other than that, the only maintenance required is gentle trimming.

Completely organic and graffiti-proof, this carbon-dioxide absorber establishes itself quickly, blends in with nature and is cheap to build and maintain—clearly a winning combination when it comes to landscaping.

I thought of him while reading a recent press release sent out by publisher John Wiley & Sons, creator of the iconic black-and-yellow For Dummies series of reference books. Pitched to “those frustrated and hardworking souls who know they’re not dumb” but lack technical knowledge, this hugely successful series of books—150 million in print; more than 1,000 topics—has ventured deeper into the realm of eco-building with Green Building and Remodelling for Dummies, written by Eric Corey Freed, a LEED-accredited architect.

This useful book helps navigate the reader through the onslaught of “green” building materials and systems, covering everything from water and heating to energy conservation to selecting “green financing experts.”

The timing couldn’t be better. Green building has gained a steady foothold among regular homeowners who see the value in energy and water efficiency. What’s more: not only are we renovating from a green perspective, we’re simply renovating more, period. According to statistics from the U.S. Census Bureau, Americans spent approximately $230 billion on remodelling in 2007; up in Canada, more than $17.3 billion was spent in 2007, with 39 per cent of all homeowners taking on a renovation project in 2007, according to Statistics Canada. Across North America, homeowners are staying put and fixing up, not moving on.

With all the greenwash out there, having a calm, even-toned tome written for the everyman is certainly appreciated. Add to this Wiley’s other eco-themed books—Solar Power Your Home For Dummies—and other home-reno titles such as Building Your Own Home For Dummies, Home Improvement All-in-One For Dummies, plus books on bathroom and painting—and you’ve got a well-rounded foundation for environmental building.

I say “foundation” because, really, would anybody be comfortable beginning such a huge project with only a few Dummies books as technical guides? Imagine your contractor showing up with one of these books. Staying put is one thing; deciding to build your own house after watching a few episodes of Flip This House and reading the For Dummies book … well, is this really a smart idea?

That said, homeowners do take kitchen renos very seriously, and for good reason; not only do we spend large chunks of time in them while cooking and eating, but kitchens—specifically counters and cabinets—are the first place realtors look to when it comes to resale value.

Unlike other remodelling choices, countertops present myriad choices, from classic hardwood to engineered and natural stone, tile, stainless steel and concrete. Each one comes with its own pros and cons, so here’s an across-the-board lowdown:

Engineered stone: made from granite, quartz or marble mixed with resin and pigments, this type of counter looks natural, comes in many colours and resists dents and scratches. However, unlike natural stone, engineered stone isn’t porous and doesn’t require a sealer, so once it’s installed, you’re ready to go. Cost: $40 to $125 per square foot.

Natural stone: perhaps the most popular “upgrade” these days, granite, marble and slate counters bring nature inside, at a cost. These counters stand up well to heat and daily abuse but unlike engineered stone, they require twice-yearly sealing (in the case of granite) to protect against stains. Because these counters come direct from nature, the surface can appear slightly jagged and varied, which fits in perfectly with the organic, enviro-minded homeowner. Cost: $50 to $200 per square foot.

Tile: nothing says “olde tyme” quite like tiled countertops, perhaps because tiles (ceramic, porcelain, natural stone or mosaic) add a feeling of warmth and antiquity. Because tiles are often painted, colour choice is unlimited, as is texture and pattern. The downside: these puppies chip and break easily and grout requires yearly resealing to protect against mould and remove stains. Cost: $20 to $100 per square foot.

Stainless steel: stainless steel counters exude a professional, don’t mess with me, Gordon Ramsay is a personal friend attitude. The industrial-looking surface stands up well to heat, is easy to clean and requires virtually no maintenance; the fact that it easily scratches is the point here—sort of like “never trust a skinny chef.” Cost: $75 to $150 per square foot.

Hardwood: similar to tiles, hardwood gives off a rustic, Kim Robinson-esque look that harkens back to rustic living. Depending on where you live, hardwood countertops are often made from pieces of maple, yellow birch or white oak. While they stain easily, the surface is easy to repair (a light sanding and regular oiling are all that’s required). Look for products made from certified lumber. Cost: $50 to $200 per square foot.

Plastic laminate: here’s the basic, everyday material most cookie-cutter kitchens come equipped with. Easily damaged, this surface isn’t exactly durable compared with other choices. But wait, it’s not all bad; plastic laminate comes in a bevy of colours, is inexpensive and can be installed very quickly, which is key if you’re looking to sell and want a fast fix-up that still looks good. Cost: $10 to $10 per square foot.

For more about kitchen countertop choices, click here.

Compact fluorescents work by passing a current through a tube filled with a trace amount of mercury and argon gas, an inert, colourless, odourless and nontoxic gas. If you’ve ever purchased windows, you know the benefits of argon gas: reduced heat loss in winter and decreased heat gain in summer.

When I was a kid I thought argon gas was some sort of Superman-strength fume that protected against, I don’t even know, aliens? Turns out I was partly right; the gas does have superhero strength, as in light force.

Luxim, a company that specializes in developing high-efficiency lighting, recently revealed its newest project: a Tic-Tac-sized bulb that gives off as much light as a streetlamp but is ultra-efficient thanks to, you guessed it, argon gas, as well as a component called a “puck.” When electrical energy is delivered to the puck, the puck acts like an electrical lens, heating up the argon to a temperature of 6000 degrees Kelvin, and turning the gas into a plasma that gives off light.

Conventional light bulbs and high-end LEDs get around 15 and 70 lumens per watt, respectively. By comparison, the plasma bulb uses 250 watts, and achieves around 140 lumens per watt, making it incredibly bright and highly efficient in its light distribution.

So while you might not need such bright lighting in your home, this tiny bulb offers a brilliant glimpse into the future.

He pulls into your driveway in his Sprinter van bearing his company logo. Wearing Carhartt overalls and sporting a pencil behind his ear, he’s all class, baby. And then something happens that you weren’t expecting. While pulling out his tools—the usual heavy-duty suspects—out springs a Hello Kitty Power Sander.

If you’ve somehow managed to avoid Hello Kitty thus far, she’s that iconic Japanese character you see fixed onto everything from clothing to backpacks to jewelry, electronics …

Yes, literally everything. So why not construction equipment? Well, the obvious question is, how safe could a pink-hued, animated character-enhanced sander be? Unfortunately, exhaustive Internet searches led to zero product reviews, neither from amateurs nor professional builders. While we can’t provide a review, we can give these words of advice: if your contractor pulls out this device, kindly ask him to put it back into his Hello Kitty tool box; playtime is over.

Has anyone used this sander? Or can possibly suggest a reason for its existence?