by Robert Wright

There are many, many products, services and gadgets that can make the running and maintaining of your home easier. However, many of these are expensive, complicated, and may not live up to the billing.

The best “stuff” is usually comparatively inexpensive and easy to install when your home is being built or renovated.

Some of this stuff could also be the thought process that goes into your home’s design and/or selection of materials. It can also be the care taken during the installation.

If you install wood exterior trim, it is inexpensive to install and paint, but it can become an annual painting chore.  When this maintenance is neglected, then you have to replace it at a cost.

If a pre-painted metal and/or a “plastic” material is selected, it may be more expensive to supply and install, but you no longer have to paint it on a regular basis.  In addition, it will outlast the wood. This is why most homes today have metal soffits and fascia, PVC windows and door brick moulds.

Another example is your roof.  If you select a basic 25yr 3 tab asphalt shingle for your home it will work. However metal, stone, or composite roofing will last 2, 3 or more times longer than the asphalt roofing. In addition, these types will resist weather, vegetation, and wildlife damage to a greater degree. The metal and composite roofing will also be recyclable when replaced instead of being buried in a landfill site.

The heating and air conditioning equipment installed in your home can also make your life easier and less expensive. Many of the HVAC and HRV installations today are of the least expensive products and materials, and use the easiest installation method or route for the installer. This results in a home that has heat and a/c but is still uncomfortable due to drafts, cold and hot spots, and inaccessible maintenance points. With a little more thought, you can have equipment and an installation that will last longer, run cheaper, and make you more comfortable.

Today, many trades rely on caulking to keep your home warm and dry. The problem with caulking is that it will fail — there’s no if. The vast majority of leaks and drafts are a result of failed caulking. These failures are usually the result of an incorrect installation method or the incorrect caulking was used in the location. If the various parts of your home are assembled correctly, caulking isn’t actually necessary in most places that it is still being used in today. Besides, who wants to climb a ladder to caulk a gap at the window and brick joint on the second floor?

So where do these problems come from? Some of them come from the desire to keep the construction budget low when building. There are smarter places to save money than others; this should be discussed fully with your contractor.  Another one is the designer of the building.  Many, but not all designers are more concerned with the “look” of the project instead of what would perform better and suit the owner. The designer may also be unaware of some of the potential maintenance problems some selections can create. The contractor would know these issues, as he has had to deal with the warranty or repair issue in the past.

Only a couple of examples are discussed here, but most parts of your home will have similar trade offs and choices. You should understand the cause and affects of any decisions you make when building, renovating, or repairing your home. An added benefit of this process is that you are contributing to a greener environment, a greener wallet, and a smaller carbon footprint.

About the Author

Rob Wright has grown up around construction and in the mid 1990’s, Rob joined and took over Citadel Renovations in Ottawa. Rob has presented seminars at the local home shows on various renovations subjects and is a contributor to the Home Renovation Guide. Rob has been active in the Greater Ottawa Home Builders Association for many years and previously served as the Renovation Council Chair. For more information, visit CitadelRenovations.com.

Looking for a local contractor? Visit the Home Renovation Guide’s Complete Directory or Get a Free Quote.

by Guest

Lennox Industries, a leading provider of customized home heating, cooling and indoor air quality products,  introduced the patent pending SunSource™ Home Energy System – a new solar-powered central heating and cooling system that reduces overall household electricity consumption without the costs associated with traditional solar installations – at the International Builder’s Show in Las Vegas this week.

The new SunSource Home Energy System not only harnesses solar energy from the sun to reduce the electricity consumed by a residential heat pump or air conditioner, but also is able to use that solar power to operate other devices in the home that consume electricity, such as lighting and appliances, when the heating and cooling system is not running. In addition, if the SunSource system generates more power than is used by the home, that power will be sent back to the utility company, which may entitle the homeowner to a credit on their utility bill.

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, the typical U.S. household pays $2,200 a year on utility bills, and the bulk of those energy costs – between 50 and 60 percent – comes from heating and cooling the home.

The SunSource Home Energy System is composed of:

• A solar-ready, high efficiency Lennox air conditioner or heat pump that has been specially enhanced to serve as the platform for this new home energy system.

• A Lennox solar subpanel that provides the connection between utility- interactive solar power system and the HVAC unit.

• One to 15 roof-mounted solar modules that harness clean, sustainable energy from the sun and use it to run the home’s central heating and cooling system as well as other appliances – the more modules, the more homeowners can reduce their utility costs.

• A communications system that allows homeowners to monitor each solar module’s operation and energy production online, as well as other environmental benefits such as the amount of carbon offset.

Energy Savings and Tax Credits Equal Real Cost Savings for Homeowners

As an example, a consumer who lives in a typical 2,000-square-foot home in Corpus Christi, Texas, can reduce the electricity usage associated with heating and cooling his or her home by approximately 12 percent annually by installing a Lennox high-efficiency air conditioner(1) with two solar modules and by 86 percent by installing the air conditioner with 15 modules. In Tulsa, Okla., the homeowner would see around a 25 percent reduction in air conditioner electricity usage with two solar modules, and about a 180 percent reduction (meaning more energy production than air conditioner consumption) with 15 modules. The savings increase even more in sunnier areas of the country.

In addition to the costs savings and incentives offered by many local utility companies for using high-efficiency heating and cooling equipment and/or renewable energy sources, the new SunSource system makes homeowners eligible for federal and some state solar tax credits. In fact, these benefits, when combined, can cover up to 94 percent of the cost of the solar modules, including installation(2).

The new Lennox SunSource Home Energy System will be available with several products from the Dave Lennox Signature® Collection, which is the company’s line of premium heating and cooling products, offering the quietest, most efficient operation and a premier level of performance. The Lennox SunSource Home Energy System may be paired with Dave Lennox Signature Collection air conditioners and heat pumps beginning in May 2010.

About Lennox Industries

Lennox Industries is a leading provider of customized home heating, cooling and indoor air quality products that are designed to deliver customized comfort, efficiency and functionality, with the most innovative and reliable features available. Lennox is also the first heating and air conditioning manufacturer to harness solar energy for central heating and cooling – and beyond. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the Department of Energy have selected Lennox as an ENERGY STAR Manufacturer of the Year four out of six years for its outstanding contribution to developing and promoting energy-efficient products. For more information about Lennox home comfort products, visit www.Lennox.com or call 1-800-9-LENNOX.

# # #

(1) Energy savings calculations are based on a Lennox XC21-036 air conditioner, which has a 20 SEER (seasonal energy efficiency rating).

(2) Depends on local and state incentives in homeowner’s area. Typical incentives range between 30 percent and 94 percent of the cost of the solar modules, including installation.

By Guest

Up to 100% Off a New High-Efficiency, EnergyStar®- Rated Furnace

You read right. It is now possible to get a brand new energy saving furnace for 50%, 60%, 70% off… even 100% free depending on the location of your home. How?

By combining a series of concurrently available and very lucrative national and local rebates, credits and discounts, certain national heating companies are able to provide new EnergyStar rated furnaces at steep discounts until March 31st, at which time some of the discounts will promptly end.

Why? Governments, utilities and furnace manufacturers are all offering credits and rebates because of the lagging world economy (not to mention the local economy). Their main objective is to improve energy efficiency and help save consumers money. Ultimately, new product purchases also help to stimulate the overall economy.

Smaller or locally-owned heating contractors are less likely to have the ability to offer the various types of discounts due to their size or manufacturer leverage.

The caveat? With virtually free furnaces available that can also greatly decrease monthly energy costs; the savings from this winter’s energy bills alone might offset the new furnace cost. But depending on your area, you may need to purchase an air conditioner at the same time in order to ensure the correct sizing, air flow and proper operation of the entire HVAC system.

So, now the only question left to ask is, “Why not?”

Guest blog post

by Sam, The Service Experts.  For more info on how Service Experts, the largest national heating and air conditioning service company can now provide furnaces at a near net zero cost to some consumers, depending on the location of the home, visit ServiceExperts.ca.

Time to Put Your Home on an Energy Diet: Eight New Year’s Resolutions for Your Home

According to U.S. Department of Energy, the typical U.S. family spends about $1,900 a year on home utility bills. But Bill Cunningham, an energy efficiency expert with Lennox – a leading provider of customized home heating and cooling systems – says homeowners can significantly curb their energy usage and reduce their energy bills in the coming year by making the following quick and easy home-related New Year’s resolutions:

1. Make a Light Switch. Replace your five most frequently used incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs, and save $65 each year. These bulbs use less energy and can last up to 10 times longer.

2. Get With the Program. Install an ENERGY STAR qualified programmable thermostat, and take the time to program it (the majority of consumers don’t). When used properly, these thermostats can save as much as $150 per year in energy costs.

3. Go with the (Low) Flow. Replace your existing shower head with a new 2.5-gallon-per-minute (low-flow) shower head. The new water efficient shower head coupled with a 10-minute shower will save five gallons of water over a typical bath and up to $145 each year on electricity used to heat the water.

4. Let the Laundry Chill. To save hot water – and the $24 to $40 in fuel that it takes to heat that water each year – wash your clothes in cold water. Be sure to choose a laundry detergent that is formulated for use in cold temperatures.

5. Make a Dent in the Lint. Clean the lint trap in your clothes dryer before every load of laundry, which will help increase the drying efficiency of the machine and save another $34 each year.

6. Dial it Back. Lower the temperature on your hot water heater from 145 degrees to 120 degrees – the only place you’ll notice the difference is on your utility bill. In fact, this slight reduction in temperature can save the average homeowner between $36 and $61 each year.

7. To Repair or Replace: That is the Question. Consider replacing an older furnace that is 60 percent efficient with one that is 95 percent efficient, and save approximately 57 percent on energy bills and up to a whopping $5,513 over a five-year period.

8. Stop the Standby Energy Use. Unplug digital devices when not in use, as “standby” energy consumption can add up. In fact, you can save about $165 per year just by unplugging a plasma TV.

This article is provided by Lennox. For more tips and advice on maintaining or purchasing a home comfort system, visit Lennox.com or ItPaysToLiveSmart.com. Image from www.lennoxhearthproducts.com

Winterizing your home should start with thinking about Safety First, and the best way to ensure the safety of your HVAC system is to get a heating tune-up to be sure its efficient operation throughout the cold season.

After that’s accomplished, all you have to do is be sure you’re not wasting additional energy. You can reduce your heating costs further by doing a few simple things yourself that won’t cost a ton. One way to find out if you’re wasting energy is to do your own 5-step Energy Audit:

1.    Take a walk around the exterior of your house and check for cracks around windows and doors where cold air can come in. Also examine brick work, stucco, siding and the foundation for any gaps. And be sure to check around gas and electric lines and plumbing, too.

2.    Your next step is to get to the hardware store to purchase weather stripping, caulk and foam. The money you save on energy will be well worth the small price you pay for these materials. Then take your check list and plug those cracks and install the weather stripping. It shouldn’t take more than a couple hours depending on the amount of cracks and the size of your home.

3.    Do a similar inside audit, check for air infiltration around windows, doors and switch plates on outside walls. To find air leaks use a piece of tissue on a tooth pick or an incense stick. Air coming in will make the tissue flag wave or disperse the incense smoke. Temporary caulking can be used around windows and then removed in the spring. Foam inserts behind switch plates will eliminate that infiltration problem (be sure power to switch plates is turned off when adding insulation).

4.    Take your Energy Audit into the basement, attic or crawl space. Since insulation gets compacted over the years, add insulation to keep the heat from escaping. Check vents and duct work for leaks or separation.

5.    Turn off the water supply to outside faucets, and even cover them with insulating material. Water damage caused by broken pipes can result in untimely, expensive repairs.

FIVE WARM TIPS THAT WON’T COST YOU A PENNY

With just a few free tricks, you can quickly trim down your bloated heating bill into something a little more appetizing. Did we mention these tricks are free?

USE YOUR BLINDS
Use the sun to your advantage. After all, it’s the best source of energy we have. To maximize the sun’s heat, keep your blinds open during the day. This will allow the natural sunlight to heat the air inside your house. But once night rolls around, be sure to close those blinds, otherwise warm air will escape back through your windows, leaving you to shiver under the cold winter’s moon.

SPARE THE SPARE
Don’t pump costly warm air into your spare and vacant rooms. Simply close off any ducts in unused rooms to ensure you won’t blow a gasket when you open your heating bill.

KEEP AIR MOVING
Hot air rises. But that doesn’t exactly keep your toes warm, or any part of you for that matter. To redistribute the warmth in your house, just turn your ceiling fans on low. The ceiling fans will ensure that the hard-to-find warm air moves to heights a little closer to your heart.

DROP IT LOW
Sometimes we can surprise even ourselves. Test out your temperature tolerance by dropping your thermostat one degree each day. Keep going until the temperature in the house is just too chilly for you. Once the house gets too cold, turn it back up a degree. You can easily save some cash just by testing out your comfort zone.

BUNDLE UP
Wooly socks. A tuque. That old sweater grandma knitted for you. It doesn’t matter what your clothing of choice is, just be sure to bundle up with your preferred warm and fuzzy favorites. Because there is no reason to heat the whole house when you are the one who really needs to stay warm.

This article was provided by Service Experts. Service Experts is a professional, quality-driven company providing sales, installation, maintenance, and repair for all brands of heating, cooling, ventilation and indoor air quality (IAQ) systems. We provide Quality Service Every Visit, and we’re available to meet your needs 24/7, Daytime, Nighttime, On-Time. Our NATE-Certified Professional Technicians are qualified to work on all brands of comfort equipment. For more tips to energy-and-cost-saving ideas, visit www.ServiceExperts.ca and click on Sam’s Blog.

by Kert Heinecke

Green building in its current manifestation is primarily hype. The market, quick to jump on the bandwagon, has focused primarily on tangible products that may draw envy from neighbors, but do little to actually preserve precious resources and reduce your energy bills. The real decision to go ‘green’ should start with the decision to minimize the home energy footprint. Growing consensus among building scientists suggest that the first major step to improving a homes energy efficiency is home air sealing, and it is feasible for all existing homes. When you add the current tax credits and utility company rebates to the equation, the opportunity to take this first step towards the energy smart home is nearly impossible to ignore.

So why Air Seal?

Starting back with the energy crisis of the 1970’s and continuing into the 80’s, there was a push in the building industry to make homes more energy efficient by increasing the R-value of the building envelope. The thinking at the time was that if we add more insulation, and thereby increase its R-value (a measure of a materials resistance to heat flow) we could slow down the heat loss that is conducted through the building envelope. While this thinking was right on and took us a step in the right direction, it failed to consider the complete heat transfer picture. More recent studies have now concluded that houses will continue to under perform thermally unless air leakage has been addressed.

A tight building envelope, one that has been properly air sealed, can provide numerous benefits to its owners and the environment. Energy conservation quickly rushed onto everyone’s radar last year as the cost of fuel skyrocketed.

As we see the cost of energy continue to rise, conserving energy and reducing our energy bills will continue to be at the forefront of the public consciousness. In several recent projects, we have seen energy bills reduced by as much as 30% through the implementation of strategic air sealing.

In New England, where cold winters and chilly evenings are a given, we can all appreciate the value of occupant comfort as we are forced to put on sweaters or sit under blankets to combat a winter chill. Leaky window sashes and doors that lack weather stripping are obvious sources of drafts. On the other hand, the less apparent sources, the smaller gaps and cracks that exist in all structures seem to small to be concerned with. When added together, all of these smaller gaps can equal the size of a typical window sash or larger being left wide open in the middle of winter. While sweaters and blankets have become iconic symbols of winter coziness, no one would choose to wear a sweater instead of closing the window.

Perhaps one of the strongest arguments for air sealing is building durability. The greatest contribution we can make towards green building and resource conservation is to construct buildings to last for generations. When it comes to building durability in cold climates like ours, Air sealing is used not to stop infiltration, but ex-filtration of air. In the winter, warm interior air is laden with moisture from occupant respiration, cooking, and bathing. When this moisture filled air moves through the building envelope, it eventually comes into contact with a cold surface that is below the dew point temperature. When this occurs, the moisture condenses and builds up leaving large quantities of water in the building structure. This water can lead to rot, decay, and mold growth that undermine the buildings integrity.

The other impact on building durability from air leakage is ice damming. Icicles are a standard prop in the stage set of New England winter, but they are also evidence of a problem that can lead to numerous areas of damage including plaster and structural damage from leaks inside the house as well as damage to siding, gutters, and shingles outside the house. Ice damming is typically caused by the stack effect. As warm air rises within the conditioned interior, it escapes through the numerous small leaks in the ceiling. Over time, this escaping heat can greatly increase the temperature of the roof surface melting the snow which then refreezes as it reaches the cold eaves line forming the ice dam. The only way to effective way to battle all of these issues is through strategic air sealing.

Air Sealing Basics

The premise of air sealing is really quite simple, but execution is the key. Air sealing is the systematic location and sealing, or stopping, of the major leaks in a homes building envelope.

The process typically starts with a thermal envelope performance audit consisting of blower door testing, and a visual inspection of the building envelope using an infrared camera. The blower door is an indispensable tool. The blower door is a large fan that is installed in the main entry door and depressurizes the house. It is used to run a series of tests that result in a calculated volume of air leakage under normal conditions. With this data, it is possible to determine how much money and energy is being lost to air leakage. Conversely, it makes predicting savings from air sealing a snap and provides an important piece of data necessary for cost benefit analysis of the actual work ahead.

The blower door is also used during the visual inspection. Again, by depressurizing the building, it is possible to exaggerate the effects of air leakage. With even a modest temperature difference between indoors and outdoors, the leaks become immediately apparent when viewed with an infrared camera. The camera uses infrared technology to read the surface temperatures of the building envelope from the interior, and represents them graphically with an operator determined color coding scheme (e.g. Blue is cold, red is hot). With these two tools, an inventory of problem areas can be developed in about 1-2 hours time, and the remediation plan can be targeted to realize the greatest reduction in energy consumption and the largest improvement in building performance and durability.

This article has been provided by, Feinmann Inc., a Boston company known for its thoughtful and beautiful design, a well-articulated process, superb craftsmanship, responsive service, and the best value for the cost. With a little inspiration and a lot of follow-through, the Feinmann team has transformed hundreds of homes in the Boston area from good to great. Photographs courtesy of Feinmann Inc. For more information visit www.Feinmann.com.

Looking for a local contractor? Get a free quote.

by Tina Gleisner

Keep the Water Out

Today’s houses are built with a variety of materials. Vinyl siding won’t rot when exposed to water but many parts of a house are made from natural materials like wood. Wood becomes a food source for mold growth when the moisture level gets too high.

Our homes are designed to direct water down and away from your home. Roof shingles overlap to keep water flowing down but when they age (crack, curl, etc) water can get under the shingles and the plywood sheathing can rot.

Inspect and Repair Potential Water Leaks

You will save time and money if you periodically inspect your home for potential water damage. Of course you also need to make needed repairs quickly. Here are several different approaches to monitoring the water tightness of your home:

• Use a pair of binoculars to visually inspect your home every year – fall, spring or both. More frequent reviews will help you recognize changes that indicate potential problems. You’re looking for missing/deteriorating roof shingles and gaps/cracks around the chimney or roof vents. On each side of your home, check wood trim right below the roof line for discoloration (water stains or mold), wood siding and trim (windows, corner boards, etc) for cracked/peeling paint or gaps form aging caulk, and focus on window sills which are a common problem.

• Pick one aspect of your home to inspect more thoroughly. Learn which side of your house gets more exposure to the elements (sun, wind, rain and moisture) and has more repair needs, and check this side twice as often as the other 3 sides. If you’re on a 6 year paint schedule, consider painting this one side every 3 years.

• Check your roof – shingles, chimney and vent pipes, ventilation (inflow & outflow) plus gutters and wood trim immediately below the roof on all sides.

• Check windows and doors focusing on the bottom where water tends to collect, i.e., window sills and door thresholds and gaps/cracks in caulk used to seal seams around the windows.

• Check siding and associated trim like corner boards.

• Check foundation to make sure water is directed away from your home’s foundation. This is critical with new homes (or remodeling) where dirt is filled back after excavation, and settles over a few years. Shrubs should also be trimmed.

Learn to test for squishy or punky wood. Press gently with your finger and you’ll quickly learn to recognize the difference between solid wood and wood that is soft with hidden damage. You can then use a thin, pointed object (needle, paper clip, etc) to see how deep the damage goes but do it carefully to prevent the wood from disintegrating in front of your eyes!

Hopefully this list has given you ideas for how to break down the work into bite size chunks you can complete every 3 to 4 years.Your goal should be to find and correct problems quickly, which will save you money!

Keep Warm (or Cool) Air Inside

People are more aware of energy costs since gas prices rose above $4.00/gallon in 2007. Europeans have paid higher fuel costs for years, so the US government looked there when setting new energy standards. US manufacturers had to retool to meet the standards by June 1, 2009. Home owners have to the end of 2010, to use the $1,500 residential home energy tax credit (new construction different).

• Window Tax Credit Standards*

Most of the energy improvements in cars, appliances and building codes are driven by government regulations. We’ll try to update you frequently and you’ll want to research future purchases to benefit in new exterior products like siding, windows and doors to internal systems including heating, electrical/lighting and plumbing, i.e. there are new hot water heaters coming.

Inspect and Seal or Insulate: Don’t Lose heat out Your Window

Now lets break down home maintenance “energy saving” projects into bite size chunks, ones that won’t overwhelm you. Our goal is to help every home owner reduce their energy consumption … to save money, to improve the value of their home and to help the environment.

First you want to seal air leaks that allow cold (or warm) air to get into your home. Here are the most common areas for savings, and it’s okay to do one each year:

• Windows and doors should be caulked outside,and insulated between the window and the rough framing, to reduce unwanted air flow. Caulk can deteriorate over time and often, little or no insulation surrounds windows and doors.

• Single pane windows should be replaced with energy efficient, double pane windows. If you can’t afford to do the entire house, pick 2 or 3 rooms where you spend the most time.

• Weatherstripping around doors, typically rubber, will become less effective over time and should be replaced to block small cracks.

• Where the wood framing of the house meets the foundation is prone to air leaks. Ideally you can insulate and seal these areas from the basement.

• Next you want to insulate to reduce warn air from escaping, i.e. you’ve paid to heat the air and want to gain as much benefit as you can.

• With warm air rising, the first place to improve insulation is the floor of your attic, to keep warm air in your living spaces.

• Outside walls are more challenging. The most practical time to add insulation is when you’re replacing the siding. We’ve helped customers with creative solutions like a second wall in upstairs bedrooms as opening up and insulating 2×4 walls won’t achieve today’s standards which assume 2×6 framing.

• Insulate (and seal) systems that carry warm air (ductwork) or water (exposed heating and hot water pipes) and put an insulating blanket on your hot water heater.

About the Author

Tina Gleisner is the founder of the Association of Home Professionals, which helps home owners find the information and resources they need to manage their homes with confidence (www.hometipsandtools.com). She has written hundreds of articles about home maintenance, repairs and remodeling to help customers find the best solutions for their home, lifestyle and budget. Through My Handyman of Southern NH, Tina offers services in home maintenance including wood rot and water damage, energy saving improvements and updates such as trim, tile, painting and creative storage solutions.

We were recently contacted with further information to provide homeowners with facts about the 2009 Home Renovation Tax Credit. Great timing since there have been many interesting questions about what projects, materials, or labour are applicable for this credit.

Image provided by Sico Paints

To view the webpages, visit:   http://www.cra-arc.gc.ca/hrtc/

Below, is the FAQ page content, which hopefully will answer some of your questions about how you can benefit from this tax credit.

Here is the link of the page: http://www.cra-arc.gc.ca/gncy/bdgt/2009/fqhmrnvtn-eng.html

FAQS

1. What is the Home Renovation Tax Credit (HRTC)?

The proposed HRTC is a non-refundable tax credit for work performed or goods acquired in respect of an eligible dwelling.

2. What is meant by eligible dwelling?

An eligible dwelling is a housing unit that is eligible to be an individual’s principal residence or that of one or more of their family members, at any time between January 27, 2009 and February 1, 2010. In general, a housing unit is considered eligible to be an individual’s principal residence where it is owned by the individual and ordinarily inhabited by the individual, the individual’s spouse or common-law partner, or their children. This means that any dwelling that you own and use personally could qualify, including your home or your cottage.

3. What is the eligibility period?

The credit will be based on eligible expenditures for work performed or goods acquired after January 27, 2009, and before February 1, 2010. Expenditures incurred pursuant to an agreement that was entered into before January 28, 2009, will not be eligible for the credit.

4. Who will be eligible for the credit?

Eligibility for the HRTC will be family based. A family will generally be considered to consist of an individual or an individual and his or her spouse or common-law partner, including children who will be under 18 years of age, at the end of 2009. A family will be allowed a single credit that may be shared within the family.

If two or more families share the ownership of an eligible dwelling, each family will be eligible for their own separate credit (i.e. each up to $1,350) that will be calculated on their respective eligible expenditures.

5. How will the credit be calculated?

The credit will only be available for the 2009 tax year and applies to eligible expenditures of more than $1,000, but not more than $10,000, resulting in a maximum credit of $1,350 ($9,000 x 15%).

6. What are eligible expenditures?

To be eligible, expenditures incurred in relation to a renovation or alteration to an eligible dwelling (or the land that forms part of the eligible dwelling) must be of an enduring nature and integral to the dwelling, and includes the cost of labour and professional services, building materials, fixtures, rentals, and permits.

Eligible expenditures must be supported by acceptable documentation.

7. What does the CRA consider to be acceptable documentation?

Documentation, such as agreements, invoices, and receipts, must clearly identify the type and quantity of goods purchased or services provided, including, but not limited to, the following information:

• information that clearly identifies the vendor/contractor, their business address and, if applicable, the GST/HST registration number;
• a description of the goods and the date when the goods were purchased;
• The date when the goods were delivered (keep your delivery slip as proof) and/or when the work or services were performed;
• A description of the work performed including the address where the work was performed;
• the amount of the invoice; and
• proof of payment.  Receipts or invoices must indicate paid in full or be accompanied by other proof of payment, such as a credit card slip or cancelled cheque.

Please consult our Underground Economy Web page, for tips to protect yourself when hiring a contractor.

To verify whether someone is registered for GST/HST, please consult the GST/HST Registry.

8. If I own both a house and a cottage and incur eligible expenditures for both, are both sets of expenditures eligible for the HRTC?

If you own and use your home and cottage personally, eligible expenditures incurred for both properties will normally qualify for the HRTC. Please note that the maximum amount of eligible expenditures you can claim in respect of the HRTC is $10,000 per family.

9. I am planning to replace my windows in 2009: can I hire my brother-in-law to help me out and still be eligible?

It depends. Expenditures will not be eligible if the related goods or services are provided by a person not dealing at arm’s length with the individual, unless that person is registered for the Goods and Services Tax/Harmonized Sales Tax under the Excise Tax Act. So, in your case, if your brother-in-law is registered for GST/HST and if all other conditions are met, the expenditure will be eligible for the credit.

10. Will expenditures for the common areas of condominiums and co-operative housing corporations qualify for the credit?

In the case of condominiums and co-operative housing corporations, the individual’s share of the cost of eligible expenditures for common areas will qualify.

11. I rent out my basement. If I renovate the basement for my tenant, will I be allowed to claim the credit?

No. Individuals who earn business or rental income from part of their principal residence will be allowed to claim the credit only for expenditures made for the personal-use areas of the residence.

For expenditures made for common areas or that benefit the housing unit as a whole (such as re-shingling a roof), you must divide the expense between personal use and income-earning use. For further information, please consult the Business and Professional Income Guide or the Rental Income Guide, as applicable.

12. If an eligible expenditure also qualifies for the Medical Expense Tax Credit (METC), will I be allowed to claim both the HRTC and METC?

Yes. Where an eligible expenditure qualifies for the METC the individual will be permitted to claim both the METC and the HRTC for that expenditure.

13. Will the credit be reduced by other government grants or credits that I may receive for the same expenditures?

No. Eligible expenditures will not be reduced by other government tax credits or grants that the individual may be entitled to.

14. Does work performed by electricians, plumbers, carpenters, architects, etc. qualify?

Generally, work performed by electricians, plumbers, carpenters, architects, etc. in respect of an eligible expenditure will qualify. See below for examples of eligible expenditures. If you’re planning on hiring a contractor to do construction, renovation, or repair work on your home, the Get it in Writing! Web site has information that will help you.

15. Could you provide me with some examples of eligible and ineligible expenditures?

Yes, some examples are:

16. What types of expenditures will not qualify?

The following expenditures will not be eligible for the HRTC:

• the cost of routine repairs and maintenance normally performed on an annual or more frequent basis;
• expenditures that are not integral to the dwelling, and other indirect expenditures that retain a value independent of the renovation;
• expenditures for appliances and audio-visual electronics; and
• financing costs.

17. Do I have to submit any supporting documents with my income tax return?

No. However, you must ensure that this information is available, should it be requested by the CRA.

18. How will I claim the HRTC?

A new line will be incorporated in the 2009 personal income tax return to allow you to claim the credit.

19. Where can I get more information about this new tax credit?

Additional information will be posted on the CRA’s Web site as it becomes available. In the meantime, please see the Department of Finance’s Budget 2009 documents for details.

20. The Budget also mentions the ecoENERGY Retrofit – Homes grant. What is it and how can I obtain more information?

The ecoENERGY Retrofit – Homes grant is administered by Natural Resources Canada. The grant applies to a host of measures that reduce energy consumption and provide for a cleaner environment. Home and property owners could be eligible for federal grants of up to $5,000 to offset the cost of making energy efficiency improvements to their home or property. Most provinces and territories have complementary programs that offer additional financial assistance based on the results of the ecoENERGY Retrofit evaluation. For information on how you can qualify, please consult the ecoACTION Web site.

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An online pamphlet will soon be available.

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Planning on some home improvements? What project ideas do you have that fits in the $1000-$10,000 range? Does the HRTC give you the incentive to renovate this year?

What? National Home Show
When? Feb. 20 - March 1, 2009!
Where? The Direct Energy Centre, Exhibition Place, 100 Princes’ Blvd.

The largest home show in Toronto is coming up next week with a plethora of home improvement and decor products, accessories, ideas, and celebrity guest appearances.

What to Expect at the Show: (info provided by www.NationalHomeShow.com - visit the official show site for more details)

* The Dream Home – Built by Probuilt by Michael Upshall and styled by Janette Ewen.

* Toronto Star Dream Gardens

* tySTYLE presented by Toshiba

* Colin and Justin, hosts of HGTV’s Home Heist (appearance courtesy of Penguin Books)

* Carson Arthur, host of HGTV’s Green Force

* Scott McGillivray, host of HGTV’s Income Property

* Cheryl Torrenueva, host of HGTV’s Home Heist and Restaurant Makeover

* Corbin Tomaszeski, appearing on HGTV’s Restaurant Makeover

* Igor Shamraychuk, appearing on HGTV’s Restaurant Makeover

Show Date & Hours

Friday, February 20th
11 am to 9pm

Saturday, February 21st
10am to 9pm

Sunday, February 22nd
10am to 6pm

Monday, February 23rd to Friday, February 27th
11 am to 9pm

Saturday, February 28th
10am to 9pm

Sunday, March 1st
10am to 6pm

Admission

Adults: $15.00 (at the door)
Adults: $12.00 (online)
Seniors (65+): $11.00
Seniors: $8.00 (online)
Youth 13 – 17 years: $11.00
Youth 13 – 17 years: $8.00 (online)
Children 12 and under: FREE

* Tickets can be purchased online or at the door. Buy online and save (use promo code:RENOVATION) !

Show Venue & Location

The Direct Energy Centre,
Exhibition Place,
100 Princes’ Blvd.
Toronto ON
416-263-3000

Website:

www.NationalHomeShow.com

Many people have been wondering about the home renovation tax credit and just what exactly it entails.  Information is now available on the Canadian government website, including a pamplet with further details.

Below is a break down of the main points of interest:

What is the time frame during which the credit can be applied?

“…after January 27, 2009 and before February 1, 2010, pursuant to agreements entered into after January 27, 2009.”

For work completed and some necessarily obtained goods!  This credit is for new renovations and ongoing improvements on the residential structure itself, as well as the land it sits on.

What exactly can I get back?

It’s a 15%  credit which can be claimed on an amount which is more than $1000 and under $10,000. The maximum credit that you can obtain is $1350.

What Dwellings are eligible?

* houses

* cottages

* condo units

(must be inhabited or used by the owner)

What Types of expenses can be considered?

* projects (ie: finishing your basement or re-doing the kitchen)

* “associated expenses” (permits, rentals, labour, etc.)

Who is eligible to claim it?

“Taxpayers can claim the HRTC when filing their 2009 tax return…. Family members will be able to share the credit.”