Jim Jennette is HRG’s resident plumbing expert of our popular “Ask the Experts” section, regularly answering the plethora of plumbing questions sent in by our readers. With more than 20 years of plumbing experience, Jim’s extensive knowledge and resources give him the tools to tackle any plumbing issue or question. Jim Jennette works at the Mr. Rooter Corporation now coaching Mr. Rooter franchise owners in every aspect of their businesses as a franchise consultant, a position he’s had for over five years.  Jim is also skilled in garbage disposals, water heaters and boilers as well as pipe bursting and relining, which is new technology to replace broken underground piping without digging up yards and sidewalks.

Here is a round up of some frequently asked questions, which may be of great help to you!

QUESTION: My wife accidentally dropped some coins down the bathroom sink and I would like to know the simplest way to get them out.

You can get the coins out by disconnecting the trap, which is located below the sink and is directly connected to the drain. The trap can hold on to heavier items such as coins or jewelry that are dropped down the sink drain. Using a wrench, you can detach the trap by disconnecting the top and bottom fittings holding it on to the pipes and then unscrewing them. If the trap is chrome or copper, it may have deteriorated over time and could crumble upon removal. If this happens you will need to replace the trap. You can get a replacement trap at a home store or local plumbing supply store. You simply put it back on as it came off. If you are unsure, you may want to call in a plumbing professional. You can always call a plumber to recover the coins if you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself.

QUESTION: My toilet bubbles when I flush it, and the water level rises to the top, almost overflowing and finally sinks back down, but sometimes doesn’t clear what is being flushed. Sometimes the water level stays high and when I plunge it, it’s better but after awhile the same thing happens. Do I need a plumber or can I just get stuff from the store to get it flushing normally again?

No, there is not a simple drain opener you can buy from the store. Since there are a couple different scenarios that could be causing the problem you describe, I would recommend you call a plumbing company. A plumber has the knowledge and tools necessary to repair this problem in a safe and proper way.

The bubbles generally indicate the toilet is gasping for air as it attempts to flush. Your toilet is connected to a house stack, which is a pipe that runs from your sewer line in the opposite way, up through the roof of the building. This allows the pipe to “breath”, allowing an escape for air and creating the partial vacuum that allows the toilet to flush down the sewer pipe. If something has lodged itself in this stack pipe it can prohibit a good flush. The object will need to be removed, usually by a ‘snaking’ operation of the pipe, which a plumber can easily do.

The other possible problem is rare, but on occasion an object can become stuck in the throat of the toilet (the portion you do not see as the flush passes to the sewer line). This may be the reason your plunging will work on occasion. It may dislodge the object for a few flushes but it then reverts back to its former location, blocking the flush again. This can usually be remedied by removing the toilet from the floor and searching for the object from the underside of the toilet. I’ve found small toys and action figures, large plastic caps and even credit cards that can act as a cantilever and lodge permanently in the toilet. Removing any of these objects that cannot be found once the toilet is lifted from the floor may require breaking the toilet and then installing a new one. The toilet would have to be reset to the floor with a new wax seal to prevent leakage. Again, a plumber can do this for you.

QUESTION: the nuts under the sink connected to the water lines are stripped, and my tap wrench cannot grasp the nut, how do I remove them?

I would use a basin wrench, which has a long arm that allows you to reach high into the under sink area. It has a set of ribbed jaws (much like a large wrench) that can grasp a stripped nut or one in a difficult location. You can buy a basin wrench at a local plumbing supply house or a home improvement store.

QUESTION: Over the last few weeks, we have been getting a nasty odour from the kitchen drain. We’ve tried flushing it with Drano, vinegar, baking soda, etc but to no avail. A friend tells me that because the kitchen drain is not vented, the odour is probably sewer gas. We have been in the home 1.5 years so I asked him why we would only be having the problem recently. He stated that because there have been a lot of new homes in the area, there’s likely more pressure on the overall system now and therefore the gas is being forced back through the water in the trap. Any thoughts or suggestions?

The first issue may be rather serious because all waste systems in houses and commercial property must have proper venting. If the line in question is NOT vented, this needs to be corrected immediately. Venting helps provide air to be introduced into the system, assisting in the removal of waste water down drain lines and preventing foul odors.

The other device that is important is the trap under the sink. This device develops a water seal that prevents gases from entering the dwelling and is a critical part of any plumbing system. If the line is vented and there is a trap seal, there is another possibility in cold climates called “hoary frost’ that can develop. It occurs when the venting exiting the roof of the dwelling has ice and snow buildup, and it freezes solid, preventing the house gases from exiting and creating gurgle sounds and possible foul odor in the system.

If you are unsure about which of these effects are taking place, consult a qualified plumber to check it out.

QUESTION: We are getting septic odours from 2nd floor bathroom sink especially in very cold weather. Is water being pulled out of the trap?? What is the fix? No issues with tub or toilet.

Water is being pulled out of the trap. This sort of problem usually occurs in the northern parts of North America, and it usually involves a heavy buildup of snow on the roof. A simple solution would be to cut the vent pipe in the attic area and insert a new longer piece of vent pipe up through the roof. Be sure to reconnect the vent pipe and seal it in. It should be above the deepest anticipated snowfall lines. The only other option would be to defrost the pipe every time it snows, but that is not too practical.

QUESTION: We are planning to renovate our basement bathroom. The existing plumbing pipe for the sink comes up from the floor and it seems that a full vanity is required just to hide this black pipe. The contractor has advised that there is nothing that can be done to change that, and that a pedestal sink or a vanity that is open at the base are not options. There isn’t really enough room for a vanity - one of the cupboard doors on the previous vanity wouldn’t open fully because the toilet is too close. We presume that the plumbing could be changed, but is the contractor really saying that it would be very costly to do so?

The line can be rerouted to accommodate a pedestal sink, but I can’t tell you how much it will cost without looking at it. I would get an estimate from a plumber. How much time and money are you willing to devote to this task? A “false” wall could be constructed and the floor jack hammered up to make the proper moves to accommodate the new fixture. The pipe could then be run up the false wall to the proper height to the rough, which is the point where the pipes protrude from the wall to where the sink will be attached, in the pedestal sink. Remember that the line must be vented to provide air supply to the system and to be in code compliance.

QUESTION: My Bathroom sink takes up to one hour to drain. I have disconnected the trap and cleaned properly. As soon as I unscrew the trap it drain very quickly. But as soon as the trap is reconnected there is no suction to drain the water out of the sink. Please help.

The drain is probably clogged downstream from the trap. It will need to be cleaned out using an electromechanical snaking machine or a high velocity water jetter machine, which is even better. Only a trained professional should use the second choice as other damage may occur if not operated properly.

For more handy tips and info, check out the new “Mrs.” Rooter blog, MrsRooter.com, which will officially launch in September, written by the company president Mary Kennedy Thompson.

Want to renovate your home but don’t feel you can afford it? Well, many homeowners are turning to “phased remodelling”. The National American Remodeling Industry (NARI) recently published a press release that showed homeowners are completing their dream homes step by step. That is, instead of one intensive single project renovation, they are redoing perhaps one room at a time over a longer period. It’s a less intrusive way of remodeling your home and more friendly for the wallet because renos always tend to bring up unexpected costs. A smaller project would be more predictable in terms of following the projected estimate.

So great, if you’ve decided start with redoing either the  kitchen or bathroom first, make sure that any new plumbing is installed correctly.  The City of Toronto has recently put out a new ad campaign blitz regarding water sanitation in renos (well, recent as it’s a month delayed due to the strike). Interested in Green building and energy efficiency? Well, imagine the impact of a “cross connection”. That’s right, it’s integral to make sure not to mix any pipes and you might require certain building permits.  “Sanitary pipes” should be directing any household waste water to the treatment plant and not into stormwater pipes that channel rain water back into the lakes or rivers. For more information, visit the Toronto Website. On a side note, please don’t litter in our local sewer drains because that goes back into Lake Ontario! Not a Toronto resident? Check out your local city regulations.

Serious about eco-building or seriously interested? What about going so far as to make a “solar ventilator” for a doghouse?  In a recent Treehugger.com interview, Steve Thomas, former host of This Old House and now on Planet Green’s Renovation Nation, talks about his kookiest project and other green build topics. Recaps of previous Renovation Nation episodes here.

We were recently contacted with further information to provide homeowners with facts about the 2009 Home Renovation Tax Credit. Great timing since there have been many interesting questions about what projects, materials, or labour are applicable for this credit.

Image provided by Sico Paints

To view the webpages, visit:   http://www.cra-arc.gc.ca/hrtc/

Below, is the FAQ page content, which hopefully will answer some of your questions about how you can benefit from this tax credit.

Here is the link of the page: http://www.cra-arc.gc.ca/gncy/bdgt/2009/fqhmrnvtn-eng.html

FAQS

1. What is the Home Renovation Tax Credit (HRTC)?

The proposed HRTC is a non-refundable tax credit for work performed or goods acquired in respect of an eligible dwelling.

2. What is meant by eligible dwelling?

An eligible dwelling is a housing unit that is eligible to be an individual’s principal residence or that of one or more of their family members, at any time between January 27, 2009 and February 1, 2010. In general, a housing unit is considered eligible to be an individual’s principal residence where it is owned by the individual and ordinarily inhabited by the individual, the individual’s spouse or common-law partner, or their children. This means that any dwelling that you own and use personally could qualify, including your home or your cottage.

3. What is the eligibility period?

The credit will be based on eligible expenditures for work performed or goods acquired after January 27, 2009, and before February 1, 2010. Expenditures incurred pursuant to an agreement that was entered into before January 28, 2009, will not be eligible for the credit.

4. Who will be eligible for the credit?

Eligibility for the HRTC will be family based. A family will generally be considered to consist of an individual or an individual and his or her spouse or common-law partner, including children who will be under 18 years of age, at the end of 2009. A family will be allowed a single credit that may be shared within the family.

If two or more families share the ownership of an eligible dwelling, each family will be eligible for their own separate credit (i.e. each up to $1,350) that will be calculated on their respective eligible expenditures.

5. How will the credit be calculated?

The credit will only be available for the 2009 tax year and applies to eligible expenditures of more than $1,000, but not more than $10,000, resulting in a maximum credit of $1,350 ($9,000 x 15%).

6. What are eligible expenditures?

To be eligible, expenditures incurred in relation to a renovation or alteration to an eligible dwelling (or the land that forms part of the eligible dwelling) must be of an enduring nature and integral to the dwelling, and includes the cost of labour and professional services, building materials, fixtures, rentals, and permits.

Eligible expenditures must be supported by acceptable documentation.

7. What does the CRA consider to be acceptable documentation?

Documentation, such as agreements, invoices, and receipts, must clearly identify the type and quantity of goods purchased or services provided, including, but not limited to, the following information:

• information that clearly identifies the vendor/contractor, their business address and, if applicable, the GST/HST registration number;
• a description of the goods and the date when the goods were purchased;
• The date when the goods were delivered (keep your delivery slip as proof) and/or when the work or services were performed;
• A description of the work performed including the address where the work was performed;
• the amount of the invoice; and
• proof of payment.  Receipts or invoices must indicate paid in full or be accompanied by other proof of payment, such as a credit card slip or cancelled cheque.

Please consult our Underground Economy Web page, for tips to protect yourself when hiring a contractor.

To verify whether someone is registered for GST/HST, please consult the GST/HST Registry.

8. If I own both a house and a cottage and incur eligible expenditures for both, are both sets of expenditures eligible for the HRTC?

If you own and use your home and cottage personally, eligible expenditures incurred for both properties will normally qualify for the HRTC. Please note that the maximum amount of eligible expenditures you can claim in respect of the HRTC is $10,000 per family.

9. I am planning to replace my windows in 2009: can I hire my brother-in-law to help me out and still be eligible?

It depends. Expenditures will not be eligible if the related goods or services are provided by a person not dealing at arm’s length with the individual, unless that person is registered for the Goods and Services Tax/Harmonized Sales Tax under the Excise Tax Act. So, in your case, if your brother-in-law is registered for GST/HST and if all other conditions are met, the expenditure will be eligible for the credit.

10. Will expenditures for the common areas of condominiums and co-operative housing corporations qualify for the credit?

In the case of condominiums and co-operative housing corporations, the individual’s share of the cost of eligible expenditures for common areas will qualify.

11. I rent out my basement. If I renovate the basement for my tenant, will I be allowed to claim the credit?

No. Individuals who earn business or rental income from part of their principal residence will be allowed to claim the credit only for expenditures made for the personal-use areas of the residence.

For expenditures made for common areas or that benefit the housing unit as a whole (such as re-shingling a roof), you must divide the expense between personal use and income-earning use. For further information, please consult the Business and Professional Income Guide or the Rental Income Guide, as applicable.

12. If an eligible expenditure also qualifies for the Medical Expense Tax Credit (METC), will I be allowed to claim both the HRTC and METC?

Yes. Where an eligible expenditure qualifies for the METC the individual will be permitted to claim both the METC and the HRTC for that expenditure.

13. Will the credit be reduced by other government grants or credits that I may receive for the same expenditures?

No. Eligible expenditures will not be reduced by other government tax credits or grants that the individual may be entitled to.

14. Does work performed by electricians, plumbers, carpenters, architects, etc. qualify?

Generally, work performed by electricians, plumbers, carpenters, architects, etc. in respect of an eligible expenditure will qualify. See below for examples of eligible expenditures. If you’re planning on hiring a contractor to do construction, renovation, or repair work on your home, the Get it in Writing! Web site has information that will help you.

15. Could you provide me with some examples of eligible and ineligible expenditures?

Yes, some examples are:

16. What types of expenditures will not qualify?

The following expenditures will not be eligible for the HRTC:

• the cost of routine repairs and maintenance normally performed on an annual or more frequent basis;
• expenditures that are not integral to the dwelling, and other indirect expenditures that retain a value independent of the renovation;
• expenditures for appliances and audio-visual electronics; and
• financing costs.

17. Do I have to submit any supporting documents with my income tax return?

No. However, you must ensure that this information is available, should it be requested by the CRA.

18. How will I claim the HRTC?

A new line will be incorporated in the 2009 personal income tax return to allow you to claim the credit.

19. Where can I get more information about this new tax credit?

Additional information will be posted on the CRA’s Web site as it becomes available. In the meantime, please see the Department of Finance’s Budget 2009 documents for details.

20. The Budget also mentions the ecoENERGY Retrofit – Homes grant. What is it and how can I obtain more information?

The ecoENERGY Retrofit – Homes grant is administered by Natural Resources Canada. The grant applies to a host of measures that reduce energy consumption and provide for a cleaner environment. Home and property owners could be eligible for federal grants of up to $5,000 to offset the cost of making energy efficiency improvements to their home or property. Most provinces and territories have complementary programs that offer additional financial assistance based on the results of the ecoENERGY Retrofit evaluation. For information on how you can qualify, please consult the ecoACTION Web site.

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An online pamphlet will soon be available.

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Planning on some home improvements? What project ideas do you have that fits in the $1000-$10,000 range? Does the HRTC give you the incentive to renovate this year?

Many people have been wondering about the home renovation tax credit and just what exactly it entails.  Information is now available on the Canadian government website, including a pamplet with further details.

Below is a break down of the main points of interest:

What is the time frame during which the credit can be applied?

“…after January 27, 2009 and before February 1, 2010, pursuant to agreements entered into after January 27, 2009.”

For work completed and some necessarily obtained goods!  This credit is for new renovations and ongoing improvements on the residential structure itself, as well as the land it sits on.

What exactly can I get back?

It’s a 15%  credit which can be claimed on an amount which is more than $1000 and under $10,000. The maximum credit that you can obtain is $1350.

What Dwellings are eligible?

* houses

* cottages

* condo units

(must be inhabited or used by the owner)

What Types of expenses can be considered?

* projects (ie: finishing your basement or re-doing the kitchen)

* “associated expenses” (permits, rentals, labour, etc.)

Who is eligible to claim it?

“Taxpayers can claim the HRTC when filing their 2009 tax return…. Family members will be able to share the credit.”

The 10th annual Interior Design Show was held a few weeks ago in Toronto, and although the bitter cold has turned everything snow white, the real colour of choice this year is, you guessed it, green.

IDS 08 featured a seminar on the benefits of sustainable design, from your home’s mechanical systems (heating, cooling, ventilation) to design (passive solar) to furniture and fixtures. Sustainability permeated every corner of interior design, as shown by the new products on display at the show.
Luckily, you didn’t have to come to Toronto to find these goods. Here’s a sampling of the new, the cool, the green.

Rad Rads
Belgian manufacturer Jaga has transformed boring—albeit efficient—radiators into objets d’arte. First there’s Angula Plus, which, unlike a traditional rad, fixes around 90-degree corners with a thin width that makes it perfect for small spaces, such as entranceways and bathrooms. But it’s the Heatwave (pictured below), designed by Joris Laarman, that will cause your head to spin.

Unbeatable Underfoot
Forget hardwood flooring and look to its evolution with Plyboo, a laminated bamboo material that can be used for flooring, paneling and plywood. Plyboo has been recognized by the Leadership in Environmental Design (LEED) certification system for its durability, and its composition from 100 per cent bamboo grass means the resources used can be replenished without needing to replant them.

Let it Flow
American Standard’s new FloWise high-efficiency toilet is the Cadillac—the Michael Caine—of toilets. Not only is it stylish and easy to clean (if there’s anywhere for an anti-microbial surface, it’s definitely the toilet)it also uses 20 per cent less water than standard, 1.6-gallon-per-flush toilets, and comes with a 10-year warranty.

Rock On
South African designer Ronel Jordaan has taken our fixation with fixing the planet and turned it into rock—well, soft—solid comfort. 100 per cent wool rock-shaped cushions and pebble carpets contain fibres that link when rubbed together, bringing nature inside, while keeping things comfy.

If you are considering renovating your home, buying a home to renovate, or flipping a house, this will give you some insight as to what it really takes to do a total home renovation.

Week 3 and 4
After gutting the entire interior of the house, the wiring, and plumbing, needs to be replaced. Seeming these are things that I am not willing to allow my husband to do, in fear that he might blow himself or the house up, we brought in the professionals!

After these two weeks, the stress scale hit a nine on the stress “o” meter. Some problems we came across were:

Issue #1 was finding a good plumber and electrician. No easy task! There are a number of excellent resources available such as the Home Renovation Guide that can make the search easier, but we knew that with the amount of work that was apparent, both these teams would be in the house for at least a week each.

The Plumber!
The plumber was great in the end. After 5 days they had completed all that was needed (which was everything!). Every pipe in the house was replaced, as it had been 80 years since anything had been. Additionally, the hot water tank needed to be move to open up the space in the laundry room, the basin sinks relocated to accommodate the washer dryer, and a drain needed to be dug up in the basement and run out side, to eliminate further water damage, and the list ran on, and on, and on.

Issues Encountered
The main pipe that ran from the basement, up through the kitchen, and then up into the bathroom, was rotten! This was something that we thought (the plumbers and us), would have been okay as it was the original cast iron pipe. Of course with replacement, come added costs, and more time. However, replacing this also eliminated the smell of urine that was so predominate.

The second major problem we ran into was in the basement. As mentioned earlier a drain needed to be created outside that would act as a place for the water run off instead of going into the basement. Once they began digging the way for the pipe, they realized that the pipe they were going to link to was broken. So add another day, and more money.

Over all because we supplied the materials, and were able to work out flat rates with them, we were only $245 over the plumbing budget, but still had significant savings from the original quote.

Electrical
Well, knob-and-tube is just as confusing as it sounds. Who really knows how it works, and why it was legal? With the condition of the knob and tube, the house would have burned down long before the breaker went … words right from the electrician.

Again, we supplied the materials, which helped save money, but it was also time consuming because there were things that we could not find easily. That said, here are some of the “fun” encounters we had:

• Time - these guys are not timely! As patience is a virtue, one in which I try hard to possess, without success, this was terrible for me! They make their own schedule, and seemed to have dragged things on for over two weeks, while it could have been done in 5 days if they worked consecutive days.

• Of course, there were problems! Trying to feed the new lines through the house prompted some harsh words under the breath of the electrical team. Because of the board and batten walls that currently existed, it was not easy to get the lines up. Moreover, the existing electrical in the house was sparse, so there were a lot of new light fixtures, switches and outlets put in to get the house up to code.

In the end, the electrician has to come back once more after the drywall is finished to put up the faceplates and futures.

Well, these two weeks were not as exciting as next week, when we stop demolishing and start rebuilding! Yep, the walls are going up, and the exterior is being started.

Suggestions
Here are a few suggestions to make sure that your stress “o” meter doesn’t hit the 10!

• Ask if you can supply the materials. This saved us a great deal of money by avoiding the mark-up of at least 10%.

• Ask if you can pay a flat rate instead of by the hour. That way they want the job done speedily as well.

• Get at least 2 quotes to hear out any suggestions that they may have. Contractors can tell you how to save space, money and time if you listen, and you can see what they offer that is different if the prices really vary.

• Lastly, you are going to have to interact with the people you hire, so like them! Money is not always the deciding factor, your sanity is too…

Finding a good contractor need not be an impossible challenge, here are some great tips to help locate a great contractor, the questions to ask, and other valuable information.

How to Locate a Great Contractor
If you are thinking about renovating your home, you may have a style that prefer. Drive around a few neighbourhoods to see what you like, you may seen several signs for contractors in the area.
The HomeRenovationGuide can provide you with great contractors that service your area, and you can see their portfolios online.
If you know a reliable trades person such as a plumber, or electrician, ask them if they have worked with someone they would recommend.

Questions to Ask
Are they bonded, licensed, insured, and covered by workers’ compensation insurance?
What is the time line of your project. Start dates, completion dates, any pauses between phases if the project is large?
Have them provide you with a quote that is detailed so you can review and inquire about charges that you are not clear on.

Money / Payment
What is the rate? (smaller projects)
What is the total cost (larger projects) and what is included. Some companies bill only for hours and you pay the material costs direct, others will build in the materials cost. Be sure you know what you are getting so you can accurately compare.
What is the payment schedule? Some require a deposit so make sure you are informed before you agree.

Other Tips to Remember
Trust your instincts. Personal fit is important; depending on the size of your project you can be face to face with this person for several months.
A good contractor will ask you as many questions as you ask them. This is a great indication that they care about your project and want to ensure you are happy, so be open and let them know your bottom line and what you must have and what you dislike.

Sooner or later we all need to call a plumber. A plumber is expensive and there’s no way around that. But there are a variety of ways to get the most value for your money. This guide will highlight the most effective ways to save money on plumbing.

Compare Hourly Rates

The first, and often only thing, that consumers zero in on when comparing plumbers is their hourly rate. People figure that they should hire the “reputable firm” with the lowest rate. Sounds simple and direct but it doesn’t always work.

The first concern is with the concept of “reputable.” For most people, if they have heard the name many times over the years, they feel that the firm must have an established reputation. Unfortunately, this is often untrue. In the plumbing field, in particular, several of the most highly promoted companies have the worst track records.

The second problem with the hourly rate is that it is difficult to compare rates because of the many ways plumbers count the hours. Travel time is a factor that should be considered. Plumbers spend a good part of their day driving from job to job. They must be compensated for this time.

The bottom line is that it is very difficult to make objective comparisons between two plumbers’ hourly rates. But there is an even bigger problem with focusing on hourly rates. The issue of quality should be considered.

The best way to select a plumber is on his overall ability to deliver customer satisfaction consistently. Costumer satisfaction takes into account all of these issues and constitutes an accurate indication of value received.

Minimize Need

An entirely different approach to saving money on plumbing is to reduce the need to call them at all. The most common plumbing calls have to do with drains. Many homes have one or two problem drains and several that never need any attention at all.

Grease tends to build up over time. You can counteract this by doing things to reduce the grease buildup. There are several products available designed to reduce grease build up. Experiment with these and you may find you can stay one step ahead of a clogged drain indefinitely. Some people have found success with just pouring boiling sudsy water down the drain periodically to reduce grease buildup.

In most cases, hair can be trapped in some sort of screen or drain cover. Talk to your plumber next time he’s there and ask about suggested ways to prevent the hair from getting in the drain. It’s much easier to gather hair off the screen periodically than it is to deal with a clogged pipe.

Another costly, but preventable, problem is frozen pipes. Make sure that all your pipes are in heated spaces. If any are not, make sure they are well insulated. Each fall, when the weather turns colder, disconnect and drain your garden hoses, turn-off the indoor cut-off valve located near the faucet, and open the outdoor faucet. If there is no cut-off valve, consider installing one. Any water left in pipes exposed to below-zero temperatures will freeze.

Buy Your Own Fixtures

A popular and effective way to save money is to buy your own fixtures. Traditionally, plumbers sell you the toilets, sinks, faucets etc. that they install. Typically they’ll get the items at a discount and charge you full price. In part, this is to make money and in part this is to cover the costs of dealing with purchases, returns, storage etc. In recent years, however, some of the home center stores now charge you prices that are even lower than the contractor prices that plumbers pay their suppliers. One result is that plumbers are shopping more and more at the same stores you are. There are many instances where you will do better buying your own fixtures, providing you have the time to invest in shopping around.

While this approach can save you big bucks, there are three caveats to keep in mind. First, many fixtures that appear to be great buys are poorly made or are missing adapters, installing kits or other components that normally come with similar products. Shop carefully.

Second, if you supply the fixture and the plumber installs it and something goes wrong, there is likely to be some confusion as to whose responsibility it is. One way to get around this is to check with the plumber up front about what brands or lines he recommends and then buy those brands.

Checking with the plumber up front also gets you around the third problem. Every product or line of products has its own installation quirks. Choosing a fixture that is familiar to your plumber assures that you will get the full advantage of his expertise and experience. If instead, you choose something he’s never worked with, expect that you’ll be paying for some on-the-job learning mistakes.

cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com

Soma sits in an old Riverside building on one of the east end’s busiest — and formerly one of its seediest — corners, in a neighbourhood with virtually no nightlife (besides the hard-to-miss Jilly’s strip club, of course).

The choice of location may seem like a gamble to some, but a recent boom in activity on the Queen East strip, and a desperate need for an upscale neighbourhood lounge, has enabled Soma to pack the house almost every night since its opening.

In fact, the building had not been upgraded since 1902 and had to be completely gutted to create Soma. Previously a martial arts studio, it had no plumbing and even had an asphalt floor, making it a bit of an indoor driveway. However, despite many people’s disbelief and a year of transformation, the owners of Soma built a restaurant and lounge from scratch and have unveiled one of the Toronto’s most stunning new lounges, designed with the building’s history in mind.

An original secret passageway at the side of the room was restored and is now used for service staff, so you never see a parade of dirty dishes or encounter what would have been congestion by the washrooms and kitchen doors. The exposed brick behind the concrete bar is the building’s original, and any bricks removed during construction were saved to use on the exterior of the building.

But as old as its history may be, the new definitely comes out with the rest of the place. A sleek, modern lounge area sits in the front, with comfy black leather couches and ottomans, and tables line the back for either drinkers or diners. Most of Soma’s decor is black, grey and white except for the occasional screaming yellow wall.

WHERE: 703 Queen St. E. Toronto, ON

WHO YOU WILL MEET: East-enders desperate for an upscale place to go without having to cross that bridge into downtown. A big part of their clientele comes from the film industry from nearby lofts and studios.

TIP: Check out Soma’s stunning light fixtures. They were purchased from Italy and installed by a local Leslieviller, and kind of look like exploding silver flowers. Very cool.

Placing a sub floor over a concrete is one way to help you finish off your basement. The sub floor will act as a level base and not be as cold on the feet. When you’re getting ready, prepare the surrounding area properly, ensuring that water will not seep through to the concrete underneath.

Map It Out
Plan your renovation by drawing it out on some graph paper, using each square as per square. Calculate the number and length of 2″ x 3″ strips of wood required for the area of the basement. Then, measure and calculate the length and amount of 2″ x 3″ pieces needed for sleeper, which you will nail on 40 cm (16 inch) centres. Lastly, measure the number of 4′ x 8′ fibre or plywood pieces that you will need to cover the sub floor.

Waterproofing
Place 6mm polyethylene on top of the concrete to act as a barrier and prevent humidity to the ground floor. Be sure to leave about 4 inches of polyethylene along the side of each wall. This will prevent any further humidity damage.

Note: Instead of 6mm polyethylene, you can also use a 15 lb felt paper.

Framing
Build a sub floor frame throughout the basement along the floor. Using 2″ x 3″ strips of wood, place them directly on top of the 6mm polyethylene along each wall of the basement. Now, using a 16-inch centre, place sleepers throughout the frame, making sure that the first sleeper is 16 inches from the wall with the rest being 16 inches apart. Be sure to lay the sleeper in the direction to the smallest area of the room.

Making it Level
Make sure that the sleepers are level. You may have to use shims in order to get the entire floor leveled - this is very important. After they are leveled, anchor them to the concrete floor using a concrete drill or ramset. Allow a distance of 12 inches between each nail. Cut off the excess polyethylene with a utility knife. Using a pencil, mark the placement of each sleeper along the basement walls as a template for when the sheets of plywood.

Laying It All Down
Before laying down the fibre or plywood, ensure that they are 5/8″ thick. Also, apply a strong adhesive to each sleeper throughout the basement prior to laying the sheets down. Make sure that you stagger the plywood sheets from one sheet to the next, creating a stronger floor area. Place the sheets perpendicular to the sleepers, making sure that they are parallel to the shortest wall. Now, using the templated pencil marks, screw in the sheets of plywood to the sleepers and framing. Space out the screws approximately 12 inches while using 1-1/2″ wood screws.

You will be able to find or rent all the tools and materials at your local building supply store.

Chris Paulsen
cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com