The 10th annual Interior Design Show was held a few weeks ago in Toronto, and although the bitter cold has turned everything snow white, the real colour of choice this year is, you guessed it, green.

IDS 08 featured a seminar on the benefits of sustainable design, from your home’s mechanical systems (heating, cooling, ventilation) to design (passive solar) to furniture and fixtures. Sustainability permeated every corner of interior design, as shown by the new products on display at the show.
Luckily, you didn’t have to come to Toronto to find these goods. Here’s a sampling of the new, the cool, the green.

Rad Rads
Belgian manufacturer Jaga has transformed boring—albeit efficient—radiators into objets d’arte. First there’s Angula Plus, which, unlike a traditional rad, fixes around 90-degree corners with a thin width that makes it perfect for small spaces, such as entranceways and bathrooms. But it’s the Heatwave (pictured below), designed by Joris Laarman, that will cause your head to spin.

Unbeatable Underfoot
Forget hardwood flooring and look to its evolution with Plyboo, a laminated bamboo material that can be used for flooring, paneling and plywood. Plyboo has been recognized by the Leadership in Environmental Design (LEED) certification system for its durability, and its composition from 100 per cent bamboo grass means the resources used can be replenished without needing to replant them.

Let it Flow
American Standard’s new FloWise high-efficiency toilet is the Cadillac—the Michael Caine—of toilets. Not only is it stylish and easy to clean (if there’s anywhere for an anti-microbial surface, it’s definitely the toilet)it also uses 20 per cent less water than standard, 1.6-gallon-per-flush toilets, and comes with a 10-year warranty.

Rock On
South African designer Ronel Jordaan has taken our fixation with fixing the planet and turned it into rock—well, soft—solid comfort. 100 per cent wool rock-shaped cushions and pebble carpets contain fibres that link when rubbed together, bringing nature inside, while keeping things comfy.

If you are considering renovating your home, buying a home to renovate, or flipping a house, this will give you some insight as to what it really takes to do a total home renovation.

Week 3 and 4
After gutting the entire interior of the house, the wiring, and plumbing, needs to be replaced. Seeming these are things that I am not willing to allow my husband to do, in fear that he might blow himself or the house up, we brought in the professionals!

After these two weeks, the stress scale hit a nine on the stress “o” meter. Some problems we came across were:

Issue #1 was finding a good plumber and electrician. No easy task! There are a number of excellent resources available such as the Home Renovation Guide that can make the search easier, but we knew that with the amount of work that was apparent, both these teams would be in the house for at least a week each.

The Plumber!
The plumber was great in the end. After 5 days they had completed all that was needed (which was everything!). Every pipe in the house was replaced, as it had been 80 years since anything had been. Additionally, the hot water tank needed to be move to open up the space in the laundry room, the basin sinks relocated to accommodate the washer dryer, and a drain needed to be dug up in the basement and run out side, to eliminate further water damage, and the list ran on, and on, and on.

Issues Encountered
The main pipe that ran from the basement, up through the kitchen, and then up into the bathroom, was rotten! This was something that we thought (the plumbers and us), would have been okay as it was the original cast iron pipe. Of course with replacement, come added costs, and more time. However, replacing this also eliminated the smell of urine that was so predominate.

The second major problem we ran into was in the basement. As mentioned earlier a drain needed to be created outside that would act as a place for the water run off instead of going into the basement. Once they began digging the way for the pipe, they realized that the pipe they were going to link to was broken. So add another day, and more money.

Over all because we supplied the materials, and were able to work out flat rates with them, we were only $245 over the plumbing budget, but still had significant savings from the original quote.

Electrical
Well, knob-and-tube is just as confusing as it sounds. Who really knows how it works, and why it was legal? With the condition of the knob and tube, the house would have burned down long before the breaker went … words right from the electrician.

Again, we supplied the materials, which helped save money, but it was also time consuming because there were things that we could not find easily. That said, here are some of the “fun” encounters we had:

• Time - these guys are not timely! As patience is a virtue, one in which I try hard to possess, without success, this was terrible for me! They make their own schedule, and seemed to have dragged things on for over two weeks, while it could have been done in 5 days if they worked consecutive days.

• Of course, there were problems! Trying to feed the new lines through the house prompted some harsh words under the breath of the electrical team. Because of the board and batten walls that currently existed, it was not easy to get the lines up. Moreover, the existing electrical in the house was sparse, so there were a lot of new light fixtures, switches and outlets put in to get the house up to code.

In the end, the electrician has to come back once more after the drywall is finished to put up the faceplates and futures.

Well, these two weeks were not as exciting as next week, when we stop demolishing and start rebuilding! Yep, the walls are going up, and the exterior is being started.

Suggestions
Here are a few suggestions to make sure that your stress “o” meter doesn’t hit the 10!

• Ask if you can supply the materials. This saved us a great deal of money by avoiding the mark-up of at least 10%.

• Ask if you can pay a flat rate instead of by the hour. That way they want the job done speedily as well.

• Get at least 2 quotes to hear out any suggestions that they may have. Contractors can tell you how to save space, money and time if you listen, and you can see what they offer that is different if the prices really vary.

• Lastly, you are going to have to interact with the people you hire, so like them! Money is not always the deciding factor, your sanity is too…

Finding a good contractor need not be an impossible challenge, here are some great tips to help locate a great contractor, the questions to ask, and other valuable information.

How to Locate a Great Contractor
If you are thinking about renovating your home, you may have a style that prefer. Drive around a few neighbourhoods to see what you like, you may seen several signs for contractors in the area.
The HomeRenovationGuide can provide you with great contractors that service your area, and you can see their portfolios online.
If you know a reliable trades person such as a plumber, or electrician, ask them if they have worked with someone they would recommend.

Questions to Ask
Are they bonded, licensed, insured, and covered by workers’ compensation insurance?
What is the time line of your project. Start dates, completion dates, any pauses between phases if the project is large?
Have them provide you with a quote that is detailed so you can review and inquire about charges that you are not clear on.

Money / Payment
What is the rate? (smaller projects)
What is the total cost (larger projects) and what is included. Some companies bill only for hours and you pay the material costs direct, others will build in the materials cost. Be sure you know what you are getting so you can accurately compare.
What is the payment schedule? Some require a deposit so make sure you are informed before you agree.

Other Tips to Remember
Trust your instincts. Personal fit is important; depending on the size of your project you can be face to face with this person for several months.
A good contractor will ask you as many questions as you ask them. This is a great indication that they care about your project and want to ensure you are happy, so be open and let them know your bottom line and what you must have and what you dislike.

Sooner or later we all need to call a plumber. A plumber is expensive and there’s no way around that. But there are a variety of ways to get the most value for your money. This guide will highlight the most effective ways to save money on plumbing.

Compare Hourly Rates

The first, and often only thing, that consumers zero in on when comparing plumbers is their hourly rate. People figure that they should hire the “reputable firm” with the lowest rate. Sounds simple and direct but it doesn’t always work.

The first concern is with the concept of “reputable.” For most people, if they have heard the name many times over the years, they feel that the firm must have an established reputation. Unfortunately, this is often untrue. In the plumbing field, in particular, several of the most highly promoted companies have the worst track records.

The second problem with the hourly rate is that it is difficult to compare rates because of the many ways plumbers count the hours. Travel time is a factor that should be considered. Plumbers spend a good part of their day driving from job to job. They must be compensated for this time.

The bottom line is that it is very difficult to make objective comparisons between two plumbers’ hourly rates. But there is an even bigger problem with focusing on hourly rates. The issue of quality should be considered.

The best way to select a plumber is on his overall ability to deliver customer satisfaction consistently. Costumer satisfaction takes into account all of these issues and constitutes an accurate indication of value received.

Minimize Need

An entirely different approach to saving money on plumbing is to reduce the need to call them at all. The most common plumbing calls have to do with drains. Many homes have one or two problem drains and several that never need any attention at all.

Grease tends to build up over time. You can counteract this by doing things to reduce the grease buildup. There are several products available designed to reduce grease build up. Experiment with these and you may find you can stay one step ahead of a clogged drain indefinitely. Some people have found success with just pouring boiling sudsy water down the drain periodically to reduce grease buildup.

In most cases, hair can be trapped in some sort of screen or drain cover. Talk to your plumber next time he’s there and ask about suggested ways to prevent the hair from getting in the drain. It’s much easier to gather hair off the screen periodically than it is to deal with a clogged pipe.

Another costly, but preventable, problem is frozen pipes. Make sure that all your pipes are in heated spaces. If any are not, make sure they are well insulated. Each fall, when the weather turns colder, disconnect and drain your garden hoses, turn-off the indoor cut-off valve located near the faucet, and open the outdoor faucet. If there is no cut-off valve, consider installing one. Any water left in pipes exposed to below-zero temperatures will freeze.

Buy Your Own Fixtures

A popular and effective way to save money is to buy your own fixtures. Traditionally, plumbers sell you the toilets, sinks, faucets etc. that they install. Typically they’ll get the items at a discount and charge you full price. In part, this is to make money and in part this is to cover the costs of dealing with purchases, returns, storage etc. In recent years, however, some of the home center stores now charge you prices that are even lower than the contractor prices that plumbers pay their suppliers. One result is that plumbers are shopping more and more at the same stores you are. There are many instances where you will do better buying your own fixtures, providing you have the time to invest in shopping around.

While this approach can save you big bucks, there are three caveats to keep in mind. First, many fixtures that appear to be great buys are poorly made or are missing adapters, installing kits or other components that normally come with similar products. Shop carefully.

Second, if you supply the fixture and the plumber installs it and something goes wrong, there is likely to be some confusion as to whose responsibility it is. One way to get around this is to check with the plumber up front about what brands or lines he recommends and then buy those brands.

Checking with the plumber up front also gets you around the third problem. Every product or line of products has its own installation quirks. Choosing a fixture that is familiar to your plumber assures that you will get the full advantage of his expertise and experience. If instead, you choose something he’s never worked with, expect that you’ll be paying for some on-the-job learning mistakes.

cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com

Soma sits in an old Riverside building on one of the east end’s busiest — and formerly one of its seediest — corners, in a neighbourhood with virtually no nightlife (besides the hard-to-miss Jilly’s strip club, of course).

The choice of location may seem like a gamble to some, but a recent boom in activity on the Queen East strip, and a desperate need for an upscale neighbourhood lounge, has enabled Soma to pack the house almost every night since its opening.

In fact, the building had not been upgraded since 1902 and had to be completely gutted to create Soma. Previously a martial arts studio, it had no plumbing and even had an asphalt floor, making it a bit of an indoor driveway. However, despite many people’s disbelief and a year of transformation, the owners of Soma built a restaurant and lounge from scratch and have unveiled one of the Toronto’s most stunning new lounges, designed with the building’s history in mind.

An original secret passageway at the side of the room was restored and is now used for service staff, so you never see a parade of dirty dishes or encounter what would have been congestion by the washrooms and kitchen doors. The exposed brick behind the concrete bar is the building’s original, and any bricks removed during construction were saved to use on the exterior of the building.

But as old as its history may be, the new definitely comes out with the rest of the place. A sleek, modern lounge area sits in the front, with comfy black leather couches and ottomans, and tables line the back for either drinkers or diners. Most of Soma’s decor is black, grey and white except for the occasional screaming yellow wall.

WHERE: 703 Queen St. E. Toronto, ON

WHO YOU WILL MEET: East-enders desperate for an upscale place to go without having to cross that bridge into downtown. A big part of their clientele comes from the film industry from nearby lofts and studios.

TIP: Check out Soma’s stunning light fixtures. They were purchased from Italy and installed by a local Leslieviller, and kind of look like exploding silver flowers. Very cool.

Placing a sub floor over a concrete is one way to help you finish off your basement. The sub floor will act as a level base and not be as cold on the feet. When you’re getting ready, prepare the surrounding area properly, ensuring that water will not seep through to the concrete underneath.

Map It Out
Plan your renovation by drawing it out on some graph paper, using each square as per square. Calculate the number and length of 2″ x 3″ strips of wood required for the area of the basement. Then, measure and calculate the length and amount of 2″ x 3″ pieces needed for sleeper, which you will nail on 40 cm (16 inch) centres. Lastly, measure the number of 4′ x 8′ fibre or plywood pieces that you will need to cover the sub floor.

Waterproofing
Place 6mm polyethylene on top of the concrete to act as a barrier and prevent humidity to the ground floor. Be sure to leave about 4 inches of polyethylene along the side of each wall. This will prevent any further humidity damage.

Note: Instead of 6mm polyethylene, you can also use a 15 lb felt paper.

Framing
Build a sub floor frame throughout the basement along the floor. Using 2″ x 3″ strips of wood, place them directly on top of the 6mm polyethylene along each wall of the basement. Now, using a 16-inch centre, place sleepers throughout the frame, making sure that the first sleeper is 16 inches from the wall with the rest being 16 inches apart. Be sure to lay the sleeper in the direction to the smallest area of the room.

Making it Level
Make sure that the sleepers are level. You may have to use shims in order to get the entire floor leveled - this is very important. After they are leveled, anchor them to the concrete floor using a concrete drill or ramset. Allow a distance of 12 inches between each nail. Cut off the excess polyethylene with a utility knife. Using a pencil, mark the placement of each sleeper along the basement walls as a template for when the sheets of plywood.

Laying It All Down
Before laying down the fibre or plywood, ensure that they are 5/8″ thick. Also, apply a strong adhesive to each sleeper throughout the basement prior to laying the sheets down. Make sure that you stagger the plywood sheets from one sheet to the next, creating a stronger floor area. Place the sheets perpendicular to the sleepers, making sure that they are parallel to the shortest wall. Now, using the templated pencil marks, screw in the sheets of plywood to the sleepers and framing. Space out the screws approximately 12 inches while using 1-1/2″ wood screws.

You will be able to find or rent all the tools and materials at your local building supply store.

Chris Paulsen
cpaulsen@homerenovationguide.com

Home sellers have one goal: to sell their home for the most amount of money they can get. A home in move-in condition makes meeting this ideal easier.

Many of today’s prospective homebuyers have busy lifestyles and are looking for properties that don’t require a lot of work. Homeowners should be proactive by making needed repairs before putting their homes on the market. Inspect both inside and outside the home, and make a checklist of practical and aesthetic repairs.

Some things to improve upon:

• apply a fresh coat of paint on the walls, doors, and shutters

• clean the carpet and buff and polish wooden floors

• repair cracks in sidewalks and driveways, and clean any stains on them; reseal the deck

• replace missing or warped roofing

• clean or re-grout kitchen and bathrooms

• repair dripping faucets and drains or plumbing fixtures that aren’t operating; tighten and polish hardware

• fix sticking doors and replace old locks and doorknobs

• replace burned-out bulbs and broken electrical sockets, as well as cracked windows, torn screens and broken fencing

• clean up stains on the tiles and countertops

We also recommend hiring a certified home inspector to thoroughly and impartially evaluate the property. A standard report will review the condition of the home’s heating system, central air conditioning, plumbing and electrical systems, the roof, attic, walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors, the foundation, basement and visible structure. If the pre-inspection results in a checklist of things to be done, let your agent look over the report with you to help prioritize the list of repairs. Your goals and local market conditions may dictate how extensive your repairs need to be.

A waterproof system will protect your home from cracks caused by water, settling and expansion/shrinkage in the summer and winter. Over 40% of new homes have water problems within the first three years after construction. By law, builders only have to provide a two-year warranty, so be sure to check the fine print of your purchasing agreement.

Water damage only gets worse the longer that you leave it. Water leaks will penetrate your foundation, slip into cracks and slowly break them down — something people often forget is that concrete is porous. Although it is expensive to repair, the value of your house will drop a lot farther in price if there is water damage. Another factor that water damage brings is mold, which can create possible health hazards for you and your family.

Any new residential construction can be waterproofed the right way because the foundation is exposed. The most cost-effective way is to spray a rubberized coating onto the exterior walls. This fills in all the areas of the walls and acts as a membrane, keeping water out. It can be done by the ‘do it yourselfer‘, but you need to do your homework and seek some expert advice beforehand. Other products include cementitious and sheet membranes, hot tar or bentonite. Make sure you get several quotes and recommendations in regards to the leakage.

This was a problem for a senior citizen in Toronto who had a serious issue! Beth lives in a bungalow (no basement) and her hot water tank was located in a room behind her kitchen. The shut-off valve was rusted through and dripping, damaging her floors in the utility room and even flowing into her kitchen where the vinyl tiles were popping up. She called three different plumbers in Toronto, however they all wanted to charge her over $200 to replace about 6 inches of pipe and the valve (work would take approximately 20 minutes). Beth was able to finally get it fixed after she received our fall 2006 print directory. She contacted one of our plumbers who were able to help her out and even give a senior’s discount!

For more information regarding the Home Renovation Guide, please check us out at http://www.homerenovationguide.com.
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