by Vicky Sanderson

For the home renovation enthusiast, Christmas is a great time to ask for gifts that fill in the holes in his or her tool arsenal. For those who benefit from these handy folk, it’s a good time to show how much you appreciate all they do. So whether you’re writing your own letter to Santa, or checking off boxes on your shopping list, here are some great gift ideas.

Having a grease monkey – even an amateur one— in the family can be very useful. Prove your gratitude by putting under the tree a Stanley FatMax Mechanics Tool Set www.stanleytools.com. There are several kits in this category, but the one that caught my eye was the 142-piece Socket Set, in part because while it normally sells for about $200, it’s on sale now at Canadian Tire www.CanadianTire.ca for $99. These socket sets are forged from high-quality chrome vanadium, so they resist corrosion and rust, even in a rough and tumble garage environment. Markings are easy to read because they’re laser-etched on each of the tools, which are designed to deliver good torque with less slippage. That means work gets done more quickly and more effectively.

For anyone with home reno plans, a cordless battery drill would be a welcome gift. Fortunately, you don’t have to spend too much to offer a great tool. Black and Decker www.blackanddecker.com has a new 12-volt model that punches above its weight. It has a lithium battery, which means it’s considerably lighter than tools with NiCd batteries, and about two-thirds the size. It has an LED work light, holds the charge about five times longer than conventional models, and will maintain a charge for about 500 days. An 11-position gear box helps users avoid stripping gears, and bit changes are easy. At about $60, it’s an affordable gift that will be used and valued for many years to come.

Need a small gift for a first-time homeowner, newly-wed couple or someone who recently downsized to a condo? Pick up a Stanley household accessory kit (about $12 at Wal-Mart). It has a great selection of nails, thumbtacks, anchors, screws, picture wire, picture hooks, hangers, cup hooks and sawtooth hanger nails — all in a handy plastic carrying case.

If you do have a new homeowner on your list, chances are they are feeling financial pressure to forgo those little touches that turn a room into an attractive personal space. You can offer a touch of glam, without busting your own holiday budget, by choosing a small décor accessory that fits their look. Check out the wonderful selection of fashion lighting at Bouclair www.bouclair.com or choose a glittery treat from their fun seasonal offering.

The Breville Smart Oven www.breville.ca will allow any home cook to expand his or her repertoire and get healthy, tasty meals on the table more quickly. What a gift that could be! This stainless steel counter-top oven has a cavity generous enough to fit a whole chicken, but its relatively small footprint won’t hog space in the kitchen, and it offers extra cooking area when preparing food for a crowd (such as that painting party you’re planning for next spring!) Another terrific feature — the top does double duty as a plate warmer. The convection option cooks food about 30 per cent faster than a conventional oven, which means – for example — that you can put a home-made pie in the oven when folks sit down to dinner and have it picture-perfect by dessert time. At about $300, this may be a “splurge” gift for your favourite cook — or yourself. But it’s also an investment that will pay off dividends of healthy eating and more family time for years to come.

Wake Up Light

Got a friend or family member who is consistently not a “morning person”? Give the gift of better mornings with Philips’ Wake Up Light www.philips.ca, which combines a clock, FM radio and alarm. Best of all, it also has a light that simulates dawn, so that the user is slowly wakened over half an hour, which for most people, is far less disruptive than waking up to a clanging alarm. The Wake-Up Light can be programmed with four nature sounds at the end of the half-hour wake-up period, or custom sounds can be programmed via a USB key. I’ve heard of these lights being used and loved by teenagers, toddlers and those who live in basement apartments. It sells for about $180.

About the Author

Vicky Sanderson writes a weekly Hot Home Products column, which focuses on home improvement, decor, entertaining items and housewares, for The Toronto Star. Her widely-read daily blog, On the House, which can be found on www.yourhome.ca, keeps readers up to date on new products and developing trends. Vicky also delivers standing-room-only seminars at Toronto-area home shows. Funny and informative, she frequently shares her tips, tricks and trends on such media outlets as Canada AM, the Steven and Chris Show, CHCH Morning Live, Breakfast Television, EZ-Rock and CBC Radio.

by Guest

With summer shortly upon us, and Father’s Day just around the corner it’s a great time to be reminded about home-reno safety. It’s the time of year when many fathers are on the cusp of getting (or getting out) tons of tools, renovation gear and outdoor products and ready to tackle home projects after being cooped up all winter. These home-reno dads (and divas too) may likely have toddlers and small children around them watching what mom and dad are doing. It’s the perfect time to set a safety precedent while they are doing their home repairs!

DIY’er are most likely making their “to do” lists – and checking it twice – ready to tackle the home and yard projects that have been put off all winter. Itching to get out the circular saw, nail gun or drill, what most DIY’ers often forget to grab is the important safety gear that should be top of mind before flicking the “on” switch or getting started on the project.

For years it’s been “drilled” into our minds to wear seat belts in the car or a helmet when on a bike ride, yet when it comes to wearing protective eye gear or ear muffs when using dangerous and loud equipment like a saw or running a compressor, weekend warriors have an invincibility attitude when it comes to home repairs.

Too many times even the simplest home project go awry, most of which could have been easily prevented with some sort of safety gear. What DIYers fail to remember is that no project is too small – it can be the smallest piece of wood that can puncture an eye, a loud sound that could damage hearing or miniscule dust particles that could affect a respiratory system.

Wh’Eye Not?

Do you like to watch the beautiful sunset? See your kids play at the park? Well, something as simple as throwing on a pair of safety glasses* can ensure a lifetime of sunsets and smiles from loved ones. From mowing the lawn to cutting baseboards your eyes are valuable – why not protect them?

Say What?

The Canadian Hard of Hearing Association says one in 10 people in Canada have some degree of hearing loss, and for people over 50, the number increases to one in five. Why increase your chances of early hearing loss simply because you didn’t want to throw in a pair of plugs or wear sound muffs*? Toss on a pair of so you can drown out the lawnmower or table saw in style!

Lung-evity

Often home projects involve some use of toxic fumes like paint, adhesives, sawdust and other nasty particles that will weave their way into your system as you work – it’s as simple as throwing on a mask to prevent this from happening – not to mention looking super cool while you work! Become a home-renovation fashionista in your multi-purpose respirator*– ok you might look more like Darth Vader but your kids will think you are the best!

Other tips to consider when home safety is involved:

· Before you start a project prepare – know what you are going to need in terms of tools and make sure you have the appropriate safety gear on hand to compliment the project

· Remember to set an example – your kids are little sponges – show them that you care for them by caring for yourself and make it a standard to be safe

· Remember that you aren’t just a handyman doing some work around the house –you are also a sibling, friend, spouse, parent, or supervisor and those “someone’s” are counting on your safety

· Learn about the materials you are going to be using for your project, and the best way to work with them

· Make sure you concentrate and stay focused when working with tools or machinery – even a moment’s distraction could lead to harm

· Don’t get in “over your head” – if the project is too large or too complicated for your skill level, either take a course to upgrade your skills, or trust in the experts

· Don’t take your health and safety for granted; all it takes is a simple slip or error

Safety Gear Giveaway!

Interested in winning some great safety gear from 3M? The first person to comment on this post will receive 3M’s Rivet Safety Eye Wear and Professional Ear Muffs (a total prize pack of $60)!

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*For more information on 3M safety products such as: 3M’s AO Safety Sunglasses (a division of 3M) ($29.99), 3M’s AO Professional Ear Muffs ($31.99), MP3 Muffs ($59.99), and the 3M Household Multi-purpose Respirator – $41.99, visit http://www.3m.com/intl/ca.

About the Company

Established in 1951, 3M Canada Company was one of the first international subsidiaries opened by 3M and remains one of the largest. 3M Canada’s head office and original manufacturing site is in London, Ontario where approximately 1,000 of the company’s 1,950 employees work. Other Ontario plants are located in Toronto, Brockville, and Perth with one in Morden, Manitoba. Sales offices are located in major cities nationwide and a national service network supports customers.

What? National Home Show
When? Feb. 20 – March 1, 2009!
Where? The Direct Energy Centre, Exhibition Place, 100 Princes’ Blvd.

The largest home show in Toronto is coming up next week with a plethora of home improvement and decor products, accessories, ideas, and celebrity guest appearances.

What to Expect at the Show: (info provided by www.NationalHomeShow.com – visit the official show site for more details)

* The Dream Home – Built by Probuilt by Michael Upshall and styled by Janette Ewen.

* Toronto Star Dream Gardens

* tySTYLE presented by Toshiba

* Colin and Justin, hosts of HGTV’s Home Heist (appearance courtesy of Penguin Books)

* Carson Arthur, host of HGTV’s Green Force

* Scott McGillivray, host of HGTV’s Income Property

* Cheryl Torrenueva, host of HGTV’s Home Heist and Restaurant Makeover

* Corbin Tomaszeski, appearing on HGTV’s Restaurant Makeover

* Igor Shamraychuk, appearing on HGTV’s Restaurant Makeover

Show Date & Hours

Friday, February 20th
11 am to 9pm

Saturday, February 21st
10am to 9pm

Sunday, February 22nd
10am to 6pm

Monday, February 23rd to Friday, February 27th
11 am to 9pm

Saturday, February 28th
10am to 9pm

Sunday, March 1st
10am to 6pm

Admission

Adults: $15.00 (at the door)
Adults: $12.00 (online)
Seniors (65+): $11.00
Seniors: $8.00 (online)
Youth 13 – 17 years: $11.00
Youth 13 – 17 years: $8.00 (online)
Children 12 and under: FREE

* Tickets can be purchased online or at the door. Buy online and save (use promo code:RENOVATION) !

Show Venue & Location

The Direct Energy Centre,
Exhibition Place,
100 Princes’ Blvd.
Toronto ON
416-263-3000

Website:

www.NationalHomeShow.com

It’s hard to believe that summer has gone by so quickly and it’s already time to start thinking about ways to warm up our homes.  Well, there’s more than one way of thinking when it comes to that.  Yes, insulation, duct cleaning, leaf raking might be what immediately comes to mind, but Fall is also the perfect opportunity to find other ways to bring warmth into the home.  Where to find some such ideas?  Home Shows of course.

And there are a plethora of them coming this month.  One I’ll be sure to check out in my neck of the woods is the Toronto Fall Home Show from September 18th to 21st at the Better Living Center, Exhibition place (Tickets are $12 for an adult). (Gee, I hope I can get those Tiny Tom donuts).  Other than checking out some cool gadgets, home luxuries, and the like, there are some fun and interesting demonstrations and shows.  As my furniture is all Ikea, one show I’ll be sure to check out is “interior design and lifestyle expert” Janette Ewen’s “Do-It-Yourself High-End Looks for Next to Nothing”.  I’m also excited about some of the cooking demonstrations – mmm, award winning chef, Christopher Ennew’s Spa food – because what’s more homespun than home cookin’?

Some of the other September 2008 Canadian home shows that weekend of the 18th to the 21st are: the Ottawa Capital Fall Home Show from September 18-21 (only $10 for unlimited re-entry), Victoria, B.C.’s 2008 Fall Home Show featuring Colin and Justin of HGTV’s “How Not To Decorate”, and the Calgary Home & Interior Design Show‘s own multiple HGTV hosts.

Stateside, there are undoubtabely a bunch, like the Orlando Home Show Sept. 19th -21st boasting Ty Pennington of Extreme Makeover: Home Edition (new season starts Sept. 27th) fame as their spokesperson, but who’s not on the actual agenda.  On the 26th – 28th there’s the Remodeling & Home Decor Show in Washington, D. C with a line-up of celebrity shows et al. and also a Dog Docks event.  That’s right, Dog Docks, the sporting event of dock jumping, where doggies compete for greatest distance or height jumper.

Sounds like Home Shows have a little something for everyone.

(Photo of Jannette Ewan from www.fallhomeshow.com)

Having grown up in a house without air conditioning, I know what it’s like to sweat through hot nights and loud fans. This was a time before the efficient, quiet fans now common; back in the day, we put loud, plane-propeller-size units in the window and on the floor hoping for a bit of air movement, just enough to pass out.

Luckily, I’ve found better way to keep cool. I still don’t have air condition, mind you, but I like it that way; besides, I’ve found a more efficient, less energy-taxing solution: the ceiling fan. Installed the right way, in the right place, these inexpensive and easy-to-install devices will keep you cool and save you cash.

Unlike energy-hogging A/C units, electric ceiling fans don’t actually cool the air; rather, they move it around, which helps evaporate moisture, on your skin and on surfaces in your home, making things feel cooler. Ceiling fans also help draw up warm air, mixing it with cooler air for more moderate room temperatures, so you get gentle warmth without the frigid, synthetic feel of air conditioning. (In winter, switch blade direction and the fan will push down warm air rather than draw it up.)

Installation

Putting up a fan is as easy as installing a ceiling light—right? Not quite. Screwing into the existing junction box might not provide enough stability. After all, some of these fans weigh more than 30 pounds standing still; add in the pressure and vibration created by the spinning blades and you’re left with a dangerous spinning blade—to say nothing of an eyesore.

Instead of affixing directly into the existing junction box, attach the fan to something—a beam—that will securely handle the weight and motion of the fan. Of course, it will need to be hooked up for power, so if you’re at all unsure how to safely connect, especially if your fan is also a light, hire an electrician to come in for a quick, inexpensive inspection.

Right place, right fan

Ceiling fans aren’t one-size-fits-all; there are ceiling fans for every type of decor; ceiling fans operable by remote control; fans designed for sloped ceilings; fans with blades as big as canoe paddles—you name it, it exists. Unless you want to recreate the plane-blade scene in Raiders of the Lost Ark, the first consideration here is ceiling height. If your ceiling is less than eight feet, it’s too low for a ceiling fan. Also, the blade span should be no closer than two feet from the wall to allow for airflow.

The final consideration is noise. Put it this way, you could spend $25, but do you really want to live with a fan worthy of the exhaust system at KFC?

This Sunday is Father’s Day, and while not every dad pines for tools, nothing says “I love you, Mr. Fix-it” quite like a new tool.

But rather than getting him a tool he won’t use or that’s beyond his abilities—hey, let’s not embarrass him on his one day to be king—look for a simple-yet-cool tool. Here are the Top 3 slightly ridiculous, over-the-top tools for Father’s Day:

Titanium Hammer: You’ve heard him mention “titanium” in reference to golf clubs, but this lightweight yet tough-as-nail material is not limited to sports equipment. This 15-ounce hammer feels as light as a squash racquet but packs a punch. Take a close look and you’ll notice a few special features, including a side nail puller and a magnetic nail starter. But the best part of this gift is you can tell him, “Honey, this hammer has 10 times less recoil than steel.” Go ahead, tell him that.

Solar Robotic Lawn Mower: When I was a younger I wanted an Omnibot 2000, a robotic servant that could carry drinks on a tray. While I never got one, I am pretty sure it was pure novelty anyway.

That said, robots have come a long way since ’83. Husqvarna, best known for chainsaws, recently unveiled its Automower, a fully automatic mower that operates itself by following a path set out by an invisible wire. What’s more, this mower runs on a rechargeable, solar-powered battery; when the mower require more power, it simply drives itself to the charger and basks in the sun till it’s time to get back to work.

SawStop Table Saw: There’s nothing funny about losing a finger to a saw blade, and yet finger-cutting accidents are common whether your dad’s a pro or Mr. Butterfingers. Luckily, there is a solution in SawStop, an electronic detection system that detects human flesh in a millisecond, stopping the blade as soon as contact is made. The website features a video showing what happens when a hot dog hits the blade. Now that’s progress.

This past Saturday was deck teardown day at my parents’ house. They’re replacing their 20-year-old wooden deck with a larger version, and called on me to remove the built-in benches and floorboards while retaining—not smashing—the underneath base. Since the deck was built in 1988, the long, four-inch nails used to secure the floorboards were rusty and impossible to pull out, which meant removing the 12-foot boards without damaging the deck base would require hefty and time-consuming work.

But that’s when I discovered something: building a new deck can be fun work, but tearing down an old, decrepit deck is even more of a joy, especially with brawny, well-designed demolition tools. While I don’t often write tool reviews (leave that to the advertisers), Stanley’s line of multi-functional demolition bars—especially the 30-inch, 8.5-pound version turned gruelling, prisoner-worthy work into something much more manageable, even fun.

Forged from a single piece of high-carbon steel, these four-in-one tools feature an oversized striking face coupled with a serrated extracting claw perfectly sized to grab two-inch-thick lumber. But it was the tool’s pry-bar end that really came in handy; I’d wedge the tool between the joist and floorboards and, using my weight, pop up the board.

The shorter, lighter versions (15 inch and 18 inch) were useful for more finicky work, especially around corners and along the house wall, and for prying nails. While I certainly don’t need all three in my toolkit, the longest version certainly found a permanent place in my demolition line-up.

OK, so earlier in the week we covered the beginning stages of an exterior paint job. If you’re still with us and actually want to go through with this grueling work, then read on because there are a few more steps involved.

Step 3: Washing, Sanding and Priming

Once the old paint is removed, fire up the ole power washer for a quick deep cleaning. As the name implies, these washers are extremely powerful, strong enough to rip apart wood, so don’t set it to high and start blasting. The idea is to remove any surface dirt and leftover paint. Once finished, allow two or three days for the wood to completely dry before sanding.

Sanding smoothes the surface and removes any loose, splintering material, which is especially important if you’re going to be walking on the wood. For small surfaces such as windowpanes, a palm sander (electric or manual) works well; for larger spots, use a random orbit sander (rentable). To avoid clogging up the machine, start with coarse, 100-grit sandpaper, moving on to a finer grit (120-grit) as you sand down.

Once sanded, wood needs to be primed to protect against moisture. There are two main primer types: alkyd primer, also called “oil base,” is usually used on wood trim and siding, treated lumber and metal surfaces. Alkyd primers are good for blocking stains, can be diluted using mineral spirits, and usually dry within a few hours or overnight. Apply with a natural bristle brush.

Acrylic, or latex primer, is similar to alkyd primer and can be used underneath any type of paint, even oil-based paint. Unlike alkyd primer, acrylic primer can be diluted using water and—the real benefit—has a reduced drying time, about four hours max.

Step 4: Picking Paint

Finally, time to get painting. But what’s better for exteriors, oil or latex? The answer used to be oil for its durability, but the quality of latex paints (and primers) has improved to the point of equality, with latex leading the pack for its ease of use and better environmental properties. Moreover, some contractors believe oil paint chokes wood, not allowing the material to breath and making it prone to moisture problems whereas latex allows moisture to pass through without causing the paint to pull away from the wood and peel or crack.

I’ve been using the word “paint” but really I’m talking about paint or stain, and when it comes to exterior wood, stain is usually your best bet for two reasons: one, it allows for the natural beauty of the wood to shine through, showing off the grain patters; but even more importantly, stain tends to penetrate deeper into wood whereas paint just coats the outside. Unlike paint, however, oil-based stain tends to stand up to exterior abuse better than latex-based stain, but if you prep the wood properly, the difference between the two is negligible.

The combination of stained wood with painted accents (windowsills, trim, and so on) is timeless, so consider adding some splashes of colour.

As for choosing a brush, there are two basic types: those made with natural bristles, used for applying alkyd or oil-based paint; and those with synthetic bristles, which can be used to apply all types of paint. As for quality, look for tapered ends (the centre bristles should be slightly longer than those at the edge to help lay down the paint smoothly. Also, choose a brush that is at least half-again as long as it is wide (e.g., the bristles on a two-inch-wide brush should be at least three inches in length).

For size, a four-inch brush with tightly packed bristles, about ¼-inch thick, is best for exterior painting, and an angled one-inch sash brush is great for painting trim and window frames. Lastly, don’t skimp on quality. Well-made brushes create a deep, smooth finish that naturally fends off mildew and dirt.

Step 5: Are you sure you want to do this?

Unlike indoor painting, exterior jobs require a lot of work (especially if you’re up on a ladder all day) and require about a week’s worth of dry days and nights. Depending on the size of the job, scraping, sanding, priming and painting can take up to a week, with three or four days of drying time.

Depending on where you live, the best outdoor painting weather is spring or early fall. The middle of summer might seem dry, but the hot, humid weather creates bad conditions for the paint—it simply won’t dry in high humidity; and in extreme heat, paint will dry too fast, causing uneven drying and even wood warping— to say nothing of the painter.

If it’s a small job, like refinishing a deck or painting a garage, this is certainly doable for most seasoned DIYers; if it’s painting an entire house, hire a pro and don’t waste your holidays.

When I was a kid one of my summer jobs was painting and staining decks and cottages. I’d arrive in my little tin boat and spend a day scraping off peeling paint and stain, maybe sanding a few rough edges before slapping on a new coat of finish. Two days work, easy cash. After all, what’s so hard about painting, right? Pick your colour and get rolling, or brushing or spraying. Done and done — if you can make the decision.

But not quite. I bet most of the exterior paint jobs lasted a season or two—at best; more likely, the finish was coming off before Thanksgiving closedown. Unless you want to repaint every year or be left with a spotty, craggy finish, exterior painting requires both mental and physical prep work, as Katie at Besotted Cottage found out. Here’s the scoop.

Step 1: Wood Inspection

Before you argue with your spouse over which hue of green best matches the dog’s fur, trek down to the hardware store and purchase a $30 moisture meter. These simple-to-use (think of those BBQ fork thermometers) devices check the moisture level of the wood. If the wood is too wet, paint won’t adhere properly. As a general rule, if the wood has more than 16 per cent moisture, it shouldn’t be painted. If this is the case, wait until later in the summer, when the wood is dryer from summer sun.

Step 2: Scrape

Scraping is perhaps the most straightforward task. For really loose paint, a simple flanged scraper works well; for harder-to-remove surfaces, use a sharp hook-type scraper. Scraping quickly dulls the blade, so if you’re working with a large area, keep checking the blade to make sure it’s not dull, and keep scraping until the old paint is removed.

For really stubborn areas, you can use an electric heat gun, but make sure you’re wearing a proper face mask to prevent against inhaling dangerous fumes from old oil and lead paint. As well, be aware that a heat gun can burn the wood, so keep water on hand to douse any flames.

Also, a word of warning: don’t fiddle around with sandblasting or chemical paint removers. These are professional-level tools that can easily ruin the wood if you don’t know what you’re doing. If the job requires this level of removal, consider hiring a pro.

Up next in Part 2: Washing, Sanding, Priming and, finally, Painting!

Somewhere along the way, I’ve developed a reputation for barbecuing food; king of the grill, fire champ, if you catch my drift. It seems wherever I go, I’m expected to drop my drink and take care of the ‘cueing, while everyone else sits around relaxing and watching me like I’m some master chef. Not that I mind, so long as everything’s in perfect order. A champ cannot perform well in bad conditions.

Problems always arise with out-of-tune grills, barbecues with hot and cold spots, low heat, flare-ups or just plain dirty grilling surfaces. But during the outdoor season, the barbecue acts as your kitchen, and how long could you put up with an oven that didn’t work? People live with these issues as if there’s nothing that can be done, but barbecues, like all tools, require yearly maintenance to keep working at top form. That said, the fixes, like everything BBQ, are easy.

Before I continue, I should clarify: I am talking about gas-powered barbecues, not the traditional hibachi or other charcoal cookers. If you’re a traditionalist and consider gas a sin, skip this lesson. For the rest of us, read on.

Step 1: The Burner

Hot and cold spots, flare-ups and other griller eccentrics are almost always related to the burner, the griller’s engine. Depending on how often you use your grill (year-round for me, 52% of other Canadians, according to a recent study by the makers of the fine Weber grills), it eventually burn out and need replacing.

Simply lift off the grills, pull aside the coals or “flavour wave” and lift out the burner. Not all burners are the same size or fit, so wrap it inside a small bag (so it doesn’t make everything dirty) and take it into a hardware store, where you can show it to the guy and get a replacement. For about $40 you’ll have, essentially, a new ‘cue.

Step 2: Spiders and Rust

Spiders and rust … sounds like an Iron Maiden album. New barbecues come equipped with “spider guards” that prevent these small critters from entering the venturi tubes (the metal connectors that feed gas to the burner). This tends to happen over the winter, with spiders and their webs, plus other dirt and debris, clogging up the pipes.

While you’re at the hardware store, pick up a $4 venturi brush, which is basically a long, skinny pipe cleaner with a bristled end. Then simply push the brush through the pipes till they’re clean and free.

Still in a cleaning frame of mind? Now’s the time to get rid of any rust buildup around the venturi tubes, burners and grates. Fine steel wool (#000 or #0000) and some light machine oil should get rid of any surface rust; if the decay runs deeper, you might need to replace a part, but here we’re usually talking about the burner, which should be replaced every two to three years anyway. Same goes for the rubber gas hose similar to the hoses under your car hood; if it’s cracked, replace it.

Rusty propane tanks should not be tinkered with. As a general rule, these tanks last about eight to 10 years. (Quick tip: get two tanks so that if one empties while you’re cooking, you can quickly hook up the full tank without ruining the meal.)

Step 3: Add new coals

Most gas barbecues don’t require charcoal coals because they come with what’s often referred to as a “flavour wave,” which reflects and directs flames while creating smoke from dripping juices and oils. However, that said, you can certainly add charcoal coals to your ‘cue, just make sure you replace them every season or so.

Besides coals, you can also play around with pieces of soaked wood (apple wood smoked ribs, anyone?), such as hickory. Use your own, or buy specially soaked shavings from a specialty food store.

Step 4: You’re Done

That’s right, there is no Step 4. See, I told you, barbecuing is easy living done well, or in my case, medium rare.